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THE YAKHA: CULTURE, ENVIRONMENT AND DEVELOPMENT IN ...

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friend of his. This annual military pageant "for the benefit of service<br />

charities and the encouragement of skill-at-arms" (to quote from the<br />

1991 Official Programme) had 16 items in the programme. Our host (who<br />

had been working at the Tournament for a week) turned to me during the<br />

interval and said he thought he had understood everything except for<br />

part of the display by the massed bands of the Cavalry and the Royal<br />

Tank Regiment when two people in fancy dress had been led on sitting in<br />

a horse-drawn cart, This had been a skit on the British TV show<br />

'Steptoe and Son', My difficulties in explaining the significance of<br />

this were probably no greater than those faced by the Yakha in answering<br />

many of the questions I had about their culture during fieldwork!<br />

Experiences and reminiscences tell us much about the impact of going<br />

abroad on what returning Gurkhas and their families subsequently do in<br />

the village. Some writers have suggested that returning 1Bhure become<br />

actively involved as leaders in their villages. To look at returnees to<br />

Tamaphok is probably a biased sample since some Gurkha lahure had not<br />

returned, instead taking advantage of their savings by buying property<br />

in the Tarai or Kathmandu. However, of those that had come back, while<br />

the pradhan pg-c was an ex-Gurkha, none of the other ex-Gurkhas held any<br />

sort of high office. Their pensions and savings generally guaranteed<br />

them a reasonable lifestyle and, in some cases, a significant economic<br />

influence in the community, but apart from this their position was no<br />

different from any other returning migrants, They usually had a<br />

sophisticated knowledge of British drinks, and often brought out<br />

postcards to show us; pictures included the royal family, the stables<br />

and riding school at Windsor Castle, and a high-wire act. These were<br />

then put back in their box. It was as if, like many anthropologists,

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