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Osprey - General Military - Knight - The Warrior and ... - Brego-weard

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which had been developing along the same lines as the rest ot the armour, starting ott<br />

with a splinted construction but increasingly consisting of complex shaped plates.<br />

<strong>The</strong> feet, likewise, were covered in sabatons of metal segments, or lamed, the calves in<br />

fully enclosed, plate greaves, the knee in poleyns <strong>and</strong> the upper leg in cuisses, originally<br />

padded, quilted or even made of riveted plates as before, but by around 1400 made ot<br />

plate covering the front <strong>and</strong> outside of the thigh.<br />

Whilst the iconic 'hounskull' bascinet was still very common, a variant had<br />

developed by 1400. <strong>The</strong> 'gr<strong>and</strong> bascinet' retained many of the same elements of its<br />

smaller cousin but on a more massive scale. <strong>The</strong> aventail disappeared, replaced by a<br />

solid neck defence. <strong>The</strong> visor was still of one piece <strong>and</strong> hinged at the sides, but the<br />

features became blunted, giving it a sort of bulldog appearance.<br />

<strong>The</strong> mid- to late 15th century saw another dramatic change in the development<br />

of armour. Until this point armour styles had been fairly international, with only<br />

occasional <strong>and</strong> minor variations in form, often just a case of one region being ahead<br />

of the fashion trend rather than developing anything uniquely different. Now,<br />

however, two distinctive styles developed: the gothic' style of the armourers of<br />

southern Germany <strong>and</strong> the 'Milanese' style from the workshops of, unsurprisingly,<br />

Milan. Gothic armour was dominated by narrow <strong>and</strong> wasp-waisted armour, with<br />

relatively small plates, heavily fluted <strong>and</strong> scalloped, in a manner similar to the high<br />

gothic architecture with which it shares its name. Emphasizing flexibility over<br />

protection, it still relied on mail gussets sewn to the arming doublet, the reinforced<br />

jacket to which the leg <strong>and</strong> arm assemblies were tied, to protect the armpit <strong>and</strong> a mail<br />

skirt or mail braied — underpants made of tiny mail links — to protect the groin.<br />

By contrast the Milanese style made use of larger plates, smooth <strong>and</strong> rounded, giving<br />

the harness a much more massive look. This afforded perhaps greater protection at a<br />

slight cost in flexibility particularly with regard to the shoulders. In both cases the<br />

armour was often asymmetrical, with larger plates or additional layers of protection<br />

(the qardbrace or grange-garde) shielding the left side of the body, the side most likely<br />

to receive a lance blow.<br />

In this period there was a broader range of helmet styles than perhaps ever before.<br />

To a certain extent these can be matched with the two dominant styles of armour:<br />

the dallet, horizontal, skimming the jaw line <strong>and</strong> with a clear <strong>and</strong> distinct tail, reflects<br />

the narrow lines <strong>and</strong> fluted style of the gothic style whilst the Milanese armour is<br />

more often depicted in conjunction with an armet, a bascinet-style helmet that<br />

enclosed the head with large cheek pieces that met in the middle to protect the jaw<br />

<strong>and</strong> a hinged visor for the face. Some also had a disc of steel at the nape of the neck<br />

- the rondel — the purpose of which is no longer clear. Another popular Italianate<br />

style was the barbate, a deep helmet with an open face reminiscent of the classical<br />

ARMS AND ARMOUR •*}*•<br />

37

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