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Build Your Own Combat Robot

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198 <strong>Build</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Own</strong> <strong>Combat</strong> <strong>Robot</strong><br />

The oval-head screw is a combination of the flat head, in that it is counter-sunk,<br />

and a pan head that is not flush. These screws usually are of the most common<br />

slotted-head or Phillips variety, with many available with hexagonal sockets for<br />

Allen wrenches. Many other types of screws can be used for security and other<br />

purposes, which we won’t cover here.<br />

Unless you have access to aerospace-quality fasteners, when you need to select<br />

machine screws for robot construction purposes, your best sources are your local<br />

larger hardware store or maybe a surplus store. Quite often, you will find that<br />

round-head screws are not of the highest quality. Their steel may be of lower quality<br />

and the screws tend to break easily. They are also not the best fasteners for attaching<br />

the robots “skin” to the internal structure, as they protrude outside the skin<br />

and can be struck by a swinging weapon.<br />

Flat-head machine screws that can be countersunk into a robot’s protective<br />

skin usually prove to be the best. They are made of a higher quality steel, usually<br />

18-8 stainless steel or other steel alloys, and the better varieties are of the Phillips<br />

type. Drill the center hole and then counter-bore the hole to accept the recessed<br />

head of the screw. Drilling to the correct depth takes a bit of practice, and the use<br />

of a drill press is recommended because most have adjustable stops to keep the operator<br />

from making the hole too deep.<br />

The countersink usually used for flat-head screws is 82 degrees, and you can<br />

buy drill/countersink combinations at larger tool supply places and from mail-order<br />

catalogs. Most experimenters find that a three- or four-flute countersink with<br />

a half-inch diameter works well with aluminum. One bad feature with using<br />

flat-head screws with countersunk holes is the chance of going a bit too deep and<br />

ruining that location for fastening. Another bad feature is that countersunk<br />

flat-head machine screws provide the least “holding power” due to the weak rim<br />

of the countersunk hole. Nevertheless, when properly machined, these screws<br />

seem to be the best for external robot skin applications.<br />

Most cap screws are also one of the strongest types of screw. They are about the<br />

same strength as “grade 8” hardware. Flat-head cap screws rather than flat-head<br />

machine screws may be used when the protruding screw head is not an issue. The<br />

hexagonal drive type for cap screws is the most common variety because an Allen<br />

wrench can use a lot of torque for tightening. You won’t find a wide variety of cap<br />

screws in a small hardware store, but larger suppliers will have a good selection<br />

for your project.<br />

The pan-head machine screw seems to be the best for internal structural assembly.<br />

Most of the better varieties are made of 18-8 stainless steel and are of the Phillips<br />

type. This screw has excellent holding power due to the large head and larger flat<br />

area touching the metal. The pan-head machine screw, as well as the round-head,<br />

can use a washer to increase the holding area and, therefore, the tensile strength<br />

(the ability of the screw to prevent itself from being stretched apart or being pulled<br />

out of the hole).<br />

All of the screw types mentioned here have either threads that are along the<br />

whole length of the shank or partially near the end. Either type will normally work<br />

fine for most robot applications.

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