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Build Your Own Combat Robot

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72 <strong>Build</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Own</strong> <strong>Combat</strong> <strong>Robot</strong><br />

Heat can destroy a motor in several ways. Most lower-cost PMDC motors use<br />

ferrite magnets, which can become permanently demagnetized if they are overheated.<br />

They can also be demagnetized by the magnetic fields produced when the<br />

motor is running at a voltage higher than that at which it is rated. The flexible<br />

braided copper leads that feed current to the brushes (called shunts) can melt after<br />

just a few seconds of severe over-current demands. The insulation on the heavy<br />

copper windings can fail, or the windings can even melt. Depending on the motor<br />

brush mounting technique used, the springs used to keep the brushes on the commutator<br />

can heat up and lose their strength, thus causing the brushes to press less<br />

tightly against the commutator. When this happens, the brushes can arc more,<br />

heat up, and finally disintegrate. You don’t want to use that expensive motor as a<br />

fuse, so make sure it can handle the heat.<br />

Motor heating is proportional to the current 2<br />

× resistance. Our 18-volt motor<br />

example has a resistance of 0.174 ohms. If you were to stall it, it would draw<br />

103 amps. If you stalled the same motor at 36 volts, it would draw 207 amps.<br />

Since heating is a function of current 2 , the motor would get four times as hot.<br />

Pushing 207 amps through a resistance of .174 ohms will generate 7,455 watts of<br />

heat, which is five times more than the heating output of a typical home electric<br />

space heater. Now imagine all the power of your portable heater multiplied by five<br />

and concentrated into a lump of metal that weighs just a few pounds. You can see<br />

why survival time is limited.<br />

The physical size of the motor that would best fit your robotic needs is in large<br />

part determined by the amount of heat that will be generated. Some people find it<br />

surprising that a 12-ounce motor can produce exactly the same amount of power<br />

as a 5-pound motor. The same formula for motor power is just as true for small<br />

motors as it is for large motors. The difference is in how long that power can be<br />

produced. The larger motor has a larger thermal mass, and can therefore absorb a<br />

lot more heat energy for a given temperature rise.<br />

Pushing the Limits<br />

Okay, so you would like to use a greater-than-recommended voltage on your motor<br />

to get more power out of it, but you are worried about damaging it. What should<br />

you do? First, you must realize that you always run the risk of destroying your motor<br />

if you choose to boost its performance past the manufacturer’s specifications. Following<br />

are some things you can do to minimize the risk.<br />

Limit the duty cycle. If you run your motor for, say, 1 minute on and 5 minutes<br />

off, it should survive. Cooling is critical for an overdriven motor. One <strong>Robot</strong> Wars<br />

heavyweight (La Machine) cooled its over-volted motors by directing the output<br />

of a ducted fan into them. This ducted fan was originally created for use in propulsion<br />

in model airplanes because they put out a lot of air.<br />

An easier way to accomplish this same effect is to use batteries that are limited in<br />

the amount of current that they can produce. The problem here, though, is that you<br />

will often be pushing your battery to output levels that will shorten its useful life.<br />

Even the sealed lead-acid batteries can sometimes boil and leak under heavy loads.

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