november-2010

142 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Lisbon
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona, Basel-
Mulhouse, Berlin, Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
LTN), Lyon, Madeira,
Madrid, Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG), Rome
(FCO), Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
2005
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
The Aerobus
leaves every 20
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Kaffeehaus (3 Rua
Anchieta, tel: 21 095
6825) A Viennese treat
in the heart of Lisbon.
Just around the corner
from the São Carlos
Theatre, this elegant
yet laidback café serves
Austrian specialities,
among other dishes.
UP TO €30 Cervejaria
da Trindade (20C
Rua Nova da Trindade,
tel: 21 342 3506) This
big, clattery beer hall
specialises in seafood
and, yes, beer. Situated in
a 12th-century convent,
there is lots to look
at, too – the walls are
adorned with thousands
of beautiful tiles. Open
daily until 2am.
UP TO €50 100
Maneiras (35 Rua do
Teixeira, tel: 21 099
0475) One of Lisbon’s
most talented chefs,
the Yugoslav Ljumomir
Stanisic, has recently
moved his highly
successful restaurant
from Cascais to the
Bairro Alto. The prices
are now signifi cantly
lower, but without
sacrifi cing on quality.
Expect the freshest
ingredients and a
constantly changing
and creative menu.
EXCLUSIVE Cipriani
(Lapa Palace Hotel, 4
Rua do Pau de Bandeira,
Lapa, tel: 21 394 9401)
This elegant dining
room, housed in a
19th-century palace set
amid romantic gardens,
serves a luxurious menu
that is predominantly
Italian but usually
includes a Portuguese
dish or two. There’s an
excellent wine list and
impeccable service, too.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Supercalifragilistic
(98 Rua dos Remédios)
A far cry from the ugly
tiles and Formica tables
of the old-style joints,
this is one of the new
breed of Alfama bars.
Expect cocktails, wines,
interesting bar snacks,
a menu featuring
inventive interpretations
of Portuguese classics,
and a youthful crowd.
Open 6pm–2am.
LIVE MUSIC Clube
de Fado (94 Rua São
João da Praça, tel: 21
885 2704) An aristocrat
among fado houses, this
is the place to hear the
city’s best professional
fado – Lisbon blues – in
a lovely old building.
LATE & LIVELY Mini
Mercado (67 Avenida
Dom Carlos I, Santos,
tel: 21 895 5957) An
intimate, cabaret-style
venue, Mini Mercado
is popular with locals
who come to hear hip
hop and the occasional
live act. Doors open
at 11pm, and the night
goes on till late.
THIS MONTH
SHOP With over 140
shops Freeport Leisure
centre is an outlet that
will please the most
discerning shopper. In
nearby Alcochete, this
is the place to fi nd new
designer-wear to take
home. It’s a 40-minute
drive out of Lisbon, but
there are regular shuttle
buses (freeport.pt).
SEE From 22
November, the English
Theatre presents The
Importance of Being
Earnest (10 Rua da
Estrela, tel: 21 396 1946,
lisbonplayers.com.
pt). Alternatively, the
Columbian diva Shakira
will be at the Atlantic
Pavilion on 21 November
(pavilhaoatlantico.pt).
GO The Alfama district
is steeped in history
and can claim to be
the true heart of the
city. While still highly
traditional in many ways,
this village-like maze of
traffi c-free alleyways and
steps has undergone a
transformation in the
last few years and is now
home to a number of
trendy bars. It can only
be explored on foot, after
alighting tram No. 28.
ESCAPE An
interesting day
out is a visit to the
fortifi cations built in
the early 1800s on the
orders of Wellington,
to stop Napoleon in his
Peninsula Campaign.
A pleasant trip might
be to Arruda dos
Vinhos, where there are
a couple of excellent
restaurants (O Fuso and
O Nazareth). Two of the
forts, Forte do Carvalho
and Forte do Cego, are
well signposted from
the town, which is about
an hour from Lisbon.
NO WAY!
The Águas Livres
aqueduct, built in the
mid-18th century,
amazingly survived
the devastating
1755 earthquake.
Jonathan Weightman
HOTEL
LUTECIA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
The smart, urban and
modern Hotel Lutecia
offers the perfect place
to stay and relax after
exploring the city.
Breakfast Included.
From €89, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Liverpool
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bodrum, Bordeaux,
Brussels, Dubrovnik,
Faro, Fuerteventura,
Geneva, Grenoble,
Ibiza, Innsbruck, Isle of
Man, Jersey, Krakow,
Lanzarote, Lisbon, Lyon,
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,
Malta, Menorca, Naples,
Nice, Paris (CDG),
Rhodes, Salzburg, Tallinn
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
SINCE
1997
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
The 500 departs
every 30 minutes
for the city centre.
Tickets: £2.60.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Egg
Café (2nd Floor, 16–18
Newington, tel: 0151
707 2755) It’s worth the
climb up two fl ights of
stairs for Egg’s happy,
welcoming ambience.
Take your own wine
(there’s a small corkage
charge) to accompany
the top-value vegetarian
food. Many of the dishes,
including the aubergine
curry, are vegan, and
they also serve fabulous,
home-baked cakes.
UP TO €30 Salt
House Tapas (Salt
House, Hanover Street,
tel: 0151 706 0092) The
service is outstanding at
this very modern tapas
bar in a characterful
listed building, once the
home of the Archdeacon
of Liverpool. Look out
for the acorn-fed Iberico
hams, roasted butternut
squash with goats curd
and spiced almond
crumbs, plus good
Spanish wines
and sherries.
UP TO €50 The
Side Door (29A Hope
Street, tel: 0151 709
3924) Located in the
city’s so-called cultural
quarter, The Side Door
is friendly and intimate,
and merits an entry in
the latest Good Food
Guide. The bistro menu
puts emphasis on
locally supplied produce
and encompasses
delights like slowcooked
hake fi llet with
potatoes and peppers.
EXCLUSIVE The
Swan Inn (Springfi eld
Road, Aughton,
Ormskirk, tel: 01695
421 450) Celebrity chef
Marco Pierre White
promises “affordable
glamour” at this, one of
his newest restaurants,
amid crisp white linen
and swish surroundings,
just 30 minutes by
car, or a 20-minute
walk from Town Green
Station. A brasserie-style
menu blends traditional
pub fare with English-
French cooking.