76 <strong>GUIDE</strong> TO <strong>WAVE</strong> <strong>ANALYSIS</strong> <strong>AND</strong> <strong>FORECASTING</strong> Figure 6.7 — Verification of global wave height field generated by the WAM model against wave heights measured by the radar altimeter aboard the satellite ERS-1 (radar altimeter wave heights from 25 September, 21 UTC, to 26 September 1992, 03 UTC; model field 26 September 1992, 00 UTC) (source: A. Guillaume, while at ECMWF, UK)
TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models operated by national Meteorological Services Country Name of model Area Grid Type of model Products Source of wind information AUSTRALIA WAM Global 3° x 3° Deep water, Forecasts (+12 to +48 h), significant wave, Australian global NWP model, GASP lat./long. coupled spectral swell and wind-sea height, period, direction WAM Australian region 1° x 1° Forecasts (+12 to +36 h) Australian regional NWP model RASP 80°E–180°, 0°–60°S lat./long. CANADA Canadian Spectral North Atlantic Coarse mesh Deep water, 4-panel charts (t + 0, 12, 24, 36) plots of swell Regional Finite Element (RFE) model Ocean Wave Model (1.08° long.) 1st generation height and period, wind-wave height and period, surface wind applicable at 10 m level (CSOWM) transverse spectral surface wind speed and direction, contours of Mercator significant wave height CSOWM North Pacific Coarse mesh Deep water, 4-panel charts (t + 0, 12, 24, 36) plots of swell Global spectral model 1 000 hPa winds (1.08° long.) 1st generation height and period, wind-wave height and period, transverse spectral surface wind speed and direction, contours of Mercator significant wave height OPERATIONAL <strong>WAVE</strong> MODELS 77 EUROPE WAM Global 1.5° x 1.5° Deep/shallow water 2-D spectra, significant wave height, mean direction, Surface winds (10 m) from ECMWF (EU) lat./long. modes, coupled peak period of 1-D spectra, mean wave period. T+0 analyses and forecasts spectral to T+120 at 6-h intervals; T+132 to T+240 at 12-h intervals. Outputs coded into FM 92-X Ext. GRIB WAM Baltic and 0.25° x 0.25° Same as global model except for T+0 to T+120 at Mediterranean lat./long. 6-h intervals FRANCE VAGMED Western 35 km polar Deep water, coupled Forecast every 3 h up to 48 h. Maps of wave Wind fields from the fine mesh model Mediterranean stereographic at discrete model height contours with swell and wind-sea directions. PERIDOT Sea 60°N Directional spectra (telex). Archive of analysed 2-D spectra and of forecast height fields VAGATLA North Atlantic 150 km polar Deep water, coupled Forecasts every 6 h up to 48 h. Maps of wave Wind fields from EMERAUDE model stereographic at discrete model, height contours with swell and wind-sea directions. 60°N 2nd generation Directional spectra (telex). Archive of analysed 2-D spectra and of forecast height fields GERMANY Deutscher Atlantic, north of Deep water, coupled Prognoses for 6 h, then at 12-h intervals to 96 h BKF model, 950 hPa level, diagnostically Wetterdienst 15°N hybrid run twice daily, verification only interpolated for about 20 m above sea AMT für North-east Atlantic, 50 km Continental shelf (1) Maps of wave and swell direction for south Reduced wind components of geopotential Wehrgeophysik southern Norwegian of North Sea, Norwegian Sea and North Sea – 24 h prognoses fields at 1 000 hPa from meteorological Sea, North Sea coupled hybrid (2) Wind direction and velocity, significant wave forecast model 7-LPE height, swell height, wave period, swell period – 24 h hindcast and forecast for nine geographic positions
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
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M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
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1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
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The following distributions are bri
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4. Weibull distribution Probability
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8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
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ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
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ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
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REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
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REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
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REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
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REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan a
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Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
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SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: C
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156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
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158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .