GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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122 Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol Tm–10 Tp Ts ANNEX I T Energy wave period = m –1/m0, — s Peak period: wave period at the peak of the spectrum (modal period) — s Significant or peak period according to specification – z Average zero-crossing wave period in a record u; u Wind speed; wind velocity — m/s, (kn) U10 Wind speed at the 10 m level — m/s, (kn) Uz Wind speed level z — m/s, (kn) u * ; u * Friction speed / velocity = (τ/ρa) 1/2 (ug, vg), G; G Geostrophic wind velocity; speed — m/s, (kn) (ui, vi), I Isallobaric wind velocity UKMO United Kingdom Meteorological Office UTC Universal Time Coordinates VOS Voluntary Observing Ships WAM WAve Model (a specific third generation wave model) WAVEOB Code for interchange of wave observations X Fetch length — km (n.mi.) x; x Space variable; space vector y Space variable z Height variable z0 Roughness length α Scaling (Phillips’) parameter in model spectrum (= 0.0081 in Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum) Angle between wave front (crest) and isobath Charnock’s constant γ Peak-enhancement parameter in JONSWAP spectrum ε Spectral width parameter Dimensionless wave energy η(x,t) Elevation of water surface at position x and time t – η Mean water surface elevation θ Direction of wave propagation θd Vector mean wave direction κ von Karman constant (≅ 0 41) λ, λs Wavelength, wavelength of sea — m λr Radar wavelength ν Non-dimensional frequency π A constant; ≅ 3.14159 ρ Correlation coeffficient (r = sample correlation coefficient) ρ; ρw; ρa Density; density of water; density of air σ Wave frequency associated with a (current modified) wavenumber ξ Wave steepness (various definitions, see text) ω Angular frequency = 2πf τ Mean stress magnitude φ Phase of a sinusoidal wave ψ Stability function for atmospheric boundary layer Wind direction
CODE FORM: D . . . . D or IIiii* SECTION 0 MiMiMjMj A1bwnbnbnb or I1I2I2// ** YYMMJ GGgg/ or QcLaLaLaLa LoLoLoLoLo** 00IaImIp 1hhhh 2HsHsHsHs 3PpPpPpPp (4HmHmHmHm) (5PaPaPaPa) (6HseHseHseHse) (7PspPspPspPsp) (8PsaPsaPsaPsa) (9dddddsds) SECTION 1 (111B TB T SSSS/ D´D´D´D´/ BB/// 1f 1f 1f 1x 1f df df dx . . . . . BB/// nf nf nf nx nf df df dx) SECTION 2 (2222x C mC mC mn mn m 1c 1c 1c 2c 2 3c 3c 3c 4c 4 . . . . . n–1c n–1c n–1c nc n (or nc nc n//)) SECTION 3 (3333x CsmCsmCsmnsmnsm 1cs1cs1cs2cs2 3cs3cs3cs4cs4 . . . . . n–1csn–1csn–1csncsn (or ncsncsn//)) SECTION 4 (4444 1da1da1da2da2 1r 1r 1r2r2 2da1da1da2da2 2r1r1r2r2 . . . . . nda1da1da2da2 nr1r1r2r2) SECTION 5 (5555I b 1A 1A 1A 1x (1d 1d 1d sd s) 2A 2A 2A 2x (2d 2d 2d sd s) . . . . . nA nA nA nx (nd nd nd sd s)) NOTES: (1) WAVEOB is the name of the code for reporting spectral wave data from a sea station, or from an aircraft or satellite platform. (2) A WAVEOB report is identified by M iM iM jM j = MMXX. (3) The code form is divided into six sections (Sections 1 to 5 are optional): Section number Symbolic figure group Contents 0 — Data for reporting identification (type, buoy identifier, date, time, location), indication of frequency or wave number, method of calculation, type of station, water depth, significant wave height and spectral peak period, or wave length, and optional wave parameters 1 111 Sampling interval and duration (or length) of record, and description of measurement system bands –––––––––– * Included in a fixed sea station report only. ** Included in a sea station or remote platform report only. ANNEX II FM-65 IX WAVEOB REPORT OF SPECTRAL WAVE INFORMATION FROM A SEA STATION OR FROM A REMOTE PLATFORM (AIRCRAFT OR SATELLITE)
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
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28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
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30 a general sense, and can be appl
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32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
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3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
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ange of directions. Also, waves at
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small enough that swell can survive
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Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
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4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
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necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
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in some applications, the zero up/d
Page 81 and 82: OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
Page 83 and 84: give large differences in the compa
Page 85 and 86: Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
Page 87 and 88: TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
Page 89 and 90: TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
Page 91 and 92: 7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
Page 93 and 94: water boundary into shallow water.
Page 95 and 96: eflected waves, although the latter
Page 97 and 98: Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
Page 99 and 100: 8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
Page 101 and 102: matter and timing the intervals bet
Page 103 and 104: a Directional Waverider (Barstow et
Page 105 and 106: 80°N 60°N 40°N 20°N 0° -20°S
Page 107 and 108: a combination of sea-surface temper
Page 109 and 110: 8.7.1 Digital analysis of wave reco
Page 111 and 112: 9.1 Introduction Chapter 8 describe
Page 113 and 114: Presentation of data and wave clima
Page 115 and 116: the monsoon season of June to Septe
Page 117 and 118: Probability of non-exceedance case
Page 119 and 120: individual wave height derived usin
Page 121 and 122: emote, data-sparse areas. However,
Page 123 and 124: TABLE 9.2 (cont.) Country Source of
Page 125 and 126: For a storm hindcast, select the mo
Page 127 and 128: TABLE 9.3 (cont.) Country Model use
Page 129 and 130: ANNEX I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SY
Page 131: Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol MOS
Page 135 and 136: sensors, spectral peak wave period
Page 137 and 138: cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
Page 139 and 140: M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
Page 141 and 142: 1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
Page 143 and 144: The following distributions are bri
Page 145 and 146: 4. Weibull distribution Probability
Page 147 and 148: 8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
Page 149 and 150: ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
Page 151 and 152: ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
Page 153 and 154: REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
Page 155 and 156: REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
Page 157 and 158: REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
Page 159 and 160: REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan a
Page 161 and 162: Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
Page 163 and 164: SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: C
Page 165 and 166: 156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page 167 and 168: 158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .
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GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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