november-2010
november-2010
november-2010
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178 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
2007<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The CAT train<br />
goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gigerl<br />
(3 Rauhensteingasse,<br />
tel: 01 513 4431) Very<br />
handily located near St<br />
Stephen’s, Gigerl rustles<br />
up whopping schnitzels<br />
and salads amid<br />
Viennese décor.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zum Schwarzen<br />
Kameel Restaurant (5<br />
Bognergasse, tel: 01 533<br />
8844) Something of a<br />
Viennese Institution, “At<br />
the Black Camel” seems<br />
stuck in a very congenial<br />
pre-1914 time warp, but<br />
that’s the way the locals<br />
like it. The adjoining wine<br />
bar is a perfect place to<br />
kick things off.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Prückel (24 Stubenring,<br />
tel: 01 512 6115) This<br />
legendary café, with its<br />
ice-cool 1950s décor,<br />
seems ideally suited to a<br />
John Le Carré spy thriller.<br />
Waiters in immaculate<br />
black tie keep things<br />
defi antly old school.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Loop<br />
(26–27 Lerchenfelder<br />
Gurtel, tel: 01 402 4195)<br />
Clubbers in search of the<br />
grittier side of Vienna’s<br />
nightlife might head for<br />
the Gurtel, the sweeping<br />
overland railway beneath<br />
which many impresarios<br />
have made a home. Loop<br />
dishes up funk, hip hop,<br />
house, reggae and more.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Bordering<br />
the hip Naschmarkt,<br />
Anna Stein offers a<br />
quirky mix of trinkets,<br />
with everything from<br />
accessories to books<br />
and CDs. There’s also<br />
a café on hand (21<br />
Kettenbrückengasse).<br />
SEE Throw yourself<br />
into the giddy sounds<br />
of klezmer at this, the<br />
seventh incarnation of<br />
KlezMore, which sees<br />
outfi ts from across<br />
Europe and beyond<br />
descend on Vienna.<br />
Catch the sounds<br />
buzzing through the city<br />
from 6–21 November<br />
(klezmore-vienna.at).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The curious journey<br />
made by an elephant<br />
from Lisbon to Vienna in<br />
1551 inspired one of this<br />
year’s most acclaimed<br />
novels. The Elephant’s<br />
Journey, by the late<br />
Nobel Prize-winning<br />
author José Saramago.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com<br />
Zagreb<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
NEW FROM<br />
<strong>2010</strong><br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
200HRK.<br />
The airport bus<br />
runs to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: 30HRK<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Kapuciner (6 Kaptol,<br />
tel: 01 481 0487) This is<br />
popular with students.<br />
Cathedral views, free<br />
Wi-Fi and tasty pizzas<br />
– try the spicy kulen<br />
sausage topping.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zinfandel’s Restaurant<br />
(1 Mihanoviceva, tel: 01<br />
456 6644) An elegant<br />
dining option, Zinfandel’s<br />
is fi ttingly housed in<br />
Zagreb’s fi nest hotel. The<br />
Esplanade used to be a<br />
favourite of passengers<br />
on the Orient Express<br />
and today the service<br />
and modern cuisine<br />
attract a new generation<br />
of diners.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gradska<br />
Kavana (9 Trg Bana<br />
Josipa Jelacica) There<br />
is no better place to<br />
take in the action on the<br />
city’s square. Savour<br />
a cold beer or coffee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hemingway (1<br />
Tuskanac, tel: 01 483<br />
4958) Dress to impress<br />
but you will probably<br />
still be scorned at by<br />
the chic staff. Cocktails<br />
are expensive by local<br />
standards but worth it.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Croats<br />
claim to have invented<br />
the tie, and at Croata<br />
you can fi nd some sexy<br />
numbers (13 Kaptol, tel:<br />
01 481 4600).<br />
GO Upper Town is the<br />
most beautiful corner<br />
of town and the most<br />
historic. Admire St<br />
Mark’s Church as well as<br />
the views over the city.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Zagreb-born Janica<br />
Kostelic went on to lift<br />
four skiing gold medals<br />
in two Olympic Games.<br />
Robin McKelvie/<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
SHERATON<br />
ZAGREB<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This fi rst-class hotel’s<br />
deluxe rooms are<br />
spacious, elegant<br />
and feature stylish<br />
furniture. Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€65, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Zürich<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
1998<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs CHF60.<br />
Trains make the<br />
journey to the city<br />
centre every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: CHF6.20<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Adler’s<br />
Swiss Chuchi (10<br />
Rosengasse, tel: 044<br />
266 9696) Traditional,<br />
cosy Swiss chalet-style<br />
restaurant serving local<br />
specialities such as<br />
raclette potatoes with<br />
melted cheese and<br />
pickled gherkins.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Baerengasse (25<br />
Bahnhofstrasse, tel:<br />
044 210 0808) This<br />
stylish restaurant is<br />
set inside a bank and is<br />
partly owned by Dieter<br />
Meier from Swiss pop<br />
group Yello. The menu<br />
refl ects his love for<br />
Argentina and is famous<br />
for its tasty, high-quality<br />
grilled steaks and his<br />
own brand of wine, Puro.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bellavista<br />
(7 Ramistrasse, tel:<br />
043 268 5300) Perfect<br />
for an early aperitif or<br />
an afternoon coffee,<br />
Bellavista has a casual<br />
but chic décor and is a<br />
slice of real Italian style<br />
in the city centre.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Helvetia Bar<br />
(1 Stauffacherquai,<br />
tel: 044 297 9999) A<br />
charismatic bar that<br />
serves a hip, friendly<br />
local crowd. Especially<br />
busy on Friday evenings<br />
for post-work drinks.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Vestibule is<br />
a hip, high-end women’s<br />
fashion boutique<br />
which has just opened<br />
a new store at St<br />
Petersgasse. It carries<br />
Swiss labels, which<br />
often include chic<br />
new brands not on<br />
sale anywhere else.<br />
Saturday afternoon<br />
here is fi lled with the<br />
who’s who of Zürich<br />
(13 Spiegelgasse,<br />
vestibule.ch).<br />
SEE Fashion Days<br />
Zürich is a huge new<br />
international fashion<br />
event incorporating<br />
the Swiss Textiles Award<br />
together with shows<br />
from leading national<br />
and international<br />
fashion designers<br />
(3–6 November,<br />
charlesvoegelefashiondays.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
St Peter’s Church<br />
boasts Europe’s largest<br />
church clock face, which<br />
is 8.7m in diameter.<br />
Celeste Neill-Duvoisin
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