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The Anthropology Of Genocide - WNLibrary

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296 genocide’s wake<br />

and continue today—let alone what those years would hold. I knew immediately<br />

that I had entered an unusual community, but I didn’t realize right away the ways<br />

in which that community would become part of my life.<br />

On that first trip, the dense green canopy of the virgin rain forest still surrounded<br />

the village. Conditions were harsh and resources meager when I arrived, but the<br />

spirit was remarkable and the enthusiasm infectious. It had taken a grueling hike<br />

on a jungle path over the rough terrain to get there, but it turned out to be far harder<br />

emotionally to leave. During the 1970s, I was amazed at the village’s success and<br />

spirit and all too aware of the encroaching military. I remembered those dreams<br />

in the mid-1980s as I walked over the ashes of what the army had incinerated and<br />

then watched the slow, demanding process of rebuilding. I traveled back and forth<br />

between the village and the refugee camps in Mexico, often providing the only<br />

source of news between families torn asunder by events, carrying photos I took,<br />

carefully folded letters, cassette tapes, and treasured keepsakes. In the 1990s, the return<br />

of the refugees from Mexico once again offered a moment of hope in a context<br />

of continued apprehension.<br />

Prior to the January 1970 morning on which the first pioneers set off to establish<br />

the village, generations of highland peasants had been losing ground as cornfields<br />

were divided and divided again and as land became exhausted and eroded. Economic<br />

desperation in their highland ancestral homes made peasants ever more dependent<br />

on wage labor in the sprawling southern-coast plantations. <strong>The</strong>re, mostly<br />

Mayan laborers cut sugar cane, picked coffee, and harvested cotton, toiling for low<br />

pay in slavelike, disease-ridden conditions. For many, the lack of land and the<br />

dreaded plantation labor conspired to create a spiral of desperation where the harder<br />

one worked, the further one sank. Following the overthrow of the democratically<br />

elected Arbenz government in 1954, a succession of generals, either in the presidential<br />

office or controlling it, made reform impossible and land reform, in particular,<br />

a dangerous subject. Under those circumstances, the forgotten, dense, isolated<br />

rain forest in the north offered the tantalizing hope of land at the same time that it<br />

posed seemingly insurmountable challenges.<br />

<strong>The</strong> social and political problems of the village, and Guatemala more generally,<br />

were framed by the Cold War (Immerman 1982; Schlesinger and Kinzer 1982; Mc-<br />

Clintock 1985; Gleijeses 1991). A rich ethnographic literature has explored issues of<br />

cultural identity and transformation in the context of village life in Guatemala (Brintnall<br />

1979; Warren 1978, 1992; Nash 1967; Melville and Melville 1971; Falla 1978;<br />

Annis 1987; Smith 1984, 1990; Adams 1970; Berryman 1984; Watanabe 1992). Less<br />

explored has been the experience of the Mayans during the past two decades, which<br />

has been so shaped by conflict and traumatized by atrocity (Stoll 1993; Falla 1994;<br />

Manz 1988a, 1988b, 1988c, 1995; Wilson 1995; Nelson 1999; Green 1999). Without<br />

question, the Cold War has provided the dominant context of contemporary<br />

Guatemala, but it is important not to overstate its role. <strong>The</strong> Cold War exacerbated,<br />

rather than created, the social, class, and ethnic tensions that have racked the country.<br />

<strong>The</strong> army and the economic oligarchy seized the opportunity of the Cold War

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