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430 MANUFACTURE AND USE OP worn by a person to indicate that he was coming from a journey. In the prologue to the Amphitryo, ]Mercury says, Ego has babebo hie usque in petaso pinnulas, Turn meo patri autem toruhis inerit aureus Sub petaso : id signum Amphitruoni non erit. Mercury and his father Jupiter are here supposed to be attired like Sosia and Amphitryo his master, both of whom had been travelling and were returning home. At the same time there is an allusion to the winged hat of Mercury, of which more hereafter. Again, in act i. scene 1. 1. 2S7, the petasus is attributed to Sosia, because he is supposed to be coming from a journey ; and to Mercury, both because it was commonly attributed to him, and because on this occasion he was person- ating Sosia. The Romans were less addicted to the use of the petasus than the Greeks : they often wore it when they were from home ; but that they did not consider it at all necessary to wear hats in the open air is manifest from the remark of Suetonius about the Emperor Augustus, that he could not even bear the winter's sun, and hence " domi quoque non nisi petatasus sub divo spatiabatur." {August. 82.) Cahgula permitted the senators to wear them at the theatres as a protection from the sun (Dio. Cass. hx. 7. p. 909, ed. Reimari). What was meant by wearing hats '• according to the Thessalian fashion" is by no means clear. Perhaps the Thessalians may have worn hats resembling those of their neighbors, the Macedonians, and of the shape of these we may form some conception from the coins of the Macedonian kings. One of these coins from the collec- tion in the British Museum is copied in Plate IX. Fig. 15. It is a coin of the reign of Alexander I. and exhibits a Mace- donian warrior standing by the side of his horse, holding two spears in his left hand, and wearing a hat with a broad brim turned upwards. This Macedonian petasus is called the Causia (ca«ffto)*, and was adopted by the Romanst, and more * Val. Max. v. 1. Extern. 4. Pausan., op. Eustath. in II. ii. 121. It is to be observed, that the causia and petasus are opposed to one anotlier by a writer in Athenaeus (L. xii. 537, e), as if the causia was not a petasus ! t Plautus, Mil. iv. 4. 42. Pers. i. 3. 75. Antip. Thess. in Brunch Anal. ii. 111.
FELT BY THE ANCIENTS. 431 especially by the Emperor Caracalla, who, as Herodian states, aimed to imitate Alexander the Great in his costume. It appears probable, nevertheless, that the turning up of the brim was not peculiar to the Macedonians, and it may have depended altogether on accident or fancy ; for we find instances of it on painted fictile vases, where there is no reason to suppose that any reference was intended either to Macedonia or Thessaly. Fig. 10. Plate IX. for example, is taken from the head of Bellerophon, on one of Sir William Hamilton's vases* ; and the left-hand figure from a fictile vase at Vienna, engraved by Ginzrott. This hat is remarkable for the boss at the top, which we observe also on the jEtolian coins, and in various other examples. — In connection with the above quoted expression of Dio Cas- sius it may be observed further, that besides the causia two varieties of the petasus seem to be alluded to by several ancient authors, viz. the Thessalian, and the Arcadian or Laconiaa. How they were distinguished, cannot be ascertained, but the passages which mention them will now be produced, that the reader may judge for himself The ThessaUan variety is mentioned by Dio Cassius, by Theophrastus, as above quoted (p. 427), and by Callimachus in the following fragment, which is preserved in the Scholia on Sophocles, (Ed. Col. 316. And about his head lay a felt, newly come from Thessaly, as a protection from wet. Frag. 124. ed. Erncsti. The frenzied Cynic philosopher Menedenuis, among other peculiarities, wore an Arcadian hat, HAVING THE TWELVE SIGNS OF THE ZODIAC WOVEN INTO IT: ! Ammianus (Brunck, Anal. ii. 384.) represents an orator dedicating " an Arcadian hat" to Mercury, who Avas the patron of his art, and also a native of Arcadia. Herodes Atticus wore " the Arcadian hat"' at Athens, as a protection from the sun ; and the language of Philostralus, in recording the fact, shows that the Athenians of his time com- * Vol. i. pi. 1. t Uher die Wagen und Fuhrwerke der Alien, vol. i. p. 342. t Diog. Laert. vi. 102. See Gilroy'a Treatise on the Art of Weaving, Amer« ican edition, p. 446.
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Digitized by the Internet Arciiive
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THE HISTORY OF SILK, COTTON, LINEN,
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PREFACE. History, until a recent pe
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PREFACE. Vll How many of the grande
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PREFACE. jx life from the paintings
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COINTENTS. PART FIRST. ANCIENT HIST
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CONTENTS. Xlll fiilk-worra never br
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CONTENTS. XV silk-worms of India—
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CONTENTS. Xvii Pliny's account of S
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CONTENTS. Xix PART THIRD. ANCIENT H
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CONTENTS. XXI APPENDICES APPENDIX A
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LIST OF PLATES. I. Frontispiece—C
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2 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF va
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4 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF fe
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6 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF st
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: 8 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF
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10 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF t
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12 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF T
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14 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF S
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16 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF T
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18 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF g
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20 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF W
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CHAPTER II. HISTORY OF THE SILK MAN
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24 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF O
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26 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF I
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28 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OP a
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30 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OP W
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32 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF s
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34 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF l
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— 36 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE
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38 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF C
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40 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE, ETC
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44 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF t
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46 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF p
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48 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OP t
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60 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF c
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52 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF s
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54 CULTIVATION- AND MANUFACTURE OF
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56 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OP A
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58 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF C
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60 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF V
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62 CULTIVATION AND :MANUFACTURE OF
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64 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF K
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CHAPTER IV. HISTORY OF THE SILK MAN
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82 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OP S
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CHAPTER V. SILK AND GOLDEN TEXTURES
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86 SILK AND GOLDEN TEXTURES OF THE
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CHAPTER VI. SILVER TEXTURES, &c., O
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SILVER TEXTURES, ETC., OF THE ANCIE
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SILVER TEXTURES, ETC., OF THE ANCIE
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 99 in
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 101 a
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 103 w
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 105 a
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 107 W
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM, 109 a
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. of an
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 113 b
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 115 w
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DESCRIPTION OF THE SILK-WORM. 117 *
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Silk Wfvrm. F/air///. ( v.coaii:;,
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120 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE OF
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CHINESE MODE OF REARING' SILK-WORMS
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CHINESE MODE OF REARING SILK-WORMS,
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CHTNESE MODE OF REARmO SILK-WORMS,
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CHINESE MODE OF RAISING SILK-WORMS,
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CHINESE MODE OP REARING SILK-WORMS,
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER. 139
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SILKEN MATERIAL OP THE SPIDER. 145
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SILKEN MATERIAL OP THE SPIDER, 157
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER 1G3 n
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SILKEN MATERIAL OF THE SPIDER. in i
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Spider;;. Willi the processes
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CHAPTER X. FIBRES OR SILKEN MATERIA
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— 180 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE
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186 FIBRES, on SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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188 FIBRES, OR SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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190 FIBRES, OR SILKEN MATERIAL OF T
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192 THE MALLOW, ITS USES BY THE ANC
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196 THE MALLOW. ITS USES BY THE AN'
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198 THE MALLOW, ITS USKS BY THE ANC
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CHAPTER XIII. SPARTUM, OR SPANISH B
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204 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : Stil
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206 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : of t
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208 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : seem
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210 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : info
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212 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : C. B
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214 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM : feed
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216 SPARTUM OR SPANISH BROOM. The a
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^^ 218 SHEEP BREEDING AND ^^^le^e a
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220 SHEEP BREEDING AND is given us
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^ 222 SHEEP BREEDING AND sheep of S
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224 SHEEP BREEDING AND and enteipri
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226 SHEEP BREEDING AND proofs of th
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228 SHEEP BREEDING AND sheep were h
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230 SHEEP BREEDING AND "Anciently M
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232 SHEEP BREEDING AND are among th
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234 SHEEP BREEDING AND strong and l
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236 SHEEP BREEDING AND represents t
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238 SHEEP BREEDING AND practice est
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240 SHEEP BREEDING AND the principa
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242 SHEEP BREEDING AND Warbling wit
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244 SHEEP BREEDING AND Time has spa
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246 §HEEP BREEDING AND at the base
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248 SHEEP BREEDING AND ceeding ages
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250 SHEEP BREEDING AND Minerva, who
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252 SHEEP BREEDING AND natural feat
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254 SHEEP BREEDING AND of remark, t
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CHAPTER II. SHEEP-BREEDING AND PAST
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258 SHEEP BREEDING AND " I will set
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260 SHEEP BREEDING AND for the nymp
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262 SHEEP BREEDING AND which they w
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264 SHEEP BREEDING AND the comparis
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266 SHEEP BREEDING AND pretence dro
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268 SHEEP BREEDING AND Taientine, b
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270 SHEEP BREEDING AND Sybaris, bla
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272 SHEEP BREEDING AND Did thy wool
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274 SHEEP BREEDING AND Scutana, whi
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27G SHEEP BREEDING AND and clothier
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278 SHEEP BREEDING AND The reader w
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280 SHEEP BREEDING AND impression,
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CHAPTER III. SHEEP BREEDING AND PAS
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284 SHEEP BREEDING AND in the most
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286 SHEEP BREEDING AND colored brow
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288 SHEEP BREEDING AND have been al
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290 SHEEP BREEDING AND The customs
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292 SHEEP BREEDING AND expressions
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294 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. of
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296 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. th
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298 AXCIEXT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. he
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300 ANCIEXT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. sa
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302 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. mi
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304 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. ha
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306 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. pu
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308 ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE GOAT. of
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310 BEAVERS-WOOL. " An upper garmen
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CHAPTER VI. CAMELS-WOOL AND CAMELS-
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314 CAMELS'-WOOL AND CAMELs'-HAIR.
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;^ ^
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316 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. ton, an
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318 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. in the
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320 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. Also th
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322 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. the Kal
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324 THE COTTOX MANUFACTURE. been al
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326 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. Tenuai
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328 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. There a
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330 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. preciou
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332 THE COTTON MANUFACTURE. . color
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334 ANCIENT HISTORY OF and almost i
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'^'^'* ANCIENT HISTORY OF ^Ve or th
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338 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Mr. Ralph Fi
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340 ANCIENT HISTORY OF assemblage o
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342 ANCIENT HISTORY OF fingers dry
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344 ANCIENT HISTORY OP and cleaning
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346 ANCIENT HISTORY OF bodily exert
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— 348 ANCIENT HISTORY OF publishe
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— 350 ANCIENT HISTORY OF ED THE R
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352 ANCIENT HISTORY OF " That the f
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354 ANCIENT HISTORY OP replace it h
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356 ANCIENT HISTORY OP COMPARATIVE
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PART FOURTH. ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE
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360 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Stiabo, Pano
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362 A^-CIENT history of he had an o
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364 ANCIENT HISTORY OF in the banda
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366 ANCIENT HISTORY OF companied th
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368 AK^CIENT HISTORY OF linen only,
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370 ANCIENT HISTORY OP planation. T
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372 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Ptolemy Epip
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374 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Pollux and s
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376 ANCIENT HISTORY OF general appl
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378 ANCIENT HISTORY OF produced, i.
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380 ANCIENT HISTORY OP Palestine, a
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382 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Lam. ii. 20,
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384 ANCIENT HISTORY OF Setabis et t
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Page 432 and 433: 388 CULTIVATION AND USES OF horses,
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Page 448 and 449: 402 ON pliny's natural history. and
Page 450 and 451: 404 ON THE ORIGIN AND MANUFACTURE O
Page 460: 414 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF APPENDIX
Page 466 and 467: 416 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the cold
Page 468 and 469: 418 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF 0aKTpov,
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Page 472 and 473: 422 MANUFACTVRE AND USE OP leus fro
Page 474 and 475: 424 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF sian cap
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Page 478 and 479: 428 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF Callimac
Page 482 and 483: 432 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF monly wo
Page 484 and 485: 434 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the fanc
Page 486 and 487: 436 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF APPENDIX
Page 488 and 489: 438 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF the wild
Page 490 and 491: 440 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF At puer
Page 492 and 493: 442 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF riarij w
Page 494 and 495: 444 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF that the
Page 496 and 497: 446 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF net cons
Page 498 and 499: 44S MANUFACTURE AND USE OF been abo
Page 500 and 501: 450 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF Lydians
Page 502 and 503: 452 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF The foll
Page 504 and 505: 454 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF both the
Page 506 and 507: 456 MANUFACTURE AND tSE OP Let this
Page 508 and 509: 458 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF viii. 12
Page 510 and 511: 460 MANUFACTURE AND USE OP full of
Page 512 and 513: 462 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF taken al
Page 514 and 515: 464 MANUFACTURE AND USE OF NETS BY
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