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148 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Luxor<br />

Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

NEW FROM<br />

<strong>2010</strong><br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs between<br />

50–100LE.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Ramasseum Café<br />

(Ramasseum, West<br />

Bank) A hidden gem<br />

with views to die for.<br />

Expect simple but tasty<br />

lunches, made using<br />

local food, served with<br />

ice-cold beer.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Al Moudira (West<br />

Bank, tel: 012 325<br />

1307) Al Moudira is<br />

a hotel restaurant<br />

with Moorish-inspired<br />

décor and a fantastic<br />

ambience. The menu is<br />

a mix of well-executed<br />

Egyptian, Lebanese and<br />

international dishes,<br />

served with local wines.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Tutti Frutti<br />

(St Joseph Street, East<br />

Bank, tel: 010 266 6680)<br />

Light snacks, desserts<br />

to die for and a calm and<br />

relaxing atmosphere<br />

make this little café<br />

a tranquil oasis.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Royal<br />

Oak Pub (Khalid Ibn El<br />

Walid street, East Bank,<br />

tel: 09 5236 6264) A<br />

centrally located bar.<br />

Try the excellent local<br />

beer, Stella, which has<br />

been brewed in Egypt<br />

since 1897.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Caravanserai<br />

is an Aladdin’s cave of<br />

crafts, pictures, pottery,<br />

and jewellery. Khalid<br />

Mohammed Ibrahim,<br />

the owner, has sourced<br />

everything locally and<br />

also supports the local<br />

women’s sewing group<br />

(Medinet Habu, West<br />

Bank, tel: 012 327 8771).<br />

GO The tomb of<br />

Irynefer has recently<br />

been opened in the<br />

village at Deir el Medina.<br />

This is a great historical<br />

site with two tombs, a<br />

temple and the village.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It took Howard Carter<br />

nine years to clear the<br />

tomb of Tutankhamun.<br />

Jane Akshar<br />

SOFITEL<br />

KARNAK<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Situated in a tranquil<br />

setting close to Karnak<br />

Temple, with three<br />

restaurants, bars,<br />

and swimming pools.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €23, book at<br />

holidays.easyJet.com.<br />

Lyon<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir, Barcelona,<br />

Berlin, Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />

Brest, Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Casablanca, Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Edinburgh,<br />

Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Marrakech, Milan<br />

(MXP), Nantes, Nice,<br />

Olbia, Porto, Prague, Rome<br />

(CIA), Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

SINCE<br />

1999<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €55.<br />

Trains run every 15<br />

minutes till 9pm<br />

and every 30 minutes<br />

till midnight. Tickets:<br />

€13, single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Le Petit<br />

Bouffon (73 Rue de<br />

Sèze, 6th, tel: 04 7824<br />

0016) Flavours from<br />

the Basque and local<br />

Lyonnaise regions<br />

are innovatively<br />

served in bright and<br />

jolly surroundings.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Brocéliande (3 Rue<br />

du Jardin des Plantes,<br />

1st, tel: 04 7226<br />

0539) Come here to<br />

sample fresh produce<br />

transformed into tasty<br />

dishes, such as velouté<br />

of pumpkin laced with<br />

scallops. A great<br />

stop-off for lunch<br />

or dinner.<br />

UP TO €50 Chez<br />

Moss (2 Rue<br />

Ferrandière, 2nd, tel: 04<br />

7842 0409) Superbly<br />

situated among the<br />

bustle of the city’s busy<br />

shopping streets and<br />

nightlife, Chez Moss<br />

is known for its<br />

generous platters of<br />

fresh shellfi sh and<br />

hefty helpings of<br />

moules et frites, as<br />

well as an impressive<br />

daily special menu<br />

including marketchoice<br />

grilled fi sh.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Tassée (20 Rue de la<br />

Charité, 2nd, tel: 04<br />

7277 7900) Here you’ll<br />

fi nd the whole range of<br />

rustic to regal dishes,<br />

all made using classic<br />

recipes, served in this<br />

immaculately preserved<br />

1950s bouchon – a<br />

restaurant specifi c to<br />

the Lyonnais area.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar Cours<br />

des Loges (6 Rue<br />

du Bœuf, 5th, tel:<br />

04 7277 4444) Spoil<br />

yourself in the grand<br />

surroundings of this<br />

hotel’s vaulted bar.<br />

Ambient music mixed<br />

with contemporary art<br />

washes down well with<br />

a glass of Champagne.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Black<br />

and White (18 Quai<br />

Romain Rolland, 5th,<br />

tel: 04 7842 3634)<br />

Buzzing vibes of jazz,<br />

R’n’B and salsa are<br />

on offer at this exotic<br />

club that’s popular<br />

with all ages.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

First (13–14 Place<br />

Jules Ferry, 6th, tel: 04<br />

3724 1946) If you want<br />

to groove with Lyon’s<br />

young and up-for-it<br />

crowd, then this is the<br />

place to be seen. Dress<br />

well if you want to get<br />

in: the bouncer likes<br />

to enforce a strict<br />

dress code.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Marché<br />

de Noël, in the<br />

Place Carnot (next<br />

to Perrache Train<br />

Station), boasts some<br />

of the very best foodie<br />

gifts and arts and<br />

crafts from the Rhône-<br />

Alpes region. Painted<br />

wooden chalets host<br />

over 120 exhibitors<br />

selling handmade<br />

santons (nativity<br />

fi gurines) and other<br />

great gift ideas.<br />

SEE The long-awaited<br />

release of each year’s<br />

Beaujolais Nouveau<br />

comes at the stroke of<br />

midnight on the third<br />

Thursday in November<br />

every year. Beaujeau,<br />

the historic capital of<br />

the Beaujolais region,<br />

kicks off its annual<br />

Sarmentelles festival<br />

on 17 November. It<br />

features a tasting of<br />

the region’s wines,<br />

followed by a torchlit<br />

procession and<br />

the release of the<br />

Beaujolais Nouveau.<br />

The festivities continue<br />

through the weekend<br />

(sarmentelles.com).<br />

GO Head up to<br />

the Montée de la<br />

Grand Côte and take<br />

in Lyon’s famous<br />

traboules. These<br />

narrow passageways<br />

play a large part in<br />

Lyon’s history: they<br />

were constructed<br />

in Roman times as<br />

pedestrian short cuts,<br />

and were later used<br />

as the now-famous<br />

secret passageways<br />

to transport silk from<br />

one street to another.<br />

As you descend, stop<br />

off and marvel at Place<br />

Sathonay. A UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site, this<br />

square is composed<br />

of buildings featuring<br />

beautiful 1920s façades.<br />

ESCAPE Saint-<br />

Etienne, 45 minutes to<br />

the west of Lyon, has<br />

distinguished itself<br />

with its passion for<br />

nature, art and design,<br />

and football. The city,<br />

rich in history and<br />

steeped in tradition,<br />

also offers 700<br />

hectares of nearby<br />

parkland called le Pilat,<br />

which is perfect for<br />

those with a penchant<br />

for outdoor activities.<br />

Step back in time and<br />

visit the Coal Mining<br />

Museum, then wander<br />

up to Guizay Hill, which<br />

offers fantastic views<br />

of the city below. Finish<br />

off your day in your<br />

choice of the cafés and<br />

restaurants around the<br />

Place du Peuple, which<br />

also hosts fabulous<br />

open-air markets.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Dr Edmond Locard<br />

opened the world’s fi rst<br />

police crime laboratory<br />

in 1910 in Lyon. Locard<br />

was a student of<br />

Bertillon, also a pioneer<br />

of forensic science.<br />

John Brown

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