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74 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF SILK leaves of other plants, and a law was enacted, that no worm^ were to be destroyed or sacrificed until their quantity was suffi- cienth' great. The n'loaastery was founded to commemorate so great a benefit, and some trunks of the original mulberry-trees can yet be seen there*." In the following passage [Regne Animal, par Ciivier, torn. V. p. 402.,) Latreille mentions Tuifan as an important city as far as it aflfected the early silk-trade. In other respects his account coincides wdth that aheady given. " La ^^lle de Turfan, dans la petite Bucharie, fut long-temps le rendez-vous des caravanes venant de I'Ouest, et I'entrepot principal des soieries de la Chine. Elle ^tait la mdtropole des Sferes de I'Asie superieure, ou de la Serique de Pto- l^mê. Expuls^s de leurs pays par les Huns, les Sferes s'etablirent dans le grande Bucharie et dans I'lnde. C'est d'une de leurs colonics, du Ser-hend (Ser-indi), que des missionaires Grfecs transportferent, du temps de Justinien, les oeufs du ver k sole i Constantinople." The City of Turfan in Little Bucharia was for a long time the rendezvous of the caravans coming from the West, and the principal market for Chinese silks. It was the metropolis of the Seres of L^^pper Asia, or the Serica of Ptolemy. The Seres having been expelled their countrj' by the Huns, established themselves in Great Bucharia and in India. It is from one of their colonies (of Ser-indi), that the Grecian ^Missionaries, in the time of Justinian, brought the eggs of the silkworm to Constantinople. A diploma of Ethelbert, King of Kent, mentions "Armilausia holoserica," proving that silk was known in England at the end of the sixth centuryt. The usual dress of the earhest French kings seems to have been a linen shirt and drawers of the same material next to the skin ; over these a tunic, probably of fine wool, which had a border of silk, orna- mented sometimes with gold or precious stones; and upon this a sagum, which was fastened with a fibula on the right shoul- der. Eginhart informs us, that Charlemange wore a tunic, or vest, with a silken border {limbo serico)t. * It may be observed, that the folds of the turban are not unfrequently used in the East to convey articles of value. See Journal of a Tour in Asia Minor, by Charles Fellows, London, 1839, p. 216. t Dugdale's Monasticon, vol. i. p. 24. Adelung's Glossarium Manuale, v. Ar- milauFiia. X Examples of it may be seen, I. in the two figures of Charlemagne, executed in mosaic during liis life-time, one of which is preserved in the Penitentiary of St
AFTER ITS FIRST INTRODUCTION INTO EUROPE. 75 ALDIIELMUS, CL., A. D. G80. This author, who died Abbot of Sherburn, was among the most learned men of his age. In his iEnigmas, which are written in tetrastics, we find the following description of the silk-worm. As it is scarcely possible that he could have seen this creature, we have cause to admire both the ingenuity and general accuracy of his lines. The ascending to the tops of thorns or shrubs, such as " gcnistic," to which the animal may attach its cocoon {globulu?7i), has not been noticed by any earlier author. De Bombycibus. Annua dum redeunt texendi tempora telas, Lurida setigeris replentur viscera fills ; Moxque genistarum frondosa cacumina scando, Ut globulus fabricans cum fati sorte quiescam. Maxima Bibl. Vet. Patrum, torn. xiii. p. 25. Soon as the year brings round the time to spin, My entrails dark with hairy threads are fill'd: Then to the leafy lops of shrubs I climb, Make my cocoon, and rest by fate's decree. In a book written by this author, in praise of virginity, he observes, That chastity alone did not form an amiable and per- fect character, but required to be accompanied and adorned by many other virtues ; and this observation he further illustrates by the following simile taken from the art of weaving : " As it is not a web of one uniform color and texture, without any variety of figures, that pleaseth the eye and appears beautiful, but one that is woven hy shuttles, filled with threads of purple, and many other colors, flying- frotn side to side, and forming a variety of figures and images, in different com- partments, with admirable art." — Bibliotheca Patrum, torn. xiii. John Lateran at Rome, and both of these are described by Spon in his Miscel- lanea Erudita; Antiquitatus (p. 284.) ; II. in the figure of Charles the Bald, tho grandson of Charlemagne, which is in tho splendid copy of the Latin Gospels made for his use, now preserved in the library at Munich, and which may be seen engraved in Sanft's Dissertation on that MS. (p. 42.) ; III. in the figure of an early French king engraved from a MS. by Baluz.ius in his Capitularia Ro- giun Francorum (tom. ii. p. 1308.) ; and IV. in the first volume of Montfaucon's Monumens de la Monarchie Fran9aise.
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Digitized by the Internet Arciiive
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THE HISTORY OF SILK, COTTON, LINEN,
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PREFACE. History, until a recent pe
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PREFACE. Vll How many of the grande
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PREFACE. jx life from the paintings
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COINTENTS. PART FIRST. ANCIENT HIST
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CONTENTS. Xlll fiilk-worra never br
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CONTENTS. XV silk-worms of India—
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CONTENTS. Xvii Pliny's account of S
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CONTENTS. Xix PART THIRD. ANCIENT H
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CONTENTS. XXI APPENDICES APPENDIX A
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LIST OF PLATES. I. Frontispiece—C
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2 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF va
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4 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF fe
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6 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF st
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: 8 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF
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10 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF t
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12 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF T
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14 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF S
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16 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF T
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18 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF g
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20 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF W
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CHAPTER II. HISTORY OF THE SILK MAN
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Page 127 and 128: CHAPTER VI. SILVER TEXTURES, &c., O
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Page 133 and 134: DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 99 in
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Page 151 and 152: DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 117 *
Page 153: Silk Wfvrm. F/air///. ( v.coaii:;,
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120 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF
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CHINESE MODE OF REARING' SILK-WORMS
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CHINESE MODE OF REARING SILK-WORMS,
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CHTNESE MODE OF REARmO SILK-WORMS,
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CHINESE MODE OF RAISING SILK-WORMS,
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CHINESE MODE OP REARING SILK-WORMS,
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER. 139
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SILKEN MATERIAL OP THE SPIDER. 145
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SILKEN MATERIAL OP THE SPIDER, 157
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER 1G3 n
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER. in i
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Spider;;. Willi the processes
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CHAPTER X. FIBRES OR SILKEN MATERIA
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— 180 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE
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186 FIBRES, on SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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188 FIBRES, OR SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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190 FIBRES, OR SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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192 THE MALLOW, ITS USES BY THE ANC
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196 THE MALLOW. ITS USES BY THE AN'
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198 THE MALLOW, ITS USKS BY THE ANC
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CHAPTER XIII. SPARTUM, OR SPANISH B
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204 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : Stil
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206 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : of t
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208 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : seem
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210 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : info
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212 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : C. B
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214 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : feed
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216 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM. The a
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^^ 218 SHEEP BREEDING AND ^^^leê a
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220 SHEEP BREEDING AND is given us
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^ 222 SHEEP BREEDING AND sheep of S
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224 SHEEP BREEDING AND and enteipri
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226 SHEEP BREEDING AND proofs of th
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228 SHEEP BREEDING AND sheep were h
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230 SHEEP BREEDING AND "Anciently M
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232 SHEEP BREEDING AND are among th
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234 SHEEP BREEDING AND strong and l
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236 SHEEP BREEDING AND represents t
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238 SHEEP BREEDING AND practice est
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240 SHEEP BREEDING AND the principa
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242 SHEEP BREEDING AND Warbling wit
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244 SHEEP BREEDING AND Time has spa
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246 §HEEP BREEDING AND at the base
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248 SHEEP BREEDING AND ceeding ages
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250 SHEEP BREEDING AND Minerva, who
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252 SHEEP BREEDING AND natural feat
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254 SHEEP BREEDING AND of remark, t
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CHAPTER II. SHEEP-BREEDING AND PAST
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258 SHEEP BREEDING AND " I will set
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260 SHEEP BREEDING AND for the nymp
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262 SHEEP BREEDING AND which they w
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264 SHEEP BREEDING AND the comparis
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266 SHEEP BREEDING AND pretence dro
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268 SHEEP BREEDING AND Taientine, b
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270 SHEEP BREEDING AND Sybaris, bla
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272 SHEEP BREEDING AND Did thy wool
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274 SHEEP BREEDING AND Scutana, whi
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27G SHEEP BREEDING AND and clothier
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278 SHEEP BREEDING AND The reader w
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280 SHEEP BREEDING AND impression,
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CHAPTER III. SHEEP BREEDING AND PAS
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284 SHEEP BREEDING AND in the most
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286 SHEEP BREEDING AND colored brow
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288 SHEEP BREEDING AND have been al
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290 SHEEP BREEDING AND The customs
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292 SHEEP BREEDING AND expressions
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294 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. of
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296 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. th
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298 AXCIEXT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. he
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300 ANCIEXT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. sa
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302 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. mi
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304 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. ha
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306 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. pu
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308 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. of
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310 BEAVERS-WOOL. " An upper garmen
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CHAPTER VI. CAMELS-WOOL AND CAMELS-
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314 CAMELS'-WOOL AND CAMELs'-HAIR.
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;^ ^
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316 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. ton, an
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318 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. in the
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320 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. Also th
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322 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. the Kal
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324 THE COTTOX MANUFACTURE. been al
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326 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. Tenuai
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328 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. There a
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330 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. preciou
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332 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. . color
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334 ANCIENT HISTORY OF and almost i
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'^'^'* ANCIENT HISTORY OF ^Ve or th
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338 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Mr. Ralph Fi
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340 ANCIENT HISTORY OF assemblage o
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342 ANCIENT HISTORY OF fingers dry
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344 ANCIENT HISTORY OP and cleaning
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346 ANCIENT HISTORY OF bodily exert
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— 348 ANCIENT HISTORY OF publishe
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— 350 ANCIENT HISTORY OF ED THE R
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352 ANCIENT HISTORY OF " That the f
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354 ANCIENT HISTORY OP replace it h
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356 ANCIENT HISTORY OP COMPARATIVE
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PART FOURTH. ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE
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360 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Stiabo, Pano
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362 A^-CIENT history of he had an o
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364 ANCIENT HISTORY OF in the banda
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366 ANCIENT HISTORY OF companied th
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368 AK^CIENT HISTORY OF linen only,
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370 ANCIENT HISTORY OP planation. T
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372 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Ptolemy Epip
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374 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Pollux and s
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376 ANCIENT HISTORY OF general appl
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378 ANCIENT HISTORY OF produced, i.
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380 ANCIENT HISTORY OP Palestine, a
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382 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Lam. ii. 20,
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384 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Setabis et t
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386 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE LINEN MA
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388 CULTIVATION AND USES OF horses,
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390 CULTIVATION AND USES OF 2. The
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CHAPTER HI. ASBESTOS. Uses of Asbes
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394 USES OF ASBESTOS, dant qu'il le
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396 USES OF ASBESTOS. Great Khan. I
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398 USES OF ASBESTOS. The monks on
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The annexed Map (Plate VII.) is des
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402 ON pliny's natural history. and
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404 ON THE ORIGIN AND MANUFACTURE O
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414 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF APPENDIX
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416 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the cold
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418 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF 0aKTpov,
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420 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF This obs
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422 MANUFACTVRE AND USE OP leus fro
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424 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF sian cap
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426 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF done in
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428 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF Callimac
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430 MANUFACTURE AND USE OP worn by
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432 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF monly wo
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434 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the fanc
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436 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF APPENDIX
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438 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the wild
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440 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF At puer
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442 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF riarij w
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444 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF that the
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446 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF net cons
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44S MANUFACTURE AND USE OF been abo
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450 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF Lydians
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452 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF The foll
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454 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF both the
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456 MANUFACTURE AND tSE OP Let this
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458 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF viii. 12
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460 MANUFACTURE AND USE OP full of
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462 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF taken al
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464 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF NETS BY
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