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THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE

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The Darkroom<br />

Light Baffles, top view<br />

18<br />

Every photographer dreams of the perfect darkroom, and most of us manage<br />

to make do with a merely adequate substitute. The main reason for this<br />

is that a first-rate darkroom is very expensive to build, equip and maintain.<br />

Ultimately, however, there's only one thing that really matters: dust. If<br />

you can't keep dust under control, it will consistently sabotage your ability<br />

to teach good darkroom skills and undermine your students' efforts to produce<br />

high-quality prints. Nothing is more frustrating (and more damaging<br />

to a student's desire to learn) than spending hours in the darkroom laboring<br />

with painstaking care over a single print, only to discover a motley collection<br />

of white specks all over it once it's brought into the full light of day.<br />

Knowing the importance of effective dust-control is one thing; achieving<br />

it is another. Here again (unless you are very lucky or endowed with a luxurious<br />

budget) you will probably have to accept some compromises. But you<br />

will have a distinct advantage if you recognize dust as your sworn enemy<br />

and vigilantly pursue it.<br />

Begin by limiting the surfaces and nooks and crannies where dust can<br />

collect. Install no more shelving than you actually need (or remove whatever<br />

excess may already be in place). A good basic darkroom requires only<br />

a single counter top to support the enlarger(s), a large sink and enough space<br />

for processing trays (in the sink if it's big enough). Reduce clutter to a strict<br />

minimum. Store papers and all non-essential equipment (extra enlarger<br />

lenses, etc.) in file cabinets or any other available containers. Keep nothing<br />

in the actual darkroom space that doesn't absolutely belong there; cram the<br />

overflow into a closet somewhere else. It is perilously easy to let odds and<br />

ends begin to collect in a darkroom, so a periodic "spring cleaning" is highly<br />

recommended.<br />

All surfaces should be non-porous, to ensure that chemicals — and dust<br />

— can be wiped away. (Uncovered concrete and wood are especially undesirable.)<br />

All cracks should be carefully caulked. This will also assist in controlling<br />

culprit number two: light leaks.<br />

Light and dust traps should be installed along the edges of all doors (insulation<br />

kits available in any hardware store work fine). Any windows should<br />

of course be thoroughly blacked out and sealed shut. Linoleum is probably<br />

the best surface for the floor (again, avoid exposed concrete). Ideally, walls<br />

will be painted white (enamel or other easily cleaned paint is best), as this<br />

will make any residue more visible.<br />

BLACK<br />

VINYL-COATED If the size and layout of your darkroom space permit, it is a good idea to<br />

construct a light baffle, so students can come and go without letting light<br />

slip in (disastrous for prints in progress and opened boxes of photo-paper).<br />

One reasonably simple procedure is to hang three or more floor-to-ceiling<br />

strips of black, opaque fabric (coated with plastic if possible) in overlapping

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