The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Recommendations

Info

a climb. For hired, falls were the primary cause of death during descent from a summit bid. Table D-21 gives the causes of death for members on summit day (while ascending or descending in a summit bid). Across all altitudes, falls are by far and away the leading of cause of death, from 100% for the 6000ers down to 50% for Everest. In general as peaks become higher, other factors come into play. For the 7000ers, avalanches are more frequent and for the 8000ers, the physiological factors (AMS, exhaustion, and exposure-frostbite) become more important. Unexplained disappearances are also a factor, but many of those are likely due to falls. And across all altitudes, falls during descent are much more prevalent (two to three times the rate of falling during ascent). Charts D-21a-b show altitudes of death on summit day for the commercial routes on Everest. For the south side, falls are the leading cause (12) followed closely by physiological causes (8) with nearly half of the deaths occurring between the South 100 Death Analysis Cause of Death Members Hired Total Descending in Smt Bid Cnt Pct Cnt Pct Cnt Pct AMS 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Exhaustion 1 1.6 0 0.0 1 1.5 Exposure/Frostbite 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Fall 36 58.1 5 83.3 41 60.3 Crevasse 2 3.2 0 0.0 2 2.9 Icefall Collapse 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Avalanche 9 14.5 0 0.0 9 13.2 Falling Rock/Ice 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Disappearance 13 21.0 1 16.7 14 20.6 Illness (non-AMS) 1 1.6 0 0.0 1 1.5 Other 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Unknown 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 62 100.0 6 100.0 68 100.0 Table D-20: Causes of death during summit bid descents for all peaks from 1950-2006 Cause of Death All Peaks 6000ers 7000ers 8000ers Everest During Summit Bids Cnt Pct Cnt Pct Cnt Pct Cnt Pct Cnt Pct AMS 13 5.6 0 0.0 1 1.7 12 7.4 4 5.4 Exhaustion 12 5.2 0 0.0 0 0.0 12 7.4 10 13.5 Exposure/Frostbite 19 8.2 0 0.0 2 3.4 17 10.4 14 18.9 Fall 140 60.6 8 88.9 37 62.7 95 58.3 36 48.6 Crevasse 4 1.7 0 0.0 2 3.4 2 1.2 0 0.0 Icefall Collapse 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 Avalanche 13 5.6 1 11.1 7 11.9 5 3.1 0 0.0 Falling Rock/Ice 2 0.9 0 0.0 2 3.4 0 0.0 0 0.0 Disappearance (Unexplained) 21 9.1 0 0.0 8 13.6 13 8.0 7 9.5 Illness (non-AMS) 3 1.3 0 0.0 0 0.0 3 1.8 1 1.4 Other 2 0.9 0 0.0 0 0.0 2 1.2 0 0.0 Unknown 2 0.9 0 0.0 0 0.0 2 1.2 2 2.7 231 100.0 9 100.0 59 100.0 163 100.0 74 100.0 Ascending in summit bid 62 26.8 3 33.3 21 35.6 38 23.3 15 20.3 Descending from summit bid 169 73.2 6 66.7 38 64.4 125 76.7 59 79.7 AMS-related 18 0 2 16 6 Weather/Storm-related 24 0 5 19 13 Table D-21: Causes of death for members while ascending or descending in summit bids from 1950-2006
5 4 3 2 1 0 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 7500- 7599m 7600- 7699m Member Deaths on Summit Day for Everest S Col-SE Ridge Route (1950-2006) 7700- 7799m 7800- 7899m 7900- 7999m 8000- 8099m 8100- 8199m Chart D-21a: Causes of death for members while ascending or descending in summit bids on Everest South Col-SE Ridge commercial route from 1950-2006 (S Col=7900m, Balcony=8400m, S Summit=8750m, Hillary Step=8800m) 7500- 7599m 8200- 8299m 8300- 8399m 8400- 8499m 8500- 8599m 8600- 8699m 8700- 8799m Falls (12 Deaths) AMS, etc. (8 Deaths) Disappearance (0 Deaths) Other (1 Death) 7600- 7699m Member Deaths on Summit Day for Everest N Col-NE Ridge Route (1950-2006) 7700- 7799m 7800- 7899m 7900- 7999m 8000- 8099m 8100- 8199m Chart D-21b: Causes of death for members while ascending or descending in summit bids on Everest North Col-NE Ridge commercial route from 1950-2006 (Normal high-camp=8300m, 1st Step=8450m, 2nd Step=8680m, 3rd Step=8700m) 8200- 8299m 8300- 8399m 8400- 8499m 8500- 8599m 8600- 8699m 8700- 8799m Falls (10 Deaths) AMS, etc. (18 Deaths) Disappearance (5 Deaths) Other (2 Deaths) 8800- 8850m 8800- 8850m Death Analysis 101
Page 3 and 4:
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5:
Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9:
the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11:
in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13:
400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15:
2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17:
government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19:
500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21:
them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23:
During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25:
250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27:
100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29:
a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31:
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33:
Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35:
1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37:
closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39:
For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41:
Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43:
40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45:
three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47:
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49:
40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51:
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 148 and 149: 146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151: In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153:
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155:
45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157:
6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159:
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161:
30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
show all

The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?