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THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE

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influences, such as incorrect exposure<br />

or exhausted chemicals.<br />

Try this method, counting<br />

slowly from 1 to 5: On 1, twist<br />

the tank clockwise. On 2, twist it<br />

counter-clockwise. On 3, turn it<br />

upside down. On 4, turn it right<br />

side up. On 5, bang it down on<br />

a hard surface.<br />

4. Begin pouring the developer out<br />

of the tank 15 seconds before the<br />

end of the processing time.<br />

Unless instructed to do otherwise,<br />

pour the developer down the<br />

drain. You generally will not<br />

want to use it again.<br />

5. Immediately after pouring all the<br />

developer out, fill the tank with<br />

the pre-mixed stop bath, cap the<br />

tank and agitate it once.<br />

6. Leave the film in the stop bath<br />

for about 30 seconds, with some<br />

agitation. Then pour it down the<br />

drain.<br />

7. Fill the tank with fixer and<br />

follow the timing and agitation<br />

instructions.<br />

The same rules apply to fixing as<br />

to developing: Follow the instructions<br />

exactly. Though precise timing<br />

is less important with the<br />

fixer, you should not a/low yourself<br />

to get careless. Poorly fixed<br />

film will be just as ruined as<br />

poorly developed film.<br />

Generally, you will fix the film<br />

for about 5 minutes, agitating for<br />

10 seconds at I-minute intervals.<br />

You may open the film canister<br />

in dim light during fixing. However,<br />

try to resist the urge to<br />

"peek." If you've messed up the<br />

processing, there's nothing you<br />

can do about it now.<br />

8. Pour out the fixer.<br />

You may want to re-use your<br />

fixer. Do not, however, mix used<br />

and fresh fixer unless specifically<br />

instructed to do so. (It's a/I right<br />

to do this if all the fixer will be<br />

used and disposed of within a relatively<br />

short period of time. It's<br />

not all right if it will be stored for<br />

a while.)<br />

9. Wash the film for the specified<br />

time.<br />

The simplest way to do this is to<br />

remove the lop and place the tank<br />

under running water, draining it<br />

at regular intervals to ensure a<br />

complete wash.<br />

10. Soak the film in the wetting<br />

agent.<br />

Do not remove the film from the<br />

reel yet. Just pour the wetting<br />

agent into the developing tank<br />

after pouring out the water.<br />

Plunge the reel up and down a<br />

few times to ensure that the film<br />

is evenly coated. Lift the reel out<br />

of the tank and shake it gently.<br />

Pour the wetting agent back into<br />

its container if you plan to use it<br />

again soon; otherwise discard it.<br />

11. Remove the film from the reel<br />

and hang it up to dry in a dustfree<br />

space.<br />

Hang the film so the last frame<br />

is at the top (which will make it<br />

easier to file once it's dry). Let the<br />

film dry overnight, and do not<br />

touch it again until it is dry.<br />

The "dust wars" begin as soon<br />

as you hang your film up to dry.<br />

If the drying area is kept absolutely<br />

clean, you'll have a good<br />

head start. If, on the other hand,<br />

it's even slightly dusty, you'll<br />

probably never win. If your film<br />

has dust on it after drying, try to<br />

think of ways to correct the problem,<br />

or locate a better drying<br />

space.<br />

12. Cut the film into strips and insert<br />

them into a negative file.<br />

You have not finished processing<br />

your film until this vital step is<br />

complete. Never leave processed<br />

film hanging or rolled up or lying<br />

around any longer than absolutely<br />

necessary. (The dust wars<br />

require constant vigilance.)<br />

Using the Negative File<br />

Negative files generally hold either 5<br />

or 6 frames per row and have 7 rows<br />

per sheet. The 5-frame-per-row<br />

variety with holes to fit a standard<br />

3-ring binder is very handy. Unfortunately,<br />

it holds only 35 exposures,<br />

so you'll probably want to limit<br />

yourself to 35 shots per roll of film,<br />

so you don't have one too many<br />

frames for the file. The easiest way<br />

to do this is to advance the film until<br />

the frame-counter reads "2" before<br />

you take your first shot. You can<br />

then trim off the excess leader after<br />

processing, and you won't have to<br />

remember to stop at your 35th shot.<br />

To use the file, fill in the label area<br />

with the date, assignment and file<br />

number, using a ball-point pen.<br />

While the film is still hanging, cut<br />

off the leader (which should be at the<br />

bottom). Then count the number of<br />

frames that your file holds per row<br />

(5 or 6) and cut them off. Take care<br />

to cut precisely along the narrow<br />

band between frames, so you don't<br />

trim off part of the image area.<br />

With the label of the file facing<br />

you, slip the film into the first row<br />

with the "hump" up (i.e., with the<br />

emulsion side down). Repeat until the<br />

whole roll has been placed in the file.<br />

Processing 231

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