november-2010
november-2010
november-2010
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148 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Luxor<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
NEW FROM<br />
<strong>2010</strong><br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs between<br />
50–100LE.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ramasseum Café<br />
(Ramasseum, West<br />
Bank) A hidden gem<br />
with views to die for.<br />
Expect simple but tasty<br />
lunches, made using<br />
local food, served with<br />
ice-cold beer.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Al Moudira (West<br />
Bank, tel: 012 325<br />
1307) Al Moudira is<br />
a hotel restaurant<br />
with Moorish-inspired<br />
décor and a fantastic<br />
ambience. The menu is<br />
a mix of well-executed<br />
Egyptian, Lebanese and<br />
international dishes,<br />
served with local wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Tutti Frutti<br />
(St Joseph Street, East<br />
Bank, tel: 010 266 6680)<br />
Light snacks, desserts<br />
to die for and a calm and<br />
relaxing atmosphere<br />
make this little café<br />
a tranquil oasis.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Royal<br />
Oak Pub (Khalid Ibn El<br />
Walid street, East Bank,<br />
tel: 09 5236 6264) A<br />
centrally located bar.<br />
Try the excellent local<br />
beer, Stella, which has<br />
been brewed in Egypt<br />
since 1897.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Caravanserai<br />
is an Aladdin’s cave of<br />
crafts, pictures, pottery,<br />
and jewellery. Khalid<br />
Mohammed Ibrahim,<br />
the owner, has sourced<br />
everything locally and<br />
also supports the local<br />
women’s sewing group<br />
(Medinet Habu, West<br />
Bank, tel: 012 327 8771).<br />
GO The tomb of<br />
Irynefer has recently<br />
been opened in the<br />
village at Deir el Medina.<br />
This is a great historical<br />
site with two tombs, a<br />
temple and the village.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
It took Howard Carter<br />
nine years to clear the<br />
tomb of Tutankhamun.<br />
Jane Akshar<br />
SOFITEL<br />
KARNAK<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Situated in a tranquil<br />
setting close to Karnak<br />
Temple, with three<br />
restaurants, bars,<br />
and swimming pools.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €23, book at<br />
holidays.easyJet.com.<br />
Lyon<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir, Barcelona,<br />
Berlin, Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />
Brest, Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Casablanca, Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Edinburgh,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Marrakech, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nantes, Nice,<br />
Olbia, Porto, Prague, Rome<br />
(CIA), Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
SINCE<br />
1999<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €55.<br />
Trains run every 15<br />
minutes till 9pm<br />
and every 30 minutes<br />
till midnight. Tickets:<br />
€13, single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Le Petit<br />
Bouffon (73 Rue de<br />
Sèze, 6th, tel: 04 7824<br />
0016) Flavours from<br />
the Basque and local<br />
Lyonnaise regions<br />
are innovatively<br />
served in bright and<br />
jolly surroundings.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Brocéliande (3 Rue<br />
du Jardin des Plantes,<br />
1st, tel: 04 7226<br />
0539) Come here to<br />
sample fresh produce<br />
transformed into tasty<br />
dishes, such as velouté<br />
of pumpkin laced with<br />
scallops. A great<br />
stop-off for lunch<br />
or dinner.<br />
UP TO €50 Chez<br />
Moss (2 Rue<br />
Ferrandière, 2nd, tel: 04<br />
7842 0409) Superbly<br />
situated among the<br />
bustle of the city’s busy<br />
shopping streets and<br />
nightlife, Chez Moss<br />
is known for its<br />
generous platters of<br />
fresh shellfi sh and<br />
hefty helpings of<br />
moules et frites, as<br />
well as an impressive<br />
daily special menu<br />
including marketchoice<br />
grilled fi sh.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Tassée (20 Rue de la<br />
Charité, 2nd, tel: 04<br />
7277 7900) Here you’ll<br />
fi nd the whole range of<br />
rustic to regal dishes,<br />
all made using classic<br />
recipes, served in this<br />
immaculately preserved<br />
1950s bouchon – a<br />
restaurant specifi c to<br />
the Lyonnais area.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar Cours<br />
des Loges (6 Rue<br />
du Bœuf, 5th, tel:<br />
04 7277 4444) Spoil<br />
yourself in the grand<br />
surroundings of this<br />
hotel’s vaulted bar.<br />
Ambient music mixed<br />
with contemporary art<br />
washes down well with<br />
a glass of Champagne.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Black<br />
and White (18 Quai<br />
Romain Rolland, 5th,<br />
tel: 04 7842 3634)<br />
Buzzing vibes of jazz,<br />
R’n’B and salsa are<br />
on offer at this exotic<br />
club that’s popular<br />
with all ages.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
First (13–14 Place<br />
Jules Ferry, 6th, tel: 04<br />
3724 1946) If you want<br />
to groove with Lyon’s<br />
young and up-for-it<br />
crowd, then this is the<br />
place to be seen. Dress<br />
well if you want to get<br />
in: the bouncer likes<br />
to enforce a strict<br />
dress code.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Marché<br />
de Noël, in the<br />
Place Carnot (next<br />
to Perrache Train<br />
Station), boasts some<br />
of the very best foodie<br />
gifts and arts and<br />
crafts from the Rhône-<br />
Alpes region. Painted<br />
wooden chalets host<br />
over 120 exhibitors<br />
selling handmade<br />
santons (nativity<br />
fi gurines) and other<br />
great gift ideas.<br />
SEE The long-awaited<br />
release of each year’s<br />
Beaujolais Nouveau<br />
comes at the stroke of<br />
midnight on the third<br />
Thursday in November<br />
every year. Beaujeau,<br />
the historic capital of<br />
the Beaujolais region,<br />
kicks off its annual<br />
Sarmentelles festival<br />
on 17 November. It<br />
features a tasting of<br />
the region’s wines,<br />
followed by a torchlit<br />
procession and<br />
the release of the<br />
Beaujolais Nouveau.<br />
The festivities continue<br />
through the weekend<br />
(sarmentelles.com).<br />
GO Head up to<br />
the Montée de la<br />
Grand Côte and take<br />
in Lyon’s famous<br />
traboules. These<br />
narrow passageways<br />
play a large part in<br />
Lyon’s history: they<br />
were constructed<br />
in Roman times as<br />
pedestrian short cuts,<br />
and were later used<br />
as the now-famous<br />
secret passageways<br />
to transport silk from<br />
one street to another.<br />
As you descend, stop<br />
off and marvel at Place<br />
Sathonay. A UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site, this<br />
square is composed<br />
of buildings featuring<br />
beautiful 1920s façades.<br />
ESCAPE Saint-<br />
Etienne, 45 minutes to<br />
the west of Lyon, has<br />
distinguished itself<br />
with its passion for<br />
nature, art and design,<br />
and football. The city,<br />
rich in history and<br />
steeped in tradition,<br />
also offers 700<br />
hectares of nearby<br />
parkland called le Pilat,<br />
which is perfect for<br />
those with a penchant<br />
for outdoor activities.<br />
Step back in time and<br />
visit the Coal Mining<br />
Museum, then wander<br />
up to Guizay Hill, which<br />
offers fantastic views<br />
of the city below. Finish<br />
off your day in your<br />
choice of the cafés and<br />
restaurants around the<br />
Place du Peuple, which<br />
also hosts fabulous<br />
open-air markets.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Dr Edmond Locard<br />
opened the world’s fi rst<br />
police crime laboratory<br />
in 1910 in Lyon. Locard<br />
was a student of<br />
Bertillon, also a pioneer<br />
of forensic science.<br />
John Brown