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The universal geography : earth and its inhabitants

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GEOLOGY AND SURFACE FEATUEES. 11<br />

bleak <strong>and</strong> treeless, as are those in the north, but they yield copper, tin, <strong>and</strong> lead,<br />

<strong>and</strong> between them lie broad pasture-l<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> fruitful valleys.*<br />

A broad expanse of comparatively level l<strong>and</strong> separates the barren jjalajozoic<br />

mountain ranges of Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales from the upl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> plains which occupy<br />

the entire eastern part of the country. Spreading over the whole of Central<br />

Engl<strong>and</strong>, this level tract extends along the eastern foot of the Pennine range to<br />

the coast of Yorkshire, merges on the west into the wide plain of Cheshire <strong>and</strong><br />

Lancashire, <strong>and</strong> can be traced southwards into the valley of the Severn, <strong>and</strong> beyond,<br />

through the vale of Taunton <strong>and</strong> other low-lying districts, to the south coast of<br />

Devonshire. Nearly the whole of this extensive region is occiipied by the s<strong>and</strong>-<br />

stones, limestones, clays, <strong>and</strong> marls of the triassic <strong>and</strong> liassic formations, the<br />

harder of these rocks often rising into minor escarpments facing westwards, <strong>and</strong><br />

overlooking rich undulating meadow l<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> cultivated fields.<br />

On the east these plains <strong>and</strong> undulating grounds are bounded by an oolitic<br />

limestone range, which traverses Engl<strong>and</strong> from the coast of Dorsetshire to the<br />

estuary of the Tees, presenting a bold escarjDment towards the west, on ascending<br />

which we find ourselves upon an undulating table-l<strong>and</strong>, mostlj^ occupied by sheep<br />

pastures. <strong>The</strong> Cotswold Hills, which bound the vale of Gloucester, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

moorl<strong>and</strong>s of Yorkshire, far away in the north, both belong to this formation.<br />

Around the "Wash it disappears beneath the alluvial flats of the Bedford level, but<br />

everywhere else it dips below the chalk, which forms so prominent a feature in<br />

the physical <strong>geography</strong> of South-eastern Engl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

<strong>The</strong> chalk, like the oolitic limestone, generally presents a bold escarpment<br />

towards the west. It is most extensively developed on the plain of Salisbury.<br />

From this, as a centre, the ranges of chalk diverge in different directions. <strong>The</strong><br />

South Downs stretch along the coast of the Channel as far as Beachy<br />

Head. <strong>The</strong> North Downs bound the valley of the Thames on the south, <strong>and</strong><br />

terminate in the cliffs of Dover. A third range extends to the north-eastward,<br />

forming the Marlborough Downs, the Chiltern Hills, <strong>and</strong> the East Anglian<br />

Heights, which terminate with Hunstanton Cliff, at the mouth of the "W'ash, but<br />

once again rise to the north of that shallow bay in the wolds of Lincoln <strong>and</strong><br />

York.<br />

Clays, s<strong>and</strong>s, limestones, <strong>and</strong> crag of the tertiary age overlie the chalk in the socalled<br />

basins of London <strong>and</strong> Hampshire ; but between the North <strong>and</strong> South Downs<br />

the chalk has been removed by denudation, <strong>and</strong> the subjacent strata which occupy<br />

the district known as the Weald have been laid bare. Bounded by escarpments of<br />

* Culminating summ<strong>its</strong> of mountain groups of Great Britain :<br />

Northern Highl<strong>and</strong>s, Ben WyTis 3,422 feet.<br />

Grampians, Ben lS!'e%'i3 4,406 „<br />

„ Ben Muich (Mac) Dhui 4,296 „<br />

Hills of South Scotl<strong>and</strong>, Merrick 2,764 „<br />

„ „ Cheviot 2,669 „<br />

Pennine Chain, Cross FeU 2,928 „<br />

Cambrian mountains, Sea FeU 3,230 „<br />

"Welsh mountains, Snowdon 3,590 „<br />

Mountains of Devonshire <strong>and</strong> Cornwall, Yes Tor (Dartmoor) . . . 2,077 ,,<br />

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