november-2010

SHORTS | EURO GOSSIP
WORD OF
MOUTH
High
Steaks
The chef is an artist
and meat is
a religion at the
world's best
steak restaurant
ASTURIAS
If you were tasked
with fi nding the
ultimate steak,
you’d be forgiven
for starting your
search in New York,
Buenos Aires or
Paris. But you’re
in for a surprise:
Spain is the new
mecca for those
in search of a cut
above the rest. In
recent months
critics and chefs
alike have been
getting their
chequered pants
in a twist about a
legendary bodega
on the outskirts
of León (less
than 90 minutes
from Asturias)
specialising in
traditional chuletón
– a melt-in-themouth
T-bone
steak. José Gordón
Ferrero, owner
and head chef
at El Capricho
(Paraje de las
Bodegas, Jiménez
de Jamuz, tel:
+34 987 664 224)
describes meat
as “a religion” and
is fast becoming
an international
oracle on all meat
matters. Served
in church-like
surroundings
where pilgrims
come from far and
wide to worship,
Ferrero’s steaks
have been hailed
the world’s very
best by a number
94 | TRAVELLER | 15 TH BIRTHDAY ISSUE
of international
publications,
including Time
magazine, Vogue
and the Guardian.
A large part
of El Capricho’s
success is Ferrero’s
respect for the
animals. Trained
in agriculture, his
love of livestock is
palpable. He travels
throughout Spain
and Portugal hand
selecting cows
and oxen that he
thinks are good
enough to serve at
his restaurant. He
is very particular in
his requirements
and will only
take cattle of a
certain breed, age
and character.
According to
Ferrero, animals
(like people and
fi ne wines) gain
in complexity and
depth over time.
On the El Capricho
ranch there are
cows as old as 13
years – a rare fi nd
in an industry in
which valuable
meat is seldom
allowed to live
beyond three years.
Ferrero says:
“I am not an
economist or a
businessman, I
am an artist.” He
believes wholeheartedly
in his
instinctive ability
to judge the nature
of each animal.
Even if the cow is
of the requisite age
and breed, it will
not be used if he
feels it hasn’t been
raised in a way
that ensures it is
“noble and happy”.
The chosen few
are ushered into
retirement and left
to pasture for up
to four years on
land close to the
restaurant. Postslaughter,
the meat
is cooled gradually
and hung for three
months, allowing
water to drain away
and the fl avours to
intensify.
When ordering
your steak at El
Capricho, you
won't be asked
how you would like
it cooked. Ferrero
has experimented
long and hard to
get the best from
his meat, so your
trust should lie
with him. Steaks
arrive sizzling, but
practically raw in
the middle. Ferrero
warns potential
diners that service
and style are not
paramount at
El Capricho, but
his nose-to-tail
attitude to eating
ensures that
anyone can afford
to come and enjoy
the world’s best
steak – he has a
dish to suit any
budget from €20
to €600.
Clare Considine