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Build Your Own Combat Robot

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144 <strong>Build</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Own</strong> <strong>Combat</strong> <strong>Robot</strong><br />

FIGURE 7-12<br />

Block diagram of a<br />

hobby electronic<br />

speed controller.<br />

ESCs. These controllers typically have only one or two FETs per leg of the<br />

H-bridge, and most use a small extruded aluminum heat sink to dissipate the heat<br />

from the FETs.<br />

These controllers are intended for use in single-motor models. The initial units had<br />

only forward speed as model boats and cars rarely ever had to reverse. Their technical<br />

specifications were geared for the model racing hobby using NiCad batteries and<br />

were written accordingly for non-technical people. To this day, most of the manufacturers<br />

still specify the “number of cells,” rather than the minimum and maximum<br />

voltage requirements of a particular ESC, and use the term “number of windings” (on<br />

the motor’s armature) as a measurement of current capacity. This can be confusing to<br />

those who feel comfortable with the terms “volts” and “amps.”<br />

Figure 7-12 shows a block diagram of a hobby electronic speed controller.<br />

The number of cells designation literally means you can multiply that number<br />

by 1.2 volts to get the actual minimum and maximum voltage requirements of the<br />

particular ESC. You must remember that many of the cars used stacks of AA or<br />

sub-C cells packaged in a shrink-wrapped plastic cover and were rated at about<br />

9.6 volts (eight cells) maximum. Few cars used 10 cells to arrive at 12 volts, the basic<br />

starting point for robot systems.<br />

Many model boats use motors that draw relatively high currents, as do most<br />

competition race cars. Most of the specifications for standard ESC’s speak of<br />

“16-turn” windings for the DC permanent magnet motors as being the norm. This

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