Build Your Own Combat Robot

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Chapter 14: Real-Life Robots: Lessons from Veteran Builders 317 we decided our first step should be getting the motors; we could design the robot around them. We decided to use cordless drill motors in our bot. My friend Larry Barello, a FIRST competition mentor, recommended that we use Bosch or Dewalt drill motors. After some searching, we found a Bosch 18-volt cordless drill that had a stall torque of 430 in.-lb., and a no-load speed of 500 RPM. Some quick calculations showed that with 8-inch diameter wheels, our robot would top out at 12 MPH, which is pretty quick for a robot. After spending $400 on the first two drills, we decided to get the rest of them from a local Bosch repair facility. We now had the replacement part numbers and all we needed was the electric motors and gearboxes. Why spend the extra money on the case, batteries, and the drill body and chuck since we were not using them? Step 3: Adding Wheels Next we had to figure out how to drive the wheels. I originally wanted to use timing belts to drive the wheels, but I decided to go with regular chains and sprockets because they were cheaper. From the Grainger catalog, we could see that a No. 40 chain had a maximum load rating of 1,000 pounds. With a service factor of 2 for intermittent and shock loading, this would equate to a load rating of 500 pounds. Since this was greater than the stall torque of the motors, we decided that this chain should work fine. At this point, we ordered a whole mess of parts from Grainger: sprockets, chains, spherical pillow blocks for the four axles, and four flange mount pillow blocks for the motor mounts. Another friend, Robert Niblock, told me about a local machine shop that builds custom racing go-karts and suggested that they might sell me some used parts. So Dave and I ran over to the machine shop to see what we could haggle over. Ken Frankel showed us his high-speed, state-of-the-art racing go-karts. They looked just like miniature Lemans or Indy racing cars. We talked for a few hours, and he sold us some of his used aluminum wheels and a dozen used racing tires, along with a set of four mounting hubs. The used racing tires were great because they were already gummed up from racing, so they provided lots of extra traction. Step 4: Adding Motor Housings and Controllers The next step was to build the motor housings. Cordless drill motors are not designed to be used as regular motors, so there really isn’t any good mounting points on the motor and gearbox. I used a pair of calipers and reverse engineered the exterior geometry of the motors and gearboxes. Figure 14-7 shows a layout of the components used to make the mounts for the gearbox, and Figure 14-8 shows a photograph of the assembled gearboxes. The parts were machined using an abrasive waterjet. Yup, water and sand was used to cut all these metal parts. When water is pressurized to 55,000 psi and a little sand is added to it, it can cut any material known to man. One of the nice things about an abrasive waterjet is that it can cut some rather intricate features without difficulty.
318 Build Your Own Combat Robot FIGURE 14-7 Flat pattern parts for the cordless drill motor mounts. FIGURE 14-8 Assembled motor mounts using 18-volt Bosch cordless drills, flange mount pillow blocks, and two 12-tooth sprockets. Originally, we wanted to use Vantec motor controllers for the robot. When I called Vantec to order one of their RDFR motor controllers, I was informed that it would take four to six weeks to arrive. Obviously, we couldn’t wait that long, so I started looking around for other motor controllers. Larry Barello suggested that I look at the Victor 883 motor controllers since he has used them without any trouble with cordless drill motors in the FIRST robots he helped a lot of kids build. I checked out their spec sheets and determined that the 60 continuous amp rating
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Build Your Own Combat Robot Pete Mi
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For more information about this boo
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Contents For more information about
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Current Ratings, 129 How It All Wor
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Object Detector, 290 Sensor Integra
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Acknowledgments We would like to th
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Introduction Some kids spend their
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About the Authors xv About the Auth
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2 ELCOME to the world of combat rob
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22 S we said in Chapter 1, it’s g
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42 OVING is what many might call a
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chapter Motor Selection and Perform
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Chapter 4: Motor Selection and Perf
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FIGURE 4-1 Typical motor performanc
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Determining the Motor Constants Cha
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FIGURE 4-2 Heat generated in an ele
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FIGURE 4-4 Motor power changes by d
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Chapter 4: Motor Selection and Perf
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FIGURE 4-7 24-volt, 185 rpm, 896 in
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the robot. If the engine is used to
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80 LECTRICALLY powered competition
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128 F batteries are the source of p
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chapter Remotely Controlling Your R
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FIGURE 8-1 Wiring and rotational po
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FIGURE 8-2 Futaba’s top of-the-li
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Chapter 8: Remotely Controlling You
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FIGURE 8-4 Typical radio frequency
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FIGURE 8-5 Motor with three capacit
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Innovation First Isaac Robot Contro
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FIGURE 8-6 Block diagram of Isaac o
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chapter 9 Robot Material and Constr
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Metals Aluminum Chapter 9: Robot Ma
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Stainless Steel Chapter 9: Robot Ma
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Titanium used to solder small brass
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Chapter 9: Robot Material and Const
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Welding, Joining, and Fastening We
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place, or some liquid may have ente
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vibration and bounce around the ins
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204 ECAUSE robot combat has evolved
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240 HE robots described in the book
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chapter 12 Robot Brains Copyright 2
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FIGURE 12-1 From top left to bottom
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Chapter 12: Robot Brains 263 space
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FIGURE 12-2 The BoeBot from Paralla
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sources of robot parts, 35 top ten
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INTERNATIONAL CONTACT INFORMATION A
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