142 <strong>GUIDE</strong> TO <strong>WAVE</strong> <strong>ANALYSIS</strong> <strong>AND</strong> <strong>FORECASTING</strong> Fetch graph. Distorted co-cumulative spectra for wind speeds from 36 to 56 knots as a function of the fetch
REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Petersen and O. Skovgaard, 1978: Computations of short waves in shallow water. Proc. 16th Coastal Engineering Conference, Hamburg, Germany, 414–433. Abreu, M., A. Larazza and E. B. Thornton, 1992: Non-linear transformation of directional wave spectra in shallow water. J. Geophys. Res., 97(C10), 15,579–15,589. Allender, J., T. Audunson, S. F. Barstow, S. Bjerken, H. E. Krogstad, P. Steinbakke, L. Vartdal, L. Borgman and C. Graham, 1989: The WADIC Project: A comprehensive field evaluation of directional wave instrumentation. Ocean Engineering, 161, 505–536. AWS, 1995: Forecasters guide to tropical meteorology. Air Weather Service, Illinois, USA, AWS TR 240, Updated by Colin S. Ramage. August 1995, 462 pp. Bacon, S. and D. J. T. Carter, 1991: Wave climate changes in the North Atlantic and North Sea. Int. J. of Climatology, 11, 545–558. Barnett, T. P., 1968: On the generation, dissipation and prediction of ocean wind-waves. J. Geophys. Res., 73, 513–529. Barrick, D. E. and J. F. Gower (Eds.), 1986: Special issue on HF radar oceanography. IEEE Jour. Oceanic Eng., April l986. Barstow, S. F., 1995: Wave climate assessment by satellite remote sensing. Proc. Fifth International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf. (ISOPE-1995), The Hague, Netherlands, June 1995. Barstow, S. F. and T. Kollstad, 1991: Field trials of the Directional Waverider. Proc. First International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf. (ISOPE-1991), Edinburgh, Scotland, August 1991. Barstow, S. F., O. Haug and T. van der Vlugt, 1994(a): A field validation of a Directional Waverider in a SEAWATCH buoy. Proc. of the Oceans '94 Conf., Brest, France, Sept. 1993, Vol 2, 32–37. Barstow, S. F., T. I. Bern, S. Bjerken, T. I. Brate, O. Haug, O. G. Houmb and H. E. Krogstad, 1994(b): World wave climatologies from satellite altimeters. Proc. of the OCEANS '94 Conf., Brest, France, Sept. 1993, Vol. 2., 64–68. Battjes, J. A., 1972: Long-term wave height distributions at seven stations around the British Isles. Deut. Hydrogr. Z., 25(4), 179–189. Battjes, J. A. and J. P. F. M. Janssen, 1978: Energy loss and set-up due to breaking in random waves. Proc. 16th Coastal Engineering Conference, Hamburg, Germany, 569–587. Battjes, J. A., Y. Eldeberky and Y. Won, 1993: Spectral Boussinesq modelling of breaking waves. Proc. 2nd Int. Symp. on Ocean Wave Measurements and Analysis, New Orleans, USA, 813–820. Beale, R. C., 1981: Spatial evolution of ocean wave spectra. In: Spaceborne synthetic aperture radar for oceanography, R. Beale, P. De Leonibus, E. Katz (Eds), The Johns Hopkins Oceanographic Studies, 7, The Johns Hopkins University Press, 110–127. Bendat, J. S. and A. G. Piersol, 1971: Random data: analysis and measurement procedures. Wiley Interscience, New York. Berkhoff, J. C. W., 1972: Computation of combined refraction-diffraction. Proc. 13th Coastal Engineering Conference, 471–490. Bjerke, P. L. and K. Torsethaugen, 1989: Environmental conditions on the Norwegian Continental Shelf, Barents Sea. SINTEF NHL Report No. STF60 A89052, Trondheim, Norway. Blackadar, A. K., 1965: A simplified two-layer model of the baroclinic neutral atmospheric boundary layer. Air Force Cambridge Res. Lab. Report, 65-531, 49–65. Blackman, R. B. and J. W. Tukey, 1959: The measurement of power spectra from the point of view of communications engineering. Dover, New York.
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
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28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
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30 a general sense, and can be appl
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32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
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3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
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ange of directions. Also, waves at
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small enough that swell can survive
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Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
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4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
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necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
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in some applications, the zero up/d
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OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
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give large differences in the compa
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Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
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TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
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TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
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7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
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water boundary into shallow water.
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eflected waves, although the latter
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Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
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8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
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