GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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148 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING Jenkins, A. D., 1992: A quasi-linear eddy-viscosity model for the flux of energy and momentum to wind waves using conservation-law equations in a curvilinear coordinate system. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 22, 844–858. Jenkins, G. M. and D. G. Watts, 1968: Spectral analysis and its applications. Holden-Day. Jenkinson, A. F., 1955: The frequency distribution of the annual maximum (or minimum) values of meteorological elements. Quart. J. Royal Met. Soc., 81, 158–171. Johnson, N. L. and S. Kotz, 1970: Continuous univariate distributions. John Wiley and Sons, New York. Jones, W. L., L. C. Schroeder, D. H. Boggs, E. M. Bracalente, R. A. Brown, G. J. Dame, W. J. Pierson and F. J. Wentz, 1982: The SEASAT-A scatterometer: the geophysical evaluation of remotely sensed wind vectors over the ocean. J. Geophys. Res., 87(C5), 3297–3317. Kanamitsu, M., J. Alpert, K. Kampana, P. Caplan, D. Deaven, M. Iredell, B. Katz, H.-L. Pan, J. Sela and G. White, 1991: Recent changes implemented into the global forecast system at NMC. Weather and Forecasting, 6(3), 415–424. Khandekar, M. L., 1989: Operational analysis and prediction of ocean wind waves. Coastal and Estuarine Studies, No. 33, Springer-Verlag, 214 pp. Khandekar, M. L. and V. Swail, 1995: Storm waves in Canadian waters: A major marine hazard. Atmosphere-Ocean, 33, 329–357. Khandekar, M. L., R. Lalbeharry and V. Cardone, 1994: The performance of the Canadian Spectral Ocean Wave Model (CSOWM) during the Grand Banks ERS-1 SAR wave spectra validation experiment. Atmosphere-Ocean, 32, 31–60. Komen, G. J., S. Hasselmann, and K. Hasselmann, 1984: On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 14, 1271–1285. Komen, G. J., L. Cavaleri, M. Donelan, K. Hasselmann, S. Hasselmann and P. A. E. M. Janssen, 1994: Dynamics and modelling of ocean waves. Cambridge University Press, 532 pp. Krishna, K., 1981: A two-layer first order closure model for the study of the baroclinic atmospheric boundary layer. J. Atmos. Sci., 38, 1401–1417. Lacombe, H., 1965: Cours d’oceanographie physique, Gauthier-Villars, Paris, 392 pp. Laing, A. K., 1985: An assessment of wave observations from ships in southern oceans. J. Clim. Appl. Meteorol., 24, 481–494. Large, W. G. and S. Pond, 1981: Open ocean momentum flux measurements in moderate to strong winds. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 11(3), 324–336. Lazanoff, S. M. and N. Stevenson, 1975: An evaluation of a hemispherical operational wave spectra model. Tech. Note 75-3, Fleet Numerical Weather Central, Monterey, Calif. LeBlond, P. H. and L. A. Mysak, 1978: Waves in the ocean. Elsevier, Amsterdam. Lefevre, J. M., J. Barckicke and Y. Menard, 1994: A significant wave height dependent function for Topex/Poseidon wind speed retrieval. J. Geophys. Res., 99, 25035–25049. Lighthill, J., 1978: Waves in fluids. Cambridge University Press. Lionello, P., H. Gunther and P. A. E. M. Janssen, 1992: Assimilation of altimeter data in a global third generation wave model, Technical Report No. 67, European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts, ECMWF. Lindau, R., 1994: A New Beaufort Equivalent Scale. Proc. International COADS Wind Workshop, Kiel, Germany, May 1994, 232–249. Liu, W. T., K. B. Katsaros and J. A. Businger, 1979: Bulk parameterization of air-sea exchanges of heat and water vapour including the molecular constraints at the interface. J. Atmos. Sci., 36. 1722–1735. Long, P. E. et al., 1978: The state of the techniques development laboratory’s boundary layer model. NOAA Tech. Memorandum NWS TDL 66. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1952: On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves. J. Marine Res., 11, 245–266. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. and R. W. Stewart, 1962: Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with applications to “surf beats”. J. Fluid. Mech., 13, 481–504.
REFERENCES 149 Maat, N., C. Kraan and W. A. Oost, 1991: The roughness of wind waves. Boundary Layer Meteor., 54, 89–103. MacLaren Plansearch Ltd. and Oceanweather, Inc., 1992: Beaufort Sea extreme waves study. Environmental Studies Research Funds Report, ESRF-114. National Energy Board, Calgary, Alberta. Madsen, P. A., and O. R. Sorensen, 1993: Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water, J. Ocean Engineering, 20(4), 359–388. Mathiesen, M., Y. Goda, P. J. Hawkes, E. Mansard, M. J. Martin, E. Peltier, E. F. Thompson, and G. van Vledder, 1994: Recommended practice for extreme wave analysis. J. Hydr. Res., 32(6), 803–814. Mei, C. C., 1989: The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. World Scientific Publ., Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering – Volume 1, 740 pp. Mendenhall, B. R., 1967: A statistical study of frictional wind veering in the planetary boundary layer. Atmospheric Science Paper 116, Dept. of Atmos. Sci, Colorado State University. Mesinger, F., Z. I. Janjic, S. Nickovic and D. Gavrilov, 1988: The step-mountain coordinate: Model description and performance for cases of alpine lee cyclogenesis and for a case of an Applalachian redevelopment. Monthly Weather Review, 116, 1493–1518. Miles, J. W., 1957: On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech., 3, 185–204. Miles, J. W., 1960: On the generation of surface waves by turbulent shear flows. J. Fluid Mech., 7, 469–478. Mitsuyasu, H., F. Tasai, T. Suhara, S. Mizuno, M. Okhuso, T. Honda, and K. Rikiishi, 1975: Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 5, 750–760. Monin, A. S. and A. M. Obukhov, 1954: Basic laws of turbulent mixing in the ground layer of the atmosphere. Akad. Nauk. SSSR Geofiz. Inst. Tr., 151, 163–181. Munk, W. H., 1951: Origin and generation of waves. Proc. First Coastal Engineering Conference, Long Beach, Calif., 1–4. NOAA, 1990: Coastal-marine automated network (C-MAN) NWS users guide. US Dept. of Commerce. Neu, H. J. A., 1984: Interannual variations and longer-term changes in the sea state of the North Atlantic from 1970 to 1982. J. Geophys. Res., 89(C4), 6397-6402. NERC, 1975: Flood studies report. Vol. 1 – Hydrological studies. Natural Environment Research Council, London. Olsen, E., S. F. Barstow and K. Selanger, 1991: Wave data collection, Efate, Vanuatu, November–December 1990, Oceanographic Company of Norway Report OCN R-91076. O’Reilly, W. C., T. H. C. Herbers, R. J. Seymour and R. T. Guza, 1995: A comparison of directional buoy and fixed platform measurements of Pacific swell. Submitted to J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol. Overland, J. E. and W. H. Gemmill, 1977: Prediction of marine winds in the New York bight. Monthly Weather Review, 105, 1003–1008. Phillips, D. W. and J. G. Irbe, 1978: Lake to land comparison of wind, temperature, and humidity of Lake Ontario during the International Field Layer for the Great Lakes. CLI 2-77, Atmospheric Environment Service, Environment Canada. Phillips, O. M., 1957: On the generation of waves by a turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech., 2, 417–445. Phillips, O. M., 1958: The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Fluid Mech., 4, 426–434. Pickands, J. III, 1975: Statistical inference using extreme order statistics. Ann. Stat., 3, 119–131. Pierson, W. J., 1979: TWINDX: A planetary boundary layer model for the winds in extratropical and tropical ocean areas. Contract no. N00014-77-C-0206. Naval Environ. Pred. Res. Cen., Monterey, California, USA. Pierson, W. J., 1982: The Spectral Ocean Wave Model (SOWM): a northern hemisphere computer model for specifying and forecasting ocean wave spectra. David Taylor Naval Research and Development Center, DTNSRDC-82-011, Bethesda, MD, USA. Pierson, W. J., 1990: Examples of, reasons for, and consequences of the poor quality of wind data from ships for the marine boundary layer: implications for remote sensing. J. Geophys. Res., 95, 13313–13340. Pierson, W. J. and L. Moskowitz, 1964: A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind-seas based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii. J. Geophys. Res., 69(24), 5181–5190.
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WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION G
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© 1998, World Meteorological Organ
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IV Chapter 7 - WAVES IN SHALLOW WAT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The revision of th
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VIII has been included particularly
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X considerable attention. Annex III
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2 η Crest Zero level a H = 2a a Tr
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4 Figure 1.5 — Paths of the water
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6 When waves propagate into shallow
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8 1.3.2 Wave groups and group veloc
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10 wavelengths in a given sea state
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12 for instance, a frequency of 0.1
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14 in which E(f) is the variance de
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16 2.1.1 Wind and pressure analyses
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18 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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20 Figure 2.2(a) (right) — Usual
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22 As a quick approximation of ocea
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24 GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FOREC
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26 Gr G Gr ∇p C Cnf ∇p C Cnf
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28 POINT C — The effect of warm a
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30 a general sense, and can be appl
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32 Free atmosphere Ekman layer Cons
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3.1 Introduction This chapter gives
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ange of directions. Also, waves at
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small enough that swell can survive
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Figure 3.7 — Structure of spectra
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4.1 Introduction CHAPTER 4 WAVE FOR
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necessary to forecast waves for a p
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TABLE 4.4 Additional wave informati
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TABLE 4.6 Ranges of swell periods a
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this situation, the angular spreadi
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the energy flux is c gH 2 . This is
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α0, degrees Solution: 80° 70° 60
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5.1 Introduction National Meteorolo
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only once, since it is usual to sto
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Frequency 0.050 0.067 0.083 0.100 0
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The models may differ in several re
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The CH class may include many semi-
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6.1 Introductory remarks Since the
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in some applications, the zero up/d
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OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 71 Figure 6
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give large differences in the compa
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Wind (m/s) Waves (m) Buoy/GSOWM Wav
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TABLE 6.2 Numerical wave models ope
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TABLE 6.2 (cont.) Country Name of m
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7.1 Introduction The evolution of w
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water boundary into shallow water.
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eflected waves, although the latter
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Energy (cm 2 /Hz) Energy (cm 2 /Hz)
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8.1 Introduction Wave data are ofte
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matter and timing the intervals bet
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a Directional Waverider (Barstow et
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80°N 60°N 40°N 20°N 0° -20°S
Page 107 and 108: a combination of sea-surface temper
Page 109 and 110: 8.7.1 Digital analysis of wave reco
Page 111 and 112: 9.1 Introduction Chapter 8 describe
Page 113 and 114: Presentation of data and wave clima
Page 115 and 116: the monsoon season of June to Septe
Page 117 and 118: Probability of non-exceedance case
Page 119 and 120: individual wave height derived usin
Page 121 and 122: emote, data-sparse areas. However,
Page 123 and 124: TABLE 9.2 (cont.) Country Source of
Page 125 and 126: For a storm hindcast, select the mo
Page 127 and 128: TABLE 9.3 (cont.) Country Model use
Page 129 and 130: ANNEX I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SY
Page 131 and 132: Abbreviation/ Definition Symbol MOS
Page 133 and 134: CODE FORM: D . . . . D or IIiii* SE
Page 135 and 136: sensors, spectral peak wave period
Page 137 and 138: cs1cs1 The ratio of the spectral de
Page 139 and 140: M jM j n mn m n smn sm n bn bn b P
Page 141 and 142: 1744 Im Indicator for method of cal
Page 143 and 144: The following distributions are bri
Page 145 and 146: 4. Weibull distribution Probability
Page 147 and 148: 8. Fisher-Tippett Type I (FT-I) (or
Page 149 and 150: ANNEX IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-J
Page 151 and 152: ANNEX IV 141 Duration graph. Distor
Page 153 and 154: REFERENCES Abbott, M. B., H. H. Pet
Page 155 and 156: REFERENCES 145 Carter, D. J. T., P.
Page 157: REFERENCES 147 Gumbel, E. J., 1958:
Page 161 and 162: Slutz, R. J., S. J. Lubker, J. D. H
Page 163 and 164: SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY CERC, 1984: C
Page 165 and 166: 156 Energy . . . . . . . . . . . .
Page 167 and 168: 158 steepness . . . . . . . . . . .
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GUIDE WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING - WMO

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