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The universal geography : earth and its inhabitants

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DUEHAM. 291<br />

<strong>The</strong> only place of note along the rather tame coast between Hartlepool <strong>and</strong><br />

Sunderl<strong>and</strong> is Seaham, near which are important collieries.<br />

<strong>The</strong> river Wear, with all <strong>its</strong> tributaries, lies wholly within the county of Durham.<br />

Rising near the Kilhope Law, it first flows through the weird <strong>and</strong> picturesque<br />

TTeardale, <strong>and</strong> tlien, forcing <strong>its</strong>elf a passage through a succession of gorges, finds<br />

<strong>its</strong> way to the German Ocean. Castles <strong>and</strong> parks are numerous along <strong>its</strong> banks,<br />

<strong>and</strong> alternate with collieries <strong>and</strong> iron works, but notwithst<strong>and</strong>ing manufactories<br />

<strong>and</strong> the unsightly heaps of slags, <strong>its</strong> valley still remains the Arcadia of Engl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

Stanhope, in the upper part of the valley, depends upon the lead mines <strong>and</strong><br />

quarries in <strong>its</strong> neighbourhood. On reaching Wokinghatu we first enter the coal<br />

<strong>and</strong> iron region. All around it, as well as about Towlaw, to the north-east of it,<br />

coal, iron, <strong>and</strong> limestone are found in abundance. Bishop Auckl<strong>and</strong>, prettily<br />

seated on a hill, has an old castle, one of the manorial residences of the ancient<br />

Bishops of Durham, st<strong>and</strong>ing in the midst of an extensive park. <strong>The</strong> bridge<br />

which spans the river at this town was built upon Roman foundations by Bishop<br />

Skirlaw in 1388. Collieries <strong>and</strong> iron works abound in the vicinity of Auckl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

one of their principal centres being Speiiiii/ Moor, to the north-east. <strong>The</strong> "Wear<br />

here abruptly turns to the northward <strong>and</strong> penetrates a narrow gorge, formerly<br />

defended by the Roman station of Vinotium, upon the site of which st<strong>and</strong>s the<br />

village of Binchester.<br />

On leaving the gorge the river once more winds between gentle hills until it<br />

approaches the bold promontory upon the summit of which rise proudly the Xorman<br />

cathedral <strong>and</strong> the keep of the castle built by "William the Conqueror, <strong>and</strong> which<br />

subsequently became the residence of the bishops. Since 1833 the castle has been<br />

occupied by a university, which Cromwell intended to establish, <strong>and</strong> which owes <strong>its</strong><br />

origin to the enormous increase in the revenues of Durham Cathedral, mainly<br />

derived from collieries. <strong>The</strong> University of Durham enjoys the same privileges as<br />

Oxford <strong>and</strong> Cambridge. It possesses a library rich in precious manuscripts, a<br />

museum, <strong>and</strong> an observatory, <strong>and</strong> students are able to pursue their studies at a far less<br />

expense than either at Oxford or Cambridge. Notwithst<strong>and</strong>ing this the university<br />

is very little frequented, <strong>and</strong> this appears to be owing to the servility with<br />

which the mechanical routine followed at the older universities has been copied.<br />

<strong>The</strong> organization of the University of Durham is altogether under the direction<br />

of the clergy, <strong>and</strong> the chapter of the cathedral virtually governs it.*<br />

Durham has carpet <strong>and</strong> woollen manufactories <strong>and</strong> iron works. Collieries<br />

are numerous in <strong>its</strong> vicinity. A few miles to the west of it st<strong>and</strong> the remains of<br />

Xeville's Cross, where the " Battle of the Red Hills " was fought in 1346. Some<br />

of the weapons used on that occasion are preserved at the ancient castle of the<br />

Nevilles at Brancepeth, to the south. Ascending the vaUey of the Browney,<br />

which joins the "V\'ear above Durham, we pass Ushaw College, a Roman Catholic<br />

seminary founded in 1808 on a bleak <strong>and</strong> barren hill, <strong>and</strong> finally reach the small<br />

colliery town of Lanchester, near which are extensive remains of the Roman<br />

station of Epideum.<br />

* Demogeot et Monlucci, ' De lEaEeignemeLt superieur en Angleterre et en Ecosse."

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