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THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE

THE PHOTOGRAPHIC EYE

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To avoid confusion, do not add<br />

pieces of other rolls to the file even<br />

if you have plenty of extra space<br />

in it. Don't mark the file to indicate<br />

which frames to print or how to<br />

crop them. That's what the contact<br />

sheet is for.<br />

PRINTING<br />

Tools<br />

• Photographic Paper<br />

Photographic paper is functionally<br />

the same as film, except it has opaque<br />

paper instead of clear film for its<br />

backing. Like film, it is coated with<br />

silver crystals which turn black when<br />

they are exposed to light and processed.<br />

However, the coating on<br />

photo paper reacts far more slowly<br />

than that on film.<br />

Photo paper is graded according to<br />

its contrast. Contrast grades are<br />

generally numbered from 0 to 5 —the<br />

higher the number, the higher the<br />

contrast. In some cases, descriptive<br />

words, such as soft (low contrast) and<br />

hard (high contrast) may be used to<br />

indicate contrast grades. Or you can<br />

use a variable contrast paper with<br />

filters to yield a range of contrasts.<br />

In addition, the surface texture,<br />

image tone, base tints and weight<br />

may be indicated either with a code<br />

or a few descriptive words. Surface<br />

texture descriptions include glossy<br />

(smooth and shiny), matte (textured<br />

and dull) and lustre (in between<br />

glossy and matte). Image tone<br />

depends on the chemistry of the<br />

emulsion, and ranges from "cold"<br />

blue-black to "warm" brown. Base<br />

tints, produced by dyes that affect the<br />

color of the paper, are described<br />

as white, warm-white, cream, etc.<br />

Finally, the weight of a paper indicates<br />

its thickness. For photo<br />

paper, this is generally expressed as<br />

232 The Photographic Eye<br />

"single-weight" (S) or "doubleweight"<br />

(D). (Resin coated paper,<br />

described later, comes only in<br />

"medium weight.")<br />

Most of this information may be<br />

compressed into a single code, such<br />

as F3 (in the Kodak code). In this<br />

case, the "F" stands for glossy and<br />

the "3" stands for moderate contrast.<br />

Whatever brand of paper you use,<br />

familiarize yourself with its code. As<br />

time and money permit, experiment<br />

with a variety of contrast grades and<br />

surfaces. To begin with, however, a<br />

glossy and moderate-to-high contrast<br />

(#3 or #4) paper should suit your purposes<br />

well. (#2 is considered "normal"<br />

contrast.)<br />

• Enlarger<br />

The enlarger is essentially a camera<br />

in reverse. It projects light back<br />

through the negative and focuses it<br />

onto a sheet of light-sensitive paper<br />

which, when processed, produces a<br />

positive image.

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