GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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120 Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol ANNEX I hb Breaking depth; water depth at which a wave of given height breaks — m hPa hectoPascal — unit of pressure H High pressure centre H – H Wave height — m (ft) Average wave height in a record — m (ft) Hb Breaker wave height — m (ft) Hc Characteristic wave height (average height of the larger well-formed waves, observed visually) — m (ft) Hcombined Wave height for total wave field — m (ft) Hmax, Hm, Hmax,3h Hm0 Maximum wave height for specified period of time — m (ft) Wave height derived from energy spectrum, approximately equal to – H1/3; Hm0 = 4 m 1/2 0 — m (ft) Hrms Root-mean-square wave height = (8 E/ρwg) 1/2 Hs — m (ft) Significant wave height = Hm0 or – H1/3, according to specification — m (ft) HsN, Hs50 N-year, 50-year return value of Hs — m (ft) Hsea Wind wave height — m (ft) Hswell Swell height — m (ft) Hz Zero-crossing wave height (the vertical distance between the highest and lowest value of the – H1/n – H1/3 wave record between two zero-downcrossings or upcrossings) The average height of the 1/n highest waves — m (ft) Significant wave height: average of the 1/3 highest waves in a record (approximates to the characteristic wave height) — m (ft) Hz Hertz, measure of frequency = 1 cycle per second — s –1 HF High Frequency HMSO Her Majesty's Stationary Office (UK) I, (ui, vi) Isallobaric wind vector IAHR International Association for Hydraulic Research (Delft, Netherlands) J Wave power — kW/m (of wavefront) JMA Japan Meteorological Agency JONSWAP Joint North Sea Wave Proj ect k; k Wavenumber (2π/λ); vector wavenumber — m –1 km Unit of length, kilometre kn Unit of speed, knot (1.94 kn = 1 m/s) kW Unit of power, kilowatt K Mixing coefficient Kr Refraction factor Ks Shoaling factor KNMI Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute L Low pressure centre L Monin-Obukhov mixing length — m m Unit of length, metre mks Metric system of units based on the metre, kilogram and second as the units of length, mass and time; it forms the basis of the International System of Units (SI) mn The n-th order moment of the wave spectrum m0 Moment of zero order; represents the integral of a wave spectrum m/s Unit of speed, metre per second ME Mean error
Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol MOS Model output statistics n A given number of waves, years, etc. n(f,θ) Wave action density n Spatial variable normal to direction of travel n.mi. Unit of distance, nautical mile (one second of arc of latitude) N A given number (of waves, years, etc.) NDBC National Data Buoy Center (USA) NMC National Meteorological Centre NMS National Meteorological Service NOAA National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (USA) p Atmospheric pressure — hPa PM Pierson-Moskovitz PNJ Pierson, Neumann and James (wave forecasting method) Q(H) Probability of exceeding the wave height H Qp Spectral peakedness parameter Qb Fraction of breaking waves r Sample correlation (see also ρ) Radius of curvature of an isobar rad Unit of plane angle, radian (1 radian = 57.296 deg) Rp Range or distance to point "p" from storm front — m, km (n.mi.) RMS Root-mean-square RMSE Root-mean-square error s Unit of time, second s Spatial variable in direction of motion s Standard deviation of a distribution S(f); S(ω) Wave-spectral (variance) density as function of frequency; as a function of angular frequency S(ω) = S(f)/(2π) S Energy-balance equation: combined source terms Sin Energy-balance equation: input source term Sds Energy-balance equation: dissipation source term Snl Energy-balance equation: non-linear interaction source term Sbottom Energy-balance equation: bottom friction term Sbreaking Energy-balance equation: wave breaking in surf zone SAR Synthetic Aperture Radar SBWR Shipborne Wave Recorder SI Scatter index (ratio of rmse to mean) SSM/I Special Sensor Microwave/Imager SWAMP Sea Wave Modelling Project t Time variable — s, h T Wave period — s Temperature Tc Characteristic wave period — s (average period of the larger well-formed waves, observed T visually) – H1/n T Average period of the 1/n highest waves — s – H1/3 Significant wave period: average period of 1/3 highest waves — s Tm01 A mean period corresponding to inverse of mean frequency = m0/m1, — s A wave period from spectral moments = (m0/m2) 1/2; approximates T – z — s T m02 ANNEX I 121
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
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28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
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30 a general sense, and can be appl
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32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
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3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
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ange of directions. Also, waves at
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small enough that swell can survive
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Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
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4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
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necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
Page 79 and 80: in some applications, the zero up/d
Page 81 and 82: OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
Page 83 and 84: give large differences in the compa
Page 85 and 86: Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
Page 87 and 88: TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
Page 89 and 90: TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
Page 91 and 92: 7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
Page 93 and 94: water boundary into shallow water.
Page 95 and 96: eflected waves, although the latter
Page 97 and 98: Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
Page 99 and 100: 8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
Page 101 and 102: matter and timing the intervals bet
Page 103 and 104: a Directional Waverider (Barstow et
Page 105 and 106: 80°N 60°N 40°N 20°N 0° -20°S
Page 107 and 108: a combination of sea-surface temper
Page 109 and 110: 8.7.1 Digital analysis of wave reco
Page 111 and 112: 9.1 Introduction Chapter 8 describe
Page 113 and 114: Presentation of data and wave clima
Page 115 and 116: the monsoon season of June to Septe
Page 117 and 118: Probability of non-exceedance case
Page 119 and 120: individual wave height derived usin
Page 121 and 122: emote, data-sparse areas. However,
Page 123 and 124: TABLE 9.2 (cont.) Country Source of
Page 125 and 126: For a storm hindcast, select the mo
Page 127 and 128: TABLE 9.3 (cont.) Country Model use
Page 129: ANNEX I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SY
Page 133 and 134: CODE FORM: D . . . . D or IIiii* SE
Page 135 and 136: sensors, spectral peak wave period
Page 137 and 138: cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
Page 139 and 140: M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
Page 141 and 142: 1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
Page 143 and 144: The following distributions are bri
Page 145 and 146: 4. Weibull distribution Probability
Page 147 and 148: 8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
Page 149 and 150: ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
Page 151 and 152: ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
Page 153 and 154: REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
Page 155 and 156: REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
Page 157 and 158: REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
Page 159 and 160: REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan a
Page 161 and 162: Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
Page 163 and 164: SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: C
Page 165 and 166: 156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page 167 and 168: 158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .
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GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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