november-2010
november-2010
november-2010
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Rome<br />
Italy<br />
Uno e Bino (58<br />
Via degli Equi, San<br />
Lorenzo, tel: 06<br />
446 0702) Situated<br />
in a quiet part of<br />
San Lorenzo, the<br />
student area of the<br />
city, Uno e Bino,<br />
with its atmospheric<br />
stone fl oor and<br />
wooden tables, offers<br />
outstanding gourmet<br />
food that refl ects the<br />
Gravina family roots<br />
in Umbria and Sicily.<br />
Try their wonderful<br />
Parmiggiano souffl é<br />
or if you are feeling<br />
adventurous, the<br />
octopus salad.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Vivendo del St<br />
Regis Grand (3 Via<br />
Vittorio Emmanuele<br />
Orlando, tel: 06<br />
4709 2736) A top<br />
class establishment<br />
set in a swish and<br />
famous hotel. Maître<br />
d’ Luciano Cerri and<br />
his courteous and<br />
attentive staff serve<br />
dishes including rice<br />
with lamb sauce<br />
and black truffl e. For<br />
dessert why not try<br />
the unusual tomato<br />
gazpacho with orange<br />
and mint and pearls<br />
of fresh fruit?<br />
Le Sans Souci (20<br />
Via Sicilia, tel: 06<br />
4201 4510) Dine in<br />
elegant surroundings<br />
on delicacies such as<br />
tortelli with truffl es,<br />
duck-dove in a<br />
millefeuille crust, or<br />
steamed sea bass<br />
with very thin slices<br />
of courgette and<br />
tomatoes in balsamic<br />
A LFRIERI<br />
STUDIO DENTISTICO<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
vinegar, produced by<br />
the best Italian and<br />
French chefs under<br />
the exacting gaze<br />
of Bruno Borghesi.<br />
Be careful to leave<br />
room for a helping<br />
of Grand Marnier<br />
souffl é for dessert.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Latteria<br />
del Gallo (4 Vicolo<br />
del Gallo, tel: 06 686<br />
5091) A short stroll<br />
from über-trendy<br />
Campo dei Fiori, you<br />
can take a trip back to<br />
the 1950s in the city<br />
centre’s last old-style<br />
milk bar. Old football<br />
posters peel off the<br />
walls along with the<br />
paint. Good for coffee,<br />
cakes, pinball and<br />
feeling like you are<br />
on an old fi lm set.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
La Palma (35 Via<br />
Giuseppe Mirri,<br />
Tiburtino, tel: 06 4356<br />
6581) Set in a former<br />
industrial building, La<br />
Palma is now a venue<br />
for all the best, most<br />
happening music<br />
trends. It also serves<br />
great food and has<br />
art events on offer.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Transilvania (13A<br />
Via Cardinale Merry<br />
Del Val, tel: 06 580<br />
6899) A hard-rock<br />
pub with a decidedly<br />
Hammer Horror<br />
theme. Customers sit<br />
at coffi ns rather than<br />
tables and drink from<br />
“skulls”. Light-hearted<br />
fun, in the strangest<br />
possible taste.<br />
La Saponeria (20<br />
Via degli Argonauti,<br />
tel: 06 574 6999) La<br />
Saponeria (the Soap<br />
Factory) hosts some<br />
of Italy’s best DJs,<br />
who play a wide range<br />
of hip hop and house<br />
hits. Only open from<br />
Thursday–Saturday,<br />
but always packed<br />
to the gunnels on<br />
those nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Valzani is an<br />
old fashioned and<br />
very atmospheric<br />
cioccolateria, open<br />
since 1925, in the heart<br />
of buzzing Trastevere,<br />
selling an assortment<br />
of homemade<br />
chocolates and cakes<br />
(37 Via Del Moro,<br />
tel: 06 580 3792).<br />
SEE Rome Jazz<br />
Festival brings<br />
a selection of<br />
international artists to<br />
the city. Concerts are<br />
held all over the city<br />
but the biggest ones<br />
take place at the very<br />
up-to-date Auditorium<br />
Parco della Musica<br />
and are divided into<br />
three sections – Focus<br />
Orchestras, Events<br />
and Previews (30 Viale<br />
Pietro de Coubertin).<br />
GO The Basilica di San<br />
Giovanni in Laterano<br />
ranks as the second<br />
most important one<br />
for Roman Catholics.<br />
Only the pope is<br />
permitted to offi ciate<br />
at its 14th-century<br />
Baldacchino altar.<br />
Believers climb up<br />
the Scala Santa (Holy<br />
Staircase) behind the<br />
basilica on their knees.<br />
If you prefer to walk,<br />
go up the sides.<br />
ESCAPE Hacked<br />
out of a vast plateau<br />
of volcanic rock, the<br />
centre of Orvieto is<br />
a great place for lunch,<br />
an afternoon walk<br />
and, of course, for<br />
trying some of the<br />
town’s famous wine.<br />
Trains depart from<br />
Termini and Tiburtina<br />
stations, and take<br />
around an hour.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If you’ve been<br />
brushing up on your<br />
Italian before visiting,<br />
you may nevertheless<br />
fi nd yourself confused<br />
when listening to<br />
Romans talk. Even<br />
if only a few of them<br />
fully use the old<br />
Romanesco dialect,<br />
many people still talk<br />
the Roman way, which<br />
among other things<br />
means chopping the<br />
ends of most words.<br />
For example, “let’s eat”<br />
in standard Italian is<br />
andiamo a mangiare,<br />
while in Romanaccio it<br />
becomes namo<br />
a magna.<br />
Alan Goldwater<br />
CRISTOFORO<br />
COLOMBO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The hotel is in the<br />
immediate outskirts of<br />
Rome’s centre, perfect<br />
for those wishing to<br />
get away from it all.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €65, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
DO YOU WANT TO SAVE 50% ON<br />
YOUR DENTAL TREATMENT?<br />
Treatments at The Alfrieri clinic are up to 50% cheaper than<br />
most in the UK, Germany and France.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 169<br />
Salzburg<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Grenoble,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
2008<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Trains run to the<br />
Hauptbahnhof<br />
station. Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Maiers<br />
(61 Steingasse, tel:<br />
0662 879 379) This<br />
place is famous for its<br />
kind staff and a homely<br />
atmosphere – expect<br />
a menu with few chosen<br />
local dishes, excellently<br />
prepared and in<br />
abundant portions.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Itzlinger<br />
Hof (11 Itzlinger<br />
Hauptstrasse, tel: 0662<br />
451 210) The menu of<br />
the family-run restaurant<br />
offers hearty specialities<br />
such as Iberico pork<br />
with pumpkin sauce,<br />
and lighter ones such as<br />
pasta or a gilthead fi llet<br />
with spinach risotto.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Mozart’s<br />
(1 Mozartplatz, tel:<br />
0662 843 8492) The<br />
comfortable lounge is<br />
the right place if you<br />
want to have a glass<br />
of wine. Accompanied<br />
by the sweet plum<br />
omelette dessert.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Baboon<br />
(11 Imbergstrasse, tel:<br />
0662 885 932) This<br />
club is frequented by<br />
a local twentysomething<br />
crowd and famous for<br />
a mix of great tunes,<br />
including acid jazz, rock<br />
and disco music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP You don’t need<br />
to wait for sales to<br />
shop at this place: the<br />
boutique is an insider<br />
tip for the young crowd,<br />
and offers clothes and<br />
accessories designed by<br />
the young artist scene<br />
from Salzburg and<br />
Vienna, check out the<br />
Beat’o Eco collection (2<br />
Lederergasse, tel: 0699<br />
1045 5883).<br />
SEE If you like modern<br />
art, have a look at<br />
the exhibition by<br />
Jürgen Klauke, one of<br />
the leading German<br />
artists in the area of<br />
body art. The unusual<br />
exhibition presents<br />
his photographic work<br />
and video installations.<br />
Throughout the month<br />
(Museum der Moderne<br />
Rupertinum, 9 Wiener<br />
Philharmoniker Gasse).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The largest nature<br />
reserve of the Alps, the<br />
National Park Hohe<br />
Tauern, has its largest<br />
part located in the<br />
province of Salzburg.<br />
Uros Urosevic