GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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152 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING Vartdal, L., H. E. Krogstad and S. F. Barstow, 1989: Measurement of wave properties in extreme seas during the WADIC experiment. Proc. 21st Offshore Tech. Conf., Houston, Texas, May 1989. 73–82. Verploegh, G., 1967: Observation and analysis of the surface wind over the ocean. KNMI, Mededelingen en Verhandelingen, 89. Visser, P. J., 1984: Uniform longshore current measurements and calculations. Proc. 19th Coastal Engineering Conference, Houston, 2l92–2207. Vogel, J. A., A. C. Radder and J. H. de Reus, 1988: Verification of numerical wave propagation models in tidal inlets, Proc. 21st Coastal Engineering Conference, 433–447. WAMDI Group (S. Hasselmann, K. Hasselmann, E. Bauer, P. A. E. M. Janssen, G. Komen, L. Bertotti, P. Lionello, A. Guillaume, V. C. Cardone, J. A. Greenwood, M. Reistad, L. Zambresky, J. A. Ewing), 1988: The WAM model – a third generation wave prediction model, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 18, 1775–1810. Ward, E. G., L. E. Borgman and V. J. Cardone, 1978: Statistics of hurricane waves in the Gulf of Mexico. Proc. 10th Offshore Tech. Conf., Houston, Texas, III, 1523–1536 (OTC 3229). (Also in J. of Petroleum Technology, 1979, 632–642.) Wiegel, R. L., 1964: Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J. Wilkerson, J. C. and M. D. Earle, 1990: A study of differences between environmental reports by ships in the voluntary observing program and measured from NOAA buoys. J. Geophys. Res., 95, 3373–3385. Witter, D. L. and D. B. Chelton, 1991: A GEOSAT altimeter wind speed algorithm and a method for altimeter wind speed algorithm development. J. Geophys. Res., 96, 8853–8860. WMO, 1970: The Beaufort scale of wind force. Marine Science Affairs, 3 (out of print). WMO, 1976: Handbook on wave analysis and forecasting. WMO No. 446 (out of print). WMO, 1985, 1991, 1994(a): National reports on wave measuring techniques, numerical wave models and intercomparison. WMO Marine Meteorology and Related Oceanography Activities Report 12, & Suppls. 3, 4. WMO Wave Programme, WMO/TD-No. 35. WMO, 1988: Guide to wave analysis and forecasting. 1st edition. WMO No. 702, Geneva, Switzerland. WMO, 1990: Manual on marine meteorological services. 2nd edition. WMO No. 558, Geneva, Switzerland. WMO, 1994(b): Guide to the applications of marine climatology. WMO No. 781, Geneva, Switzerland. WMO, 1995: Manual on codes. WMO No. 306. WMO, 1996: Guide to meteorological instruments and methods of observation. WMO No. 8. Wu, J., 1980: Wind-stress coefficients over sea surface near neutral conditions: a revisit. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 10, 727–740. Wu, J., 1982: Wind-stress coefficients over sea surface from breeze to hurricane. J. Geophys. Res., 87, 9704–9706. Wyatt, L. R. and G. Holden, 1994: Limits in direction and frequency resolution for HF radar ocean wave directional spectra measurements. The Global Atmosphere-Ocean System, 2, 265–290. Wyatt, L. R., J. Venn, M. D. Moorhead, G. B. Burrows, A. M. Ponsford and J. van Heteren, 1985: HF radar measurements of significant wave height and mean period during NURWEC. In: Evaluation, comparison and calibration of oceanographic instruments. Advances in underwater technology and offshore engineering. Graham and Trotman, London, 209–222. Young, I. R. and G. J. Holland, 1996: Atlas of the oceans: wind and wave climate. Pergamon, 246 pp + CD-ROM.
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1973, 1977, 1984: Shore protection manual. Waterways Experiment Station, US Army Corps of Engineers. Crapper, G. D., 1984: Introduction to water waves. Publ. Ellis Harwood, 224 pp. Hogben, N., N. M. C. Dacunha and G. F. Olliver, 1986: Global wave statistics. Unwin Brothers for British Maritime Tech. Ltd. Kinsman, B., 1965: Wind waves, their generation and propagation on the ocean surface. Prentice-Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. Reprinted by Dover Publ. 1984, 676 pp. Khandekar, M. L., 1989: Operational analysis and prediction of ocean wind waves. Coastal and Estuarine Studies No. 33, Springer-Verlag, New York, 214 pp. Kitaigorodskii, S. A., 1970: The physics of air sea interaction. Gidrometeorologicheskoe Izdatel'stvo, Leningrad, (translated from Russian). Israel Programme for Scientific Translations, Jerusalem. Komen, G. J., L. Cavaleri, M. Donelan, K. Hasselmann, S. Hasselmann and P. A. E. M. Janssen, 1994: Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves. Cambridge University Press, 532 pp. Lighthill, J., 1978: Waves in fluids. Cambridge University Press, 504 pp. Massel, S. R., 1994: Ocean waves: their physics and prediction. World Scientific Publ., Advanced Series in Ocean Engineering, 350 pp. Pierson, W. J., G. Neumann, and R. W. James, 1955: Practical methods for observing and forecasting ocean waves by means of wave spectra and statistics. US Navy Hydrographic Office Pub., 603, 284 pp. Stoker, J. J., 1957: Water waves. Interscience, New York, 567 pp. Tucker, M. J. 1991: Waves in ocean engineering: measurement, analysis, interpretation. Ellis Horwood, Chichester, UK. 431 pp. Young, I. R. and G. J. Holland, 1996: Atlas of the oceans: wind and wave climate. Pergamon, 246 pp + CD-ROM.
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
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28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
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30 a general sense, and can be appl
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32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
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3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
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ange of directions. Also, waves at
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small enough that swell can survive
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Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
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4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
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necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
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in some applications, the zero up/d
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OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
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give large differences in the compa
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Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
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TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
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TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
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7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
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water boundary into shallow water.
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eflected waves, although the latter
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Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
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8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
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matter and timing the intervals bet
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a Directional Waverider (Barstow et
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80°N 60°N 40°N 20°N 0° -20°S
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a combination of sea-surface temper
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8.7.1 Digital analysis of wave reco
Page 111 and 112: 9.1 Introduction Chapter 8 describe
Page 113 and 114: Presentation of data and wave clima
Page 115 and 116: the monsoon season of June to Septe
Page 117 and 118: Probability of non-exceedance case
Page 119 and 120: individual wave height derived usin
Page 121 and 122: emote, data-sparse areas. However,
Page 123 and 124: TABLE 9.2 (cont.) Country Source of
Page 125 and 126: For a storm hindcast, select the mo
Page 127 and 128: TABLE 9.3 (cont.) Country Model use
Page 129 and 130: ANNEX I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SY
Page 131 and 132: Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol MOS
Page 133 and 134: CODE FORM: D . . . . D or IIiii* SE
Page 135 and 136: sensors, spectral peak wave period
Page 137 and 138: cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
Page 139 and 140: M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
Page 141 and 142: 1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
Page 143 and 144: The following distributions are bri
Page 145 and 146: 4. Weibull distribution Probability
Page 147 and 148: 8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
Page 149 and 150: ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
Page 151 and 152: ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
Page 153 and 154: REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
Page 155 and 156: REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
Page 157 and 158: REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
Page 159 and 160: REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan a
Page 161: Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
Page 165 and 166: 156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page 167 and 168: 158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .
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