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THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE

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camera or are being careless during<br />

processing. It's a good idea to blow<br />

and brush the camera's interior from<br />

time to time. Be especially careful not<br />

to load or unload film in a strong<br />

dusty wind.<br />

IN PROCESSING<br />

If you're at all prone to anxiety, then<br />

processing film is likely to be a<br />

nightmare for you. All those precious<br />

images sit soaking inside a little metal<br />

or plastic tank. You can't see what's<br />

going on and any mistake may result<br />

in utter disaster. Rest assured that,<br />

sooner or later, you will ruin a roll.<br />

Try to accept it as a learning experience,<br />

as your photographic dues.<br />

It happens to all of us.<br />

Streaks<br />

The most common cause of streaking<br />

in a negative is incorrect agitation.<br />

If you agitate the film too little<br />

during processing, you're likely to get<br />

vertical streaks (running across each<br />

frame) that line up with the sprocket<br />

holes. If you agitate too much, you're<br />

likely to get horizontal streaks (running<br />

along the edge of the film<br />

lengthwise). Both are caused by inconsistencies<br />

in the rate at which<br />

bromide in the developer is refreshed.<br />

The solution is simple: once you<br />

establish an agitation pattern that<br />

works for you, stick to it.<br />

If you are quite certain that you are<br />

agitating the film correctly, you have<br />

been using old or contaminated<br />

chemicals. Replace them.<br />

Polka Dots<br />

If your film comes out of processing<br />

looking like it has a bad case of<br />

chicken pox, you probably are having<br />

trouble with air bubbles. When an<br />

air bubble attaches itself to the film,<br />

it blocks out the developer. As a<br />

result, the film under the bubble<br />

doesn't develop. To avoid this,<br />

remember to bang the developing<br />

tank good and hard after each<br />

agitation.<br />

Fogging<br />

If large patches of your negative, including<br />

the narrow band between<br />

frames, are cloudy (i.e. dark gray<br />

even in the lightest areas), you almost<br />

certainly have a light leak. Check out<br />

your darkroom by closing the door<br />

and turning off all the lights. After<br />

three minutes, stretch your hand out.<br />

You should not be able to see it. If<br />

you can see it, try to find out where<br />

the light is coming from. Look along<br />

the edges of any doors and windows.<br />

Check to see if any darkroom equipment<br />

is glowing too brightly (indicator<br />

lights on your enlarger timer?<br />

a glowing radio dial?). Also examine<br />

your processing tank to be sure it<br />

hasn't developed any light leaks.<br />

Have any portions of the light trap<br />

inside the tank broken off? Is the<br />

cover not sealing properly?<br />

White Blotches<br />

If your negative comes out looking<br />

like irrefutable proof of UFOs, you<br />

probably failed to load the film properly<br />

onto the developing reel. If the<br />

film is stuck together during loading,<br />

it can produce an airtight seal which,<br />

like air bubbles, prevents development.<br />

Little crescent moons are<br />

caused by bending the film. The only<br />

solution is to be as careful as possible<br />

when loading, and to practice<br />

with blank rolls until you can load<br />

correctly every time.<br />

Scratches<br />

You have many opportunities to<br />

scratch your film. The first is when<br />

you remove it from the canister. Be<br />

sure the film is wound tightly enough<br />

to slide out all together. The outside<br />

of the roll (the leader) is not being<br />

developed, so be sure it is protecting<br />

the rest of the roll. Your second<br />

scratch opportunity is when you<br />

transfer the roll onto the developing<br />

spool. Good ways to scratch the film<br />

at this stage include bumping or<br />

sliding it against a table or other surface,<br />

letting one part of the film edge<br />

scrape along another portion of the<br />

emulsion, or running your fingers<br />

along the emulsion (inner) surface.<br />

Once the film is in the developing<br />

tank, it is relatively impossible to<br />

scratch. Your next big chance comes<br />

when you hang it up to dry. Squeegees<br />

are the best tool for scratching.<br />

Just squeeze good and hard and<br />

you're certain to destroy the entire<br />

roll. Finally, any time the film is out<br />

of its negative file it stands an excellent<br />

chance of being scratched.<br />

Particularly effective techniques include<br />

dropping it on the floor (stepping<br />

on it just about guarantees complete<br />

destruction), sliding it through<br />

a closed negative holder, leaving it<br />

unprotected while you go out for a<br />

snack, and trying to rub dust off with<br />

a cloth that could pass for sandpaper.<br />

Processing 241

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