november-2010
november-2010
november-2010
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Souls Jazz Festival, now<br />
in its 55th incarnation,<br />
hit town. Catch some of<br />
the main action at Harris<br />
Bar on the main square.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Club<br />
Rdza (3–5 Ulica Bracka)<br />
If alcohol is your poison,<br />
an evening spent swilling<br />
beer in a medieval<br />
cellar is a Krakow rite<br />
of passage. This newly<br />
renovated club is<br />
recommended if you like<br />
having your ears boxed<br />
by thumping beats<br />
amid a restless crowd of<br />
dolled-up students.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP After a four-year<br />
renovation, the Cloth Hall<br />
– the magnifi cent edifi ce<br />
that bestrides the central<br />
square – has fi nally<br />
reopened. Inside, you’ll<br />
fi nd countless stalls<br />
selling local souvenirs.<br />
SEE Film buffs have<br />
a treat in store in the<br />
shape of the 17th Etiuda<br />
and Anima Festival<br />
(starting 19 November<br />
and running for more<br />
than a month). This<br />
prestigious event<br />
sees stars from the<br />
animated galaxy<br />
descend on Krakow,<br />
plus competitions<br />
showcasing<br />
budding directors<br />
(etiudaandanima.com).<br />
GO Rather than try and<br />
pretend it’s summer,<br />
it’s best to embrace<br />
the gothic charm of<br />
the Polish November.<br />
Head to Krakow’s most<br />
beautiful necropolis,<br />
Cmentarz Rakowicki, to<br />
witness the magical All<br />
Saints and All Souls on<br />
1–2 November. Tombs<br />
are festooned with<br />
fl owers and candles,<br />
echoing an ancient<br />
pagan rite.<br />
ESCAPE It’s not every<br />
day that you get the<br />
chance to behold an<br />
underground cathedral,<br />
carved entirely from<br />
salt. Alright, so it hasn’t<br />
been given cathedral<br />
status, but the sweeping<br />
19th-century chapel in<br />
the Wieliczka Salt Mines<br />
is one of the wonders<br />
of Poland. Perfect for a<br />
rainy day out of the city,<br />
it’s only a 20-minute<br />
journey away.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to legend, a<br />
pint-sized devil dressed<br />
in a curious mixture of<br />
German and Spanish<br />
garb inhabits the cellars<br />
beneath the square.<br />
Search him out at<br />
the newly opened – and<br />
vast – subterranean<br />
museum, which<br />
looks set to be<br />
one of Krakow’s<br />
star attractions.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com<br />
GRAND<br />
KRAKOW<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Great care has been<br />
taken to restore the<br />
historical interiors,<br />
while it’s elegance has<br />
never failed to impress.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €58, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Lamezia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
2008<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Routes 4 and 5<br />
go to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Il<br />
Capriccio Pizzeria<br />
Rosticceria (70 Via<br />
Santa Maria Nuestra,<br />
Catanzaro, tel: 0961 769<br />
553) This informal eatery<br />
has a healthy selection of<br />
pizzas, arancini rice balls<br />
and panini. It delivers<br />
in the Santa Maria area<br />
and is a nice option for<br />
travellers who would just<br />
prefer to order in.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Trattoria<br />
Max (75–81 Via<br />
Togliatti, Cirò Marina,<br />
tel: 0962 373 009) This<br />
traditional trattoria is in<br />
the heart of Calabria’s<br />
wine country and serves<br />
hearty fare, such as<br />
potatoes and peppers,<br />
homemade pasta with<br />
a spicy salami sauce<br />
and porcini mushrooms.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Il Salumaio<br />
(132 Corso Mazzini,<br />
Cosenza, tel: 0984<br />
23304) Salumaio is a<br />
good choice for postdinner<br />
wine or cocktails.<br />
Find it on the busy<br />
Corso Mazzini.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Antica Traccia (Via<br />
II Circonvallazione,<br />
Taurianova, tel: 0966<br />
610 810) Almost every<br />
night of the week, Antica<br />
Traccia showcases some<br />
form of entertainment,<br />
ranging from live music<br />
to karaoke to comedy<br />
shows and Latin dance<br />
nights. One thing’s for<br />
sure with all of them<br />
though: you’re in for<br />
a good night out.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For more than<br />
50 years, Caseifi cio<br />
Macri has been<br />
producing homemade<br />
Calabrian cheese and<br />
dairy products that are<br />
melt-in-your-mouth<br />
delicious (2 Viale<br />
Europa, Satriano).<br />
SEE November is<br />
chestnut season in<br />
Calabria, so look out<br />
for Castagna festivals<br />
throughout the region,<br />
most notably in Davoli<br />
and Savelli, where all of<br />
the town plazas will be<br />
fi lled with the smell of<br />
roasting chestnuts.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Pollino mountain<br />
range extends from<br />
northern Calabria, and<br />
at 193,000 hectares, it<br />
is the largest national<br />
park in Italy.<br />
Cherrye Moore/<br />
my-bellavita.com<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW), Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
2007<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
On routes 22 and<br />
23, buses stop at<br />
Playa del Reducto and<br />
Arrecife’s bus station,<br />
from 7am–10.25pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Bar Stop<br />
(Calle La Cuesta, Yaiza)<br />
For a truly non-touristy<br />
and authentically local<br />
version of tapas, step<br />
into this unassuming<br />
little bar at lunchtime.<br />
You’ll fi nd it just<br />
opposite the church.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Isla de<br />
Lobos (Hotel Princesa<br />
Yaiza, Playa Blanca, tel:<br />
928 519 222) This fi ne<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in “slow food”, using the<br />
best of local produce,<br />
such as black Canary<br />
Island suckling pig.<br />
With great service and<br />
stunning views over<br />
Playa Dorada and across<br />
to Fuerteventura, you<br />
won’t be disappointed<br />
by this all-rounder.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Orient<br />
Express (2 Plaza Pueblo<br />
Marinero, Costa Teguise,<br />
tel: 928 591 016) Start<br />
the evening off over a<br />
cocktail or beer in this<br />
chilled-out Asian-themed<br />
bar in Costa Teguise.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Danceclub 928<br />
(Avenida de las Playas,<br />
tel: 928 841 394) This<br />
is the place for the real<br />
night owls in Puerto<br />
del Carmen. It opens at<br />
midnight but doesn’t get<br />
really busy until about<br />
3am, and the party<br />
keeps going until 6am!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With an eclectic<br />
mix of upmarket gifts –<br />
everything from interior<br />
design items to clothes<br />
to cigar cutters – Palm<br />
Centre is a great place<br />
to fi nd something to<br />
take home with you<br />
(Edifi cio Aparthotel<br />
Los Fariones, Puerto<br />
del Carmen).<br />
GO Puerto Calero is<br />
a pretty and upmarket<br />
marina, located just<br />
south of Puerto del<br />
Carmen. It’s well worth a<br />
visit for its fi ne selection<br />
of waterside bars, cafés<br />
and restaurants.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Flying fi sh can often<br />
be seen on marine<br />
excursions and ferry<br />
trips around Lanzarote.<br />
They have been<br />
captured on fi lm fl ying<br />
for up to 45 seconds!<br />
Ashley Wootton/<br />
Discover Lanzarote.com
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