142 | DESTINATION GUIDES Lisbon Portugal DIALLING CODE +351 CURRENCY € FLY FROM Barcelona, Basel- Mulhouse, Berlin, Bristol, Edinburgh, Geneva, Liverpool, London (LGW, LTN), Lyon, Madeira, Madrid, Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG), Rome (FCO), Toulouse FROM THE AIRPORT TAXI SINCE 2005 Pre-book your taxi at easyJet.com. A local taxi costs €20. The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes. Tickets: €3.50. Visit the Europcar desk for special easyJet rates. BON APPETIT UP TO €15 Kaffeehaus (3 Rua Anchieta, tel: 21 095 6825) A Viennese treat in the heart of Lisbon. Just around the corner from the São Carlos Theatre, this elegant yet laidback café serves Austrian specialities, among other dishes. UP TO €30 Cervejaria da Trindade (20C Rua Nova da Trindade, tel: 21 342 3506) This big, clattery beer hall specialises in seafood and, yes, beer. Situated in a 12th-century convent, there is lots to look at, too – the walls are adorned with thousands of beautiful tiles. Open daily until 2am. UP TO €50 100 Maneiras (35 Rua do Teixeira, tel: 21 099 0475) One of Lisbon’s most talented chefs, the Yugoslav Ljumomir Stanisic, has recently moved his highly successful restaurant from Cascais to the Bairro Alto. The prices are now signifi cantly lower, but without sacrifi cing on quality. Expect the freshest ingredients and a constantly changing and creative menu. EXCLUSIVE Cipriani (Lapa Palace Hotel, 4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira, Lapa, tel: 21 394 9401) This elegant dining room, housed in a 19th-century palace set amid romantic gardens, serves a luxurious menu that is predominantly Italian but usually includes a Portuguese dish or two. There’s an excellent wine list and impeccable service, too. AFTER DARK LOW KEY Supercalifragilistic (98 Rua dos Remédios) A far cry from the ugly tiles and Formica tables of the old-style joints, this is one of the new breed of Alfama bars. Expect cocktails, wines, interesting bar snacks, a menu featuring inventive interpretations of Portuguese classics, and a youthful crowd. Open 6pm–2am. LIVE MUSIC Clube de Fado (94 Rua São João da Praça, tel: 21 885 2704) An aristocrat among fado houses, this is the place to hear the city’s best professional fado – Lisbon blues – in a lovely old building. LATE & LIVELY Mini Mercado (67 Avenida Dom Carlos I, Santos, tel: 21 895 5957) An intimate, cabaret-style venue, Mini Mercado is popular with locals who come to hear hip hop and the occasional live act. Doors open at 11pm, and the night goes on till late. THIS MONTH SHOP With over 140 shops Freeport Leisure centre is an outlet that will please the most discerning shopper. In nearby Alcochete, this is the place to fi nd new designer-wear to take home. It’s a 40-minute drive out of Lisbon, but there are regular shuttle buses (freeport.pt). SEE From 22 November, the English Theatre presents The Importance of Being Earnest (10 Rua da Estrela, tel: 21 396 1946, lisbonplayers.com. pt). Alternatively, the Columbian diva Shakira will be at the Atlantic Pavilion on 21 November (pavilhaoatlantico.pt). GO The Alfama district is steeped in history and can claim to be the true heart of the city. While still highly traditional in many ways, this village-like maze of traffi c-free alleyways and steps has undergone a transformation in the last few years and is now home to a number of trendy bars. It can only be explored on foot, after alighting tram No. 28. ESCAPE An interesting day out is a visit to the fortifi cations built in the early 1800s on the orders of Wellington, to stop Napoleon in his Peninsula Campaign. A pleasant trip might be to Arruda dos Vinhos, where there are a couple of excellent restaurants (O Fuso and O Nazareth). Two of the forts, Forte do Carvalho and Forte do Cego, are well signposted from the town, which is about an hour from Lisbon. NO WAY! The Águas Livres aqueduct, built in the mid-18th century, amazingly survived the devastating 1755 earthquake. Jonathan Weightman HOTEL LUTECIA ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ The smart, urban and modern Hotel Lutecia offers the perfect place to stay and relax after exploring the city. Breakfast Included. From €89, book at hotels.easyJet.com. Liverpool UK DIALLING CODE +44 CURRENCY £ FLY FROM Alicante, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belfast (BFS), Berlin, Bodrum, Bordeaux, Brussels, Dubrovnik, Faro, Fuerteventura, Geneva, Grenoble, Ibiza, Innsbruck, Isle of Man, Jersey, Krakow, Lanzarote, Lisbon, Lyon, Madrid, Majorca, Málaga, Malta, Menorca, Naples, Nice, Paris (CDG), Rhodes, Salzburg, Tallinn FROM THE AIRPORT TAXI SINCE 1997 Pre-book your taxi at easyJet.com. A local taxi costs £15. The 500 departs every 30 minutes for the city centre. Tickets: £2.60. Visit the Europcar desk for special easyJet rates. BON APPETIT UP TO €15 Egg Café (2nd Floor, 16–18 Newington, tel: 0151 707 2755) It’s worth the climb up two fl ights of stairs for Egg’s happy, welcoming ambience. Take your own wine (there’s a small corkage charge) to accompany the top-value vegetarian food. Many of the dishes, including the aubergine curry, are vegan, and they also serve fabulous, home-baked cakes. UP TO €30 Salt House Tapas (Salt House, Hanover Street, tel: 0151 706 0092) The service is outstanding at this very modern tapas bar in a characterful listed building, once the home of the Archdeacon of Liverpool. Look out for the acorn-fed Iberico hams, roasted butternut squash with goats curd and spiced almond crumbs, plus good Spanish wines and sherries. UP TO €50 The Side Door (29A Hope Street, tel: 0151 709 3924) Located in the city’s so-called cultural quarter, The Side Door is friendly and intimate, and merits an entry in the latest Good Food Guide. The bistro menu puts emphasis on locally supplied produce and encompasses delights like slowcooked hake fi llet with potatoes and peppers. EXCLUSIVE The Swan Inn (Springfi eld Road, Aughton, Ormskirk, tel: 01695 421 450) Celebrity chef Marco Pierre White promises “affordable glamour” at this, one of his newest restaurants, amid crisp white linen and swish surroundings, just 30 minutes by car, or a 20-minute walk from Town Green Station. A brasserie-style menu blends traditional pub fare with English- French cooking.
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