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Rome<br />

Italy<br />

Uno e Bino (58<br />

Via degli Equi, San<br />

Lorenzo, tel: 06<br />

446 0702) Situated<br />

in a quiet part of<br />

San Lorenzo, the<br />

student area of the<br />

city, Uno e Bino,<br />

with its atmospheric<br />

stone fl oor and<br />

wooden tables, offers<br />

outstanding gourmet<br />

food that refl ects the<br />

Gravina family roots<br />

in Umbria and Sicily.<br />

Try their wonderful<br />

Parmiggiano souffl é<br />

or if you are feeling<br />

adventurous, the<br />

octopus salad.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Vivendo del St<br />

Regis Grand (3 Via<br />

Vittorio Emmanuele<br />

Orlando, tel: 06<br />

4709 2736) A top<br />

class establishment<br />

set in a swish and<br />

famous hotel. Maître<br />

d’ Luciano Cerri and<br />

his courteous and<br />

attentive staff serve<br />

dishes including rice<br />

with lamb sauce<br />

and black truffl e. For<br />

dessert why not try<br />

the unusual tomato<br />

gazpacho with orange<br />

and mint and pearls<br />

of fresh fruit?<br />

Le Sans Souci (20<br />

Via Sicilia, tel: 06<br />

4201 4510) Dine in<br />

elegant surroundings<br />

on delicacies such as<br />

tortelli with truffl es,<br />

duck-dove in a<br />

millefeuille crust, or<br />

steamed sea bass<br />

with very thin slices<br />

of courgette and<br />

tomatoes in balsamic<br />

A LFRIERI<br />

STUDIO DENTISTICO<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

vinegar, produced by<br />

the best Italian and<br />

French chefs under<br />

the exacting gaze<br />

of Bruno Borghesi.<br />

Be careful to leave<br />

room for a helping<br />

of Grand Marnier<br />

souffl é for dessert.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Latteria<br />

del Gallo (4 Vicolo<br />

del Gallo, tel: 06 686<br />

5091) A short stroll<br />

from über-trendy<br />

Campo dei Fiori, you<br />

can take a trip back to<br />

the 1950s in the city<br />

centre’s last old-style<br />

milk bar. Old football<br />

posters peel off the<br />

walls along with the<br />

paint. Good for coffee,<br />

cakes, pinball and<br />

feeling like you are<br />

on an old fi lm set.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

La Palma (35 Via<br />

Giuseppe Mirri,<br />

Tiburtino, tel: 06 4356<br />

6581) Set in a former<br />

industrial building, La<br />

Palma is now a venue<br />

for all the best, most<br />

happening music<br />

trends. It also serves<br />

great food and has<br />

art events on offer.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Transilvania (13A<br />

Via Cardinale Merry<br />

Del Val, tel: 06 580<br />

6899) A hard-rock<br />

pub with a decidedly<br />

Hammer Horror<br />

theme. Customers sit<br />

at coffi ns rather than<br />

tables and drink from<br />

“skulls”. Light-hearted<br />

fun, in the strangest<br />

possible taste.<br />

La Saponeria (20<br />

Via degli Argonauti,<br />

tel: 06 574 6999) La<br />

Saponeria (the Soap<br />

Factory) hosts some<br />

of Italy’s best DJs,<br />

who play a wide range<br />

of hip hop and house<br />

hits. Only open from<br />

Thursday–Saturday,<br />

but always packed<br />

to the gunnels on<br />

those nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Valzani is an<br />

old fashioned and<br />

very atmospheric<br />

cioccolateria, open<br />

since 1925, in the heart<br />

of buzzing Trastevere,<br />

selling an assortment<br />

of homemade<br />

chocolates and cakes<br />

(37 Via Del Moro,<br />

tel: 06 580 3792).<br />

SEE Rome Jazz<br />

Festival brings<br />

a selection of<br />

international artists to<br />

the city. Concerts are<br />

held all over the city<br />

but the biggest ones<br />

take place at the very<br />

up-to-date Auditorium<br />

Parco della Musica<br />

and are divided into<br />

three sections – Focus<br />

Orchestras, Events<br />

and Previews (30 Viale<br />

Pietro de Coubertin).<br />

GO The Basilica di San<br />

Giovanni in Laterano<br />

ranks as the second<br />

most important one<br />

for Roman Catholics.<br />

Only the pope is<br />

permitted to offi ciate<br />

at its 14th-century<br />

Baldacchino altar.<br />

Believers climb up<br />

the Scala Santa (Holy<br />

Staircase) behind the<br />

basilica on their knees.<br />

If you prefer to walk,<br />

go up the sides.<br />

ESCAPE Hacked<br />

out of a vast plateau<br />

of volcanic rock, the<br />

centre of Orvieto is<br />

a great place for lunch,<br />

an afternoon walk<br />

and, of course, for<br />

trying some of the<br />

town’s famous wine.<br />

Trains depart from<br />

Termini and Tiburtina<br />

stations, and take<br />

around an hour.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

If you’ve been<br />

brushing up on your<br />

Italian before visiting,<br />

you may nevertheless<br />

fi nd yourself confused<br />

when listening to<br />

Romans talk. Even<br />

if only a few of them<br />

fully use the old<br />

Romanesco dialect,<br />

many people still talk<br />

the Roman way, which<br />

among other things<br />

means chopping the<br />

ends of most words.<br />

For example, “let’s eat”<br />

in standard Italian is<br />

andiamo a mangiare,<br />

while in Romanaccio it<br />

becomes namo<br />

a magna.<br />

Alan Goldwater<br />

CRISTOFORO<br />

COLOMBO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

The hotel is in the<br />

immediate outskirts of<br />

Rome’s centre, perfect<br />

for those wishing to<br />

get away from it all.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €65, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

DO YOU WANT TO SAVE 50% ON<br />

YOUR DENTAL TREATMENT?<br />

Treatments at The Alfrieri clinic are up to 50% cheaper than<br />

most in the UK, Germany and France.<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 169<br />

Salzburg<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Grenoble,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

2008<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

Trains run to the<br />

Hauptbahnhof<br />

station. Tickets: €9.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Maiers<br />

(61 Steingasse, tel:<br />

0662 879 379) This<br />

place is famous for its<br />

kind staff and a homely<br />

atmosphere – expect<br />

a menu with few chosen<br />

local dishes, excellently<br />

prepared and in<br />

abundant portions.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Itzlinger<br />

Hof (11 Itzlinger<br />

Hauptstrasse, tel: 0662<br />

451 210) The menu of<br />

the family-run restaurant<br />

offers hearty specialities<br />

such as Iberico pork<br />

with pumpkin sauce,<br />

and lighter ones such as<br />

pasta or a gilthead fi llet<br />

with spinach risotto.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Mozart’s<br />

(1 Mozartplatz, tel:<br />

0662 843 8492) The<br />

comfortable lounge is<br />

the right place if you<br />

want to have a glass<br />

of wine. Accompanied<br />

by the sweet plum<br />

omelette dessert.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Baboon<br />

(11 Imbergstrasse, tel:<br />

0662 885 932) This<br />

club is frequented by<br />

a local twentysomething<br />

crowd and famous for<br />

a mix of great tunes,<br />

including acid jazz, rock<br />

and disco music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP You don’t need<br />

to wait for sales to<br />

shop at this place: the<br />

boutique is an insider<br />

tip for the young crowd,<br />

and offers clothes and<br />

accessories designed by<br />

the young artist scene<br />

from Salzburg and<br />

Vienna, check out the<br />

Beat’o Eco collection (2<br />

Lederergasse, tel: 0699<br />

1045 5883).<br />

SEE If you like modern<br />

art, have a look at<br />

the exhibition by<br />

Jürgen Klauke, one of<br />

the leading German<br />

artists in the area of<br />

body art. The unusual<br />

exhibition presents<br />

his photographic work<br />

and video installations.<br />

Throughout the month<br />

(Museum der Moderne<br />

Rupertinum, 9 Wiener<br />

Philharmoniker Gasse).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The largest nature<br />

reserve of the Alps, the<br />

National Park Hohe<br />

Tauern, has its largest<br />

part located in the<br />

province of Salzburg.<br />

Uros Urosevic

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