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Build Your Own Combat Robot

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FIGURE 7-10<br />

Using the RCE220<br />

as an H-bridge.<br />

Chapter 7: Controlling <strong>Your</strong> Motors 139<br />

The fuses should have a higher amp rating than the maximum amp rating on<br />

the motors. The fuse(s) should be placed where it will cut power only to the single<br />

relay-motor set—in other words, use one fuse per non-drive relay controlled motor.<br />

You can place fuses on the drive motors; but most experienced robot builders do<br />

not do this because, if a drive motor fuse blew, the motor will stop and the robot<br />

will immediately lose the match. Many combat robot builders would rather lose a<br />

match due to a burned-out motor or battery than a blown fuse.<br />

When testing the robot, you should use fuses with the drive motors. You do not<br />

want to take the chance of damaging drive motors and batteries during testing<br />

runs. Weapon systems are a different matter, however. A burned-out weapon system<br />

doesn’t mean the robot loses the match. It can still continue to fight on. So, using fuses<br />

with weapons systems to protect the rest of the robot is highly recommended.<br />

Variable Speed Control Basics<br />

If you use relay control with your drive motors, your robot will need to drive at<br />

full speed whenever it’s moving. This might not seem like a great disadvantage,<br />

but turning your robot around when going full-blast and accurately lining up on<br />

your opponent is a difficult task. Relay-only drives should never be considered for<br />

a two-wheeled robot because turning accurately would be extremely difficult.<br />

Four-wheeled robots are more amenable to relay-controlled drives, since their<br />

steering usually has a higher amount of friction when turning because all wheels<br />

are slip-steering. This higher amount of friction helps reduce the overshoot from<br />

relay-controlled drives.

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