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Modifications for the ICOM - RogerK

Modifications for the ICOM - RogerK

Modifications for the ICOM - RogerK

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1. You're completely successful.2. You screw up a surface mount pad, but <strong>the</strong> radio still works when you're done.3. You're a total hack using <strong>the</strong> wrong tools, and you send <strong>the</strong> radio back to Icom <strong>for</strong> repair.Hopefully, you're a result 1 type person. At worst, you're a result 2. If you think your going to be a result 3 type, don't evenstart. Call a friend.We've done this mod on 2 radios with complete success. We can't guarantee that in later radios this mod will still work. It worksat least with serial numbers up to 1111 in <strong>the</strong> last 4 digits.Let's get started!Remove <strong>the</strong> 8 screws that attach <strong>the</strong> cover, and remove <strong>the</strong> top cover of <strong>the</strong> radio.Orient <strong>the</strong> radio so that serial, power and RF connector are closest to you, and <strong>the</strong> power switch faces away from you.On <strong>the</strong> PC board closest to you, in <strong>the</strong> upper left hand corner you should see a 80 pin surface mount chip. It has a number suchas 64F3334 stamped on it. This is <strong>the</strong> processor.Near <strong>the</strong> upper left hand corner of <strong>the</strong> chip, you should see 2 small green 0-ohm resistors. To <strong>the</strong> left of <strong>the</strong> two resistors youshould see an unpopulated pair of pads. These are <strong>the</strong> 3 "R"s below, on <strong>the</strong> left. The 4th "R" is used <strong>for</strong> location reference below.| RRR R| o ooo| o -----------------| o | || o | | D| | | D| r | || -------------------|| --| | || | || | || -----------------------(Picture courtesy of Alan Adamson, NE1H)Using <strong>the</strong> soldering iron and knife, *carefully* remove <strong>the</strong> right hand resistor. You'll need to alternately heat <strong>the</strong> two ends, whileapply a *light* pressure with <strong>the</strong> knife. Once it's hot enough, it will left off. It's very easy to destroy <strong>the</strong> pads <strong>the</strong> resistor issoldered to, so be *careful*.You'll now need to short <strong>the</strong> pads of <strong>the</strong> left resistor (this is <strong>the</strong> unpopulated one). You can ei<strong>the</strong>r try and re-use <strong>the</strong> resistor youjust lifted (least good idea), short <strong>the</strong>m with a short piece of wire wrap wire (OK idea), or use a real 0-ohm resistor (best idea).For <strong>the</strong> next step you have two options. One option is easy and does not require removing <strong>the</strong> board from <strong>the</strong> radio(recommended). The o<strong>the</strong>r option is "more correct", but will require disconnecting all <strong>the</strong> cables, removing <strong>the</strong> 5 screws thathold <strong>the</strong> board down, etc (purist method). We'll presume you're more likely to want easy, so here are <strong>the</strong> steps <strong>for</strong> it.Keeping <strong>the</strong> radio oriented as described above, look below <strong>the</strong> right hand resistor (<strong>the</strong> one we removed). You should see 3 vias(holes) (see picture above). Follow <strong>the</strong> left most via, and it should go to <strong>the</strong> left most pin of <strong>the</strong> processor. The second via shouldgo to <strong>the</strong> next pin to right, and third via should go to <strong>the</strong> pin to right. At this point, you should see two pins that don't appear tobe connected to anything, <strong>the</strong>n a pin that connects to a small black resistor marked 201 (this is <strong>the</strong> 4th "R" in <strong>the</strong> picture).If you've sucessfully located <strong>the</strong> 6 pins above, we want to short <strong>the</strong> pin that is <strong>the</strong> 4th from <strong>the</strong> left to ground. Above <strong>the</strong>se 6pins, you should see a small black rectangle, with 8 pins. I believe it is marked 220. On <strong>the</strong> side of this part (it's a resistor pack),<strong>the</strong>re is a pin that is soldered to <strong>the</strong> ground plane.To short <strong>the</strong> 4th pin from <strong>the</strong> left to ground, tack a wire to <strong>the</strong> pin. Be *very* careful not to short <strong>the</strong> adjacent pins to <strong>the</strong> 4thpin. It's very easy to do. It you do, use a piece of Solderwick or coax braid to remove <strong>the</strong> solder. Better yet, don't short <strong>the</strong> pins.Tack <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end of <strong>the</strong> wire to <strong>the</strong> pin on <strong>the</strong> resistor pack described above.OK, you'd ra<strong>the</strong>r do it <strong>the</strong> "more correct" way. Disconnect all <strong>the</strong> cables from <strong>the</strong> board. You'll need to remove <strong>the</strong> shield from<strong>the</strong> RF section to remove <strong>the</strong> white ribbon cables. Disconnect <strong>the</strong> power and speaker cable. Remove <strong>the</strong> 5 screws that hold <strong>the</strong>PC card down. Remove <strong>the</strong> card from <strong>the</strong> radio.Orient <strong>the</strong> board as described above. Look <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> white connector above <strong>the</strong> packet connector (lower left). It's marked J12. Justabove that are a pair of solder pads <strong>for</strong> a resistor. One side goes to ground, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r goes to a via. Follow <strong>the</strong> trace on <strong>the</strong>bottom side of <strong>the</strong> board. You should see that it goes to a via, but that <strong>the</strong> trace has been cut right next to <strong>the</strong> via.

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