november-2010

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY
The peppers grow
best in a warm dry
climate, such as that
of the Szeged and
Kalocsa regions of
southern Hungary,
which have become
the main areas of
production. Here
paprika is still grown
and harvested in
the traditional way:
the peppers are
cultivated through
the summer, before
local workers help
to pick and hang
them into long
strings to dry slowly
in the fresh air and
sun, after which
they are ground to
a powder. The town
of Szeged is so
closely associated
with paprika that
there is a museum
dedicated to it
(pickmuzeum.hu)
and the sweetish
scent of the spice
hangs permanently
in the air.
Paprika isn’t
confi ned to Hungary
– Spain and India are
also producers – but
this is where you’ll
fi nd the fi nest in the
world. According to
Mark Steene, spice
guru and owner
of spice importers
Seasoned Pioneers
(seasoned
pioneers.co.uk)
paprika runs a
gamut of fl avours,
from mildly spicy to
sweet and subtle or
fi ercely hot, and he
explains that, like
any fi ne product,
such as wines,
coffee or chocolate,
Hungarian paprika
is graded according
to quality and taste.
There are around
nine levels of quality,
though in most
countries only one
or two of the grades
are regularly used.
“The standard
grading system
is called ASTA, so
different qualities of
paprika will range
from 60 to 140
ASTAs, depending
on the fi nesse of
the product,” he
explains. “Each type
also has names to
signify its defi ning
characteristics,
such as rose, noble
sweet, delicate and
exquisite delicate.”
Steene says
paprika is also
similar to wine in
that it’s blended –
FOOD FOR
THOUGHT
Brighter is better –
higher ASTA paprika
tends to have a
more vivid colour
and stronger taste.
after grinding it’s
mixed with chilli oil
and seeds to add
heat. This is done
by local experts to
achieve the right
intensity of colour
and fl avour. He
adds that in good
years, with the right
amounts of sun and
rain, there’s often
a better harvest
and higher-quality
product than if the
weather has been
grey and damp.
“Buyers won’t
necessarily ask
about paprika from
a specifi c year, like
they would with
wines,” he laughs,
“but you can notice a
difference in quality
if there’s been a bad
harvest, and there’s
less of the fi ner
grades available.”
So prominent is
paprika in Hungarian
culture that it’s
one of the main
souvenirs sold,
along with paprika
spoons, which are
carved out of wood
and adorned with
simple paintings of
fl owers. As gifts go,
paprika may not
blow your friends’
socks off, but just
wait until they try
it in their cooking.
Laura Latham
WHERE
TO TRY
HUNGARIAN
PAPRIKA
THE GAY
HUSSAR
LONDON
This Soho
institution has
been serving up
Hungarian food
for more than
50 years. It used
to be a hotbed
of socialism and
celebrity, but now
it’s tourists who
sample the veal
goulash. 2 Greek
Street, W1, tel: +44
(0)20 7437 0973
COSTES
BUDAPEST
This Michelinstarred
restaurant
offers traditional
Hungarian food
with contemporary
fl air, a fabulous
tasting menu
plus good
vegetarian options.
4 Ráday Utca, tel:
+36 1 219 0696
GOULASH
ABERDEEN
Unlikely as it
sounds, this
Hungarian
restaurant is
an Aberdeen
landmark. Owner
Zoltan Dragen
serves a range of
authentic dishes,
Hungarian coffee
and world-class
dessert wines.
17 Adelphi, tel: +44
(0)1224 210 530
VAL D’ISÈRE
ALPINA LODGE
In the heart
of Val d’Isère
Village.
VIP *
OFFER FOR THE READERS
•SPECIAL•
3 minutes walk from the ski runs
• 44 fully fitted flats
• Individual chalet with spa
• Quality service
495 €
per week
a head **
From :
* A basket of local specialities
presented on arrival
&
Ski passes and equipment
included and delivered
directly to the residence
For more information
&
on-line reservations
0033 (0)4 79 41 60 00
www.alpina-lodge.com
city
PEMA
** Prices based on rental contracts for 9 people