The history of silk, cotton, linen, wool, and other fibrous ... - Cd3wd.com

86 SILK AND GOLDEN TEXTURES OF THE ANCIENTS.
the Persians for the display of textures of gold, as well as every
other kind of luxury in dress. A tiara interwoven with gold
was one of the presents which Xerxes gave as an expression of
his gratitude to the citizens of Abdera {Herod, viii. 120.).
The Indians also employed the same kind of ornament (*S'^ra6o,
L. XV. c. i. § 69.) ; and the Periegesis [1. 881.) of Priscian at-
tributes the use of it to the Arabians*.
The history of Alexander the Great affords frequent traces
of the use of cloth interwoven with gold in Persia. Garments
made of such cloth were among the most splendid of the
spoils of Persepolist.
Justin (L. xii.) says that Alexander, to avoid offending the
Persians, ordered his principal attendants to adopt for their
dress " longam vestem auream purpureamque." The dress
prescribed was therefore of fine woollen cloth, or probably of
silk, dyed purple, and interwoven with gold. Among the vast
multitudes which preceded the King of Persia when he ad-
vanced to oppose Alexander, was the band of ten thousand
called the Immortals, whose dress was earned to the ' ne plus
ultra' of barbaric splendor, some wearing golden collars, others
"cloth variegated with gold." Some idea of the extravagance
and pomp of the Persians on this occasion may be formed from
the following passage, taken from RolUn's " Ancient History."
*' The order Darius observed in his march was as follows. Before the army
were carried silver altars, on which burned the fire, called by them sacred and
eternal ; and these were followed by the magi, singing hymns, and 365 youths in
scarlet robes. After these proceeded a consecrated car, drami by white horses
and followed by one of an extraordinarj- size, which they called " The horse of the
Bun." The equerries were dressed in white, each bearing in his hand a golden
rod. Next appeared ten sumptuous chariots, enriched with curious sculptures in
gold and silver ; and then the vanguard of the horse, composed of twelve different
nations, in various armor. This body was succeeded by those of the Persians,
called " The Immortals," amounting to 10,000, who surpassed the rest of the
barbarians in the extravagant richness and splendor of their dress ; for they all
wore collars of gold, and were clothed in robes of gold tissue, having large
sleeves, garnished with precious stones. About thirty paces from them came the
* In Europe the nearest approach to oriental habits in regard to dress was made
by the Gauls. Their principal men wore collars, armlets, and bracelets of gold,
and clothes enriched with the same metal.
t Diod. Sic, L. xvii. 70. p. 214. Wessel.
—
Strabo, L. iv. cap. 4. § 5.