Horticulture Principles and Practices

y winds. A stake, which is often a metallic rod, is positioned close to where the
stem will be and driven into the soil before planting the tree. The stake should be
positioned on the west or northwest side of the trunk. The stem height of the stake
should be such that after tying the stem it remains upright. Any bare-root seedling
taller than 8 feet (2.4 meters) should be staked. Tying should not completely immobilize
the tree but permit some degree of movement with the wind, which helps in
the development of a strong trunk. To prevent injury to the tree, the bare wire used
for tying should be covered in a piece of rubber hose. Sometimes, double stakes
may be used (Figure 17–11). In this case, the stakes are fixed outside of the
planting hole on opposite sides of the stem. In place of staking, a newly planted tree
may be anchored in place by using three well-positioned guy wires (Figure 17–12).
These anchors may be removed after about a year or two (sooner for small trees).
The anchorage is usually removed after the first growing season.
4. Wrapping. This is less commonly done these days. Trees (especially those with
sensitive bark such as Acer rubrum) often need to be protected against trunk
damage from sunlight and cold in cold climates. They are protected by wrapping
the trunk with strips of burlap or tree wrapping paper after treating with an insecticide.
This material is left in place for about twelve months. The wrapping also
reduces moisture loss. Without the stabilizing effect of the wrapper, rapid
changes in temperature in winter will cause the bark of the tree to crack or
become sun scalded. The paper used must not be black or dark colored. In lieu of
wrapping, tree tubes are increasingly being used by tree growers.
5. Pruning. In bare-root seedlings, about 30 percent of the top should be removed at
transplanting for good and quick establishment. Because of root mass loss, bareroot
seedlings need severe pruning to minimize water loss. Thinning of the top
also reduces the dangers of toppling from wind.
6. Antitranspirants. To reduce transpiration and subsequently transplanting shock,
antitranspirants may be sprayed with a foliar application of antitranspirants
before transplanting. This treatment is used when large plants are being transplanted.
It has only a temporary effect.
7. Watering. New transplants should be watered deeply for quick establishment.
However, care should be exercised to avoid waterlogging of the soil. Although
watering next to the trunk is proper during tree establishment, after the tree has
grown older it should be watered only in the area outside of the drip line where
the roots occur.
8. Fertilization. Nitrate fertilizers (3 to 6 pounds per 100 square feet or 1.53 to
2.7 kilograms per 9 square meters) may be applied in moderate amounts after
planting. Adding fertilizer directly to the backfill soil may scourge the roots.
9. Installing a wire mesh. To protect against pests such as rodents, transplants may
be encircled with a wire mesh, plastic, or metal guard installed around the tree
trunk. These tree guards also protect against accidental damage from mowers.
10. Installing a root deflector. Trees that produce roots close to the soil surface should
not be planted near pavement. If they have to be planted near such materials, damage
to the pavement may be prevented by installing a root deflector (a sheet of impervious
material inserted between the pavement and the roots to force the roots near the surface
to grow downward and away from the pavement material).
FIGURE 17–10
A berm.
Pool of water
Top view
17.15 Postplanting Immediate Care 531