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164 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Paris<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir, Athens,<br />

Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Berlin, Brest, Bristol,<br />

Budapest, Casablanca,<br />

Catania, Copenhagen,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Dubrovnik,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Helsinki, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

Ljubljana, London (LTN),<br />

Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Marrakech, Milan<br />

(MXP, LIN), Mykonos,<br />

Naples, Newcastle, Nice,<br />

Olbia, Palermo, Pisa,<br />

Porto, Prague, Rome<br />

(CIA), Split, Tangier,<br />

Toulouse, Venice, Zagreb<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

ORLY<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

2002<br />

Pre-book your<br />

taxi at easyJet.<br />

com. A local taxi<br />

costs €35.<br />

The Orly bus<br />

stops at Place<br />

Denfert-Rochereau.<br />

Tickets: €6.40.<br />

The RER B4<br />

goes to<br />

Châtelet. Trains run<br />

from 6am–11pm.<br />

Tickets: €9.85.<br />

The C2 line takes<br />

you straight to<br />

Invalides. Tickets:<br />

€7.60 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

ROISSY-CHARLES<br />

DE GAULLE<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

The Roissy Bus<br />

stops at Opéra.<br />

Tickets: €9.10.<br />

Take the RER B3<br />

to Gare du Nord.<br />

Tickets: €8.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Des Crêpes et des<br />

Cailles (13 Rue de<br />

la Butte-aux-Cailles,<br />

tel: 01 4581 6869)<br />

Charming crêperie<br />

with red-chequered<br />

tablecloths right at<br />

the heart of the<br />

laidback Butte-aux-<br />

Cailles district. Watch<br />

the crêpes being made<br />

in front of you in the<br />

tiny dining room, then<br />

eat in or take away.<br />

UP TO €30 Bread &<br />

Roses (25 Rue Boissy<br />

d’Anglas, tel: 01 4742<br />

4000) A gourmet deli,<br />

bakery and tearoom<br />

specialising in organic,<br />

high-quality products.<br />

Lunch and dinner<br />

dishes include lobster<br />

salad, crab and baby<br />

artichoke, caviar-fortwo<br />

with eggs and<br />

warm potatoes. It’s<br />

famous for its desserts<br />

such as cheesecake,<br />

sticky toffee pudding,<br />

and Tartelette with<br />

Autumn Fruits. The<br />

prices may seem high,<br />

but the prime peoplewatching<br />

opportunities<br />

make<br />

it worth it.<br />

UP TO €50 Le<br />

Grand Colbert<br />

(2 Rue Vivienne, tel:<br />

01 4286 8788) A<br />

traditional, turn-ofthe-century<br />

brasserie<br />

just above the chic<br />

Palais Royal with<br />

formal but friendly<br />

waiters and a bustling<br />

atmosphere at lunch<br />

and dinner. It gained<br />

international fame<br />

when it appeared in<br />

the Diane Keaton/<br />

Jack Nicholson fi lm,<br />

Something’s Gotta<br />

Give, but still attracts<br />

local shopkeepers<br />

and bankers from the<br />

Bourse district. Also<br />

open for afternoon<br />

tea, with an incredible<br />

hot chocolate<br />

on the menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Davé<br />

(12 Rue de Richelieu,<br />

tel: 01 4261 4948)<br />

It’s a tricky business<br />

getting a table at<br />

this famous low-lit<br />

Chinese restaurant<br />

near the Palais Royal,<br />

HÔTEL DE<br />

CASTIGLIONE<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

In the diplomacy area<br />

and surrounded by<br />

the most prestigious<br />

shops in Paris. This<br />

hotel is the perfect<br />

place to unwind.<br />

From €140, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

unless you’re wellknown<br />

in the fashion<br />

or entertainment<br />

industries. Dress to<br />

the nines and you may<br />

be able to charm the<br />

diminutive host Davé<br />

into letting you in.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Lizard<br />

Lounge (18 Rue du<br />

Bourg-Tibourg, tel:<br />

01 4272 8134)<br />

Cocktails and a<br />

low-key, friendly<br />

atmosphere attract<br />

a young, international<br />

crowd to this bar in<br />

the Marais. Head<br />

downstairs to the<br />

second DJ bar for<br />

an extended happy<br />

hour and dancing<br />

until the wee hours.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Petit Journal Saint<br />

Michel (71 Boulevard<br />

St Michel, tel: 01 4326<br />

2859) Jazz fans can<br />

enjoy live concerts<br />

from Monday–<br />

Saturday in this casual<br />

Latin Quarter hangout<br />

near the Jardins<br />

du Luxembourg. The<br />

cover fee includes a<br />

drink, or dine in the<br />

restaurant and get<br />

free entry to the<br />

concerts thrown in for<br />

free with the fab food.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Les<br />

Filles de Paris (57<br />

Rue de Quincampoix,<br />

tel: 01 4271 7220)<br />

This laidback and<br />

inclusive nightclub<br />

recently opened<br />

near the Centre<br />

Pompidou and plays<br />

eclectic electronic<br />

music to a twentythirtysomethings<br />

crowd of all<br />

orientations until<br />

dawn. It has karaoke<br />

and burlesque<br />

shows too, and the<br />

restaurant is open late.<br />

Favela Chic (18<br />

Rue du Faubourg du<br />

Temple, tel: 01 4021<br />

3814) This popular<br />

Brazilian restaurantbar-nightclub<br />

near<br />

République is one<br />

of the sure bets in<br />

east Paris for lively<br />

booty shaking until<br />

dawn. Free entry from<br />

Tuesday to Thursday<br />

nights, and €10<br />

entry on Fridays and<br />

Saturdays including<br />

a drink, when live<br />

DJs get the crowd<br />

up on the tables (no,<br />

really, they literally<br />

do) until 4am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Discover<br />

the newly opened<br />

boutique of the<br />

Opéra Garnier, la<br />

Galerie de l’Opéra<br />

de Paris (entrance<br />

at Rue Halévy, 9th)<br />

open daily from<br />

10am–6.30pm, with<br />

opera-themed gifts,<br />

accessories, toys, and<br />

a multi-media library.<br />

SEE Enjoy the latest<br />

musical sounds of<br />

pop, classical and jazz<br />

at the Third Annual<br />

Music & You festival<br />

at the Grand Halle<br />

de la Villette from<br />

19–22 November.<br />

Concerts, special<br />

events, workshops,<br />

conferences, and<br />

demonstrations<br />

from the world of<br />

music (Parc de la<br />

Vilette, 19th, salonmusique.com).<br />

GO The Madeleine<br />

district, with the<br />

imposing Madaleine<br />

Church at its centre,<br />

is at the heart of the<br />

banking and theatre<br />

districts between the<br />

Opéra and the Place<br />

de la Concorde. It<br />

is surrounded by<br />

fashion and gourmet<br />

food boutiques, as<br />

well as the fl ower<br />

market and discount<br />

ticket kiosk.<br />

ESCAPE Chantilly<br />

is a perfectly<br />

preserved town in<br />

the centre of one of<br />

the largest forests<br />

near Paris. It has<br />

a prestigious Living<br />

Horse Museum built<br />

in 18th-century<br />

stables and a worldrenowned<br />

collection<br />

of paintings at the<br />

Musée Condé (in the<br />

Château de Chantilly).<br />

The town is just<br />

45-minutes north of<br />

Paris by RER D, or<br />

28 minutes by train<br />

from Paris Gare<br />

du Nord (chantillytourisme.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Pierre Augustin<br />

Caron de<br />

Beaumarchais is<br />

mainly known for<br />

his plays, Barber of<br />

Seville and Marriage<br />

of Figaro. But he was<br />

also a supporter of<br />

the American<br />

Revolution, smuggling<br />

French and Spanish<br />

arms and money to<br />

insurgents under<br />

the name Rodrigue<br />

Hortalez et Cie<br />

unbeknown to many.<br />

Heather Stimmler-Hall

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