GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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FOREWORD The national Meteorological Services of a large number of maritime countries have, for many years now, been engaged in the provision of ocean wave forecast and hindcast services in support of the requirements of users in the whole range of maritime activities (shipping, fisheries, offshore mining, commerce, coastal engineering, construction, recreation, and so on). In recognition of this, and of the relative lack of easily accessible guidance material on wave forecasting methodology suitable for use by national Meteorological Services in developing countries, the WMO Guide to wave analysis and forecasting was prepared by a group of experts and published in 1988 as publication WMO-No. 702. This formal WMO Guide updated and replaced the earlier, very popular, WMO Handbook on the same subject, first published in 1976. In further recognition, both of the requirements of national Meteorological Services for the provision of ocean wave-related services and also of the rapid developments which were occurring in wave measurement, analysis and forecast techniques, the WMO Commission for Marine Meteorology (CMM) established in 1984 a WMO wave programme. The various elements of this programme are implemented, reviewed and updated by the CMM Subgroup on Wave Modelling and Forecasting. One of these elements involves the continuous review and revision, as necessary, of the Guide to wave analysis and forecasting. To this end, the sub-group established, in 1991, an ad hoc group of experts, under the chairmanship of Dr A. K. Laing (New Zealand), to undertake a complete revision and updating of the Guide, in the light of new developments and especially of feedback from users of the first edition. The international team of experts, directed by Dr Laing, individually prepared substantially revised versions of the different chapters of the Guide. These individual contributions were subsequently coordinated, assembled and edited by Dr Laing into a draft, which was then submitted to a wide network of wave experts for review and comment. Reviewers’ comments were incorporated to the extent possible and a final editing of a new, second edition of the Guide was made by Dr Laing. No publication such as this can ever be perfect, particularly in such a continuously developing field of science and technology, and further additions and modifications will undoubtedly be required in the future. Nevertheless, it is firmly believed that this second edition of the Guide to wave analysis and forecasting will continue to prove a very valuable publication in support of the marine services provided by WMO’s maritime Members. It is also believed that it continues to meet very well its two-fold objectives: to provide introductory but self-sufficient guidance material for use in the provision of basic wave forecast services, while at the same time acting as a source text and a guide to further reading on the subject. Detailed acknowledgements to authors are given with each section and chapter as appropriate, but I should like here, on behalf of the World Meteorological Organization, to express my sincere appreciation to all the experts (authors, reviewers and particularly Dr Laing) who have contributed so much to this important and valuable publication. (G. O. P. Obasi) Secretary-General
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of this Guide to wave analysis and forecasting has been very much a team effort, involving a number of experts from several countries in various aspects of ocean waves. Overall direction of the project has been undertaken by Dr Andrew Laing (New Zealand). The chapter editors/authors have had overall responsibility for the revision of each chapter and, in cases where substantial assistance has been given, co-authors are acknowledged. Much of the material is derived from the first edition of the Guide and the present editor would like to once again acknowledge the efforts put into that publication by the editor E. Bouws, and the chapter editors E. Bouws, L. Draper, A. K. Laing, D. J. T. Carter, L. Eide and J .A. Battjes. The present edition has been produced with specific attributions due to: • Overall direction and introduction: A. K. Laing, National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA), Wellington, New Zealand • Chapter 1: A. K. Laing, NIWA, Wellington, New Zealand • Chapter 2: W. Gemmill, National Meteorological Center (NMC), Washington D.C., USA • Chapter 3: A. K. Magnusson, Norwegian Meteorological Institute (DNMI), Bergen, Norway M. Reistad, DNMI, Bergen, Norway • Chapter 4: L. Burroughs, National Meteorological Center (NMC), Washington D.C., USA • Chapter 5: M. Reistad, DNMI, Bergen, Norway A. K. Magnusson, DNMI, Bergen, Norway • Chapter 6: M. Khandekar, Atmospheric Environment Service (AES), Toronto, Canada • Chapter 7: L. Holthuijsen, Delft Technical University, Delft, the Netherlands • Chapter 8: J. A. Ewing, United Kingdom D. J. T. Carter, Satellite Observing Systems, Godalming, Surrey, United Kingdom • Chapter 9: D. J. T. Carter, Satellite Observing Systems, Godalming, Surrey, United Kingdom V. Swail, Atmospheric Environment Service (AES), Toronto, Canada Illustrations have been acknowledged in the captions. Otherwise they have been taken from the previous edition of the Guide or specially prepared for this edition. Contact with contributors can be made through the Ocean Affairs Division of the WMO Secretariat. The Editor would like to thank the Secretariat staff who assisted in the preparation of this publication.
Page 1 and 2: WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
Page 3 and 4: © 1998, World Meteorological Organ
Page 5: IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
Page 9 and 10: VIII has been included particularly
Page 11 and 12: X considerable attention. Annex III
Page 13 and 14: 2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
Page 15 and 16: 4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
Page 17 and 18: 6 When waves propagate into shallow
Page 19 and 20: 8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
Page 21 and 22: 10 wavelengths in a given sea state
Page 23 and 24: 12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
Page 25 and 26: 14 in which E(f) is the variance de
Page 27 and 28: 16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
Page 29 and 30: 18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
Page 31 and 32: 20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
Page 33 and 34: 22 As a quick approximation of ocea
Page 35 and 36: 24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
Page 37 and 38: 26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
Page 39 and 40: 28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
Page 41 and 42: 30 a general sense, and can be appl
Page 43 and 44: 32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
Page 45 and 46: 3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
Page 47 and 48: ange of directions. Also, waves at
Page 49 and 50: small enough that swell can survive
Page 51 and 52: Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
Page 53 and 54: 4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
Page 55 and 56: necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
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in some applications, the zero up/d
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OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
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give large differences in the compa
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Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
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TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
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TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
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7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
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water boundary into shallow water.
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eflected waves, although the latter
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Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
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8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
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matter and timing the intervals bet
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a Directional Waverider (Barstow et
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80°N 60°N 40°N 20°N 0° -20°S
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a combination of sea-surface temper
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8.7.1 Digital analysis of wave reco
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9.1 Introduction Chapter 8 describe
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Presentation of data and wave clima
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the monsoon season of June to Septe
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Probability of non-exceedance case
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individual wave height derived usin
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emote, data-sparse areas. However,
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TABLE 9.2 (cont.) Country Source of
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For a storm hindcast, select the mo
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TABLE 9.3 (cont.) Country Model use
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ANNEX I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SY
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Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol MOS
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CODE FORM: D . . . . D or IIiii* SE
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sensors, spectral peak wave period
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cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
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M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
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1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
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The following distributions are bri
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4. Weibull distribution Probability
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8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
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ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
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ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
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REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
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REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
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REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
Page 159 and 160:
REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan a
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Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
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SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: C
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156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
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158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .
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GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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