The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76 Ascent Analysis Exp Cnt Mbrs Abv BC Avg Suc Exp Days Avg Smt Days Min Smt Days Max Smt Days LEON Leonpo Gang 6979 3 7 52 38.7 32.7 24 40 LHOT Lhotse 8516 2 145 945 37.8 32.6 4 58 LSHR Lhotse Shar 8382 2 30 23 45.9 40.9 31 50 LSIS Langsisa Ri 6412 3 11 65 13.7 10.7 5 21 MAK2 Makalu II 7678 2 43 266 30.6 24.6 12 52 MAKA Makalu 8485 2 178 1273 39.6 34.4 5 65 MANA Manaslu 8163 4 190 1259 32.6 28.1 6 63 MANN Manaslu North 7157 4 9 80 26.8 22.2 8 28 NEPA Nepal Peak 7177 1 5 57 19.0 17.0 17 17 NILN Nilgiri North 7061 5 13 80 26.2 21.6 13 32 NUMB Numbur 6958 2 15 93 20.6 18.3 12 28 NUPT Nuptse 7864 2 32 169 43.2 33.4 20 46 PK29 Peak 29 7871 4 8 87 35.0 32.0 32 32 PUMO Pumori 7165 2 208 1254 18.2 14.6 2 45 PUTH Putha Hiunchuli 7246 6 29 235 18.1 14.3 6 36 RATH Rathong 6682 1 4 60 8.0 6.0 6 6 ROCN Roc Noir 7485 5 8 66 43.0 33.0 19 44 SAIP Saipal 7030 7 11 63 30.0 25.8 19 37 TAWO Tawoche 6495 2 16 74 16.4 12.6 2 21 THAM Thamserku 6618 2 13 55 20.6 18.8 2 33 TILI Tilicho 7134 5 55 428 14.7 10.9 3 23 TUKU Tukuche 6920 6 35 256 13.5 11.7 5 20 YALU Yalung Kang 8505 1 18 174 40.3 34.4 23 54 Geographical Region Codes: 1 = Kangchenjunga-Janak 5 = Annapurna-Damodar-Peri 2 = Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu 6 = Dhaulagiri-Mukut 3 = Langtang-Jugal 7 = Kanjiroba-Far West 4 = Manaslu-Ganesh Table A-36: Average duration and days to first summit for successful expeditions Oxygen and the 8000ers Charts A-37a-b show the percentage of ascents without the use of supplementary oxygen for each of the 8000m peaks for the 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 periods. The 8000m peaks can be divided into three groups of peaks of similar altitude: 8091-8188 (Annapurna I, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I, Cho Oyu) 8485-8486 (Makalu, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga) 8850 (Everest) In general as shown in the following charts, the percentages of ascents without supplementary oxygen decrease with altitude as would be logically expected. For members, the percentages of ascents without supplementary oxygen increase in 1990-2006 period over the 1950-1989 period for each peak except Everest and Cho Oyu (the commercially climbed peaks). For the commercial routes on Everest and Cho Oyu, the use of supplementary oxygen increases since most commercial clients are more interested in success than climbing style and route difficulty due to their general lack of experience and their relative high investment in the expedition in terms of cost and time. Many of them cannot devote more time to their climbing adventures due to other commitments in their lives.
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 88.2 75.0 ANN1 (8091m) 95.7 90.5 ANN1 (8091m) 75.3 Percentage of Acents w/o Supplementary Oxygen (1950-1989) 61.1 MANA (8163m) 72.0 81.3 DHA1 (8167m) 90.4 100.0 CHOY (8188m) Chart A-37a: Percentage of ascents without supplementary oxygen for 8000m peaks from 1950-1989 81.9 60.5 MANA (8163m) 82.4 79.7 43.1 16.7 MAKA (8485m) Members Hired Series3 26.1 0.0 46.2 54.6 LHOT (8516m) KANG (8586m) Percentage of Acents w/o Supplementary Oxygen (1990-2006) 81.6 71.0 DHA1 (8167m) 88.2 100.0 CHOY (8188m) w/o Com Rtes 66.7 81.7 CHOY (8188m) Com Rtes 80.1 75.3 Chart A-37b: Percentage of ascents without supplementary oxygen for 8000m peaks from 1989-2006 with commercial routes separated out for Cho Oyu and Everest 70.5 55.0 MAKA (8485m) Members Hired 40.3 15.4 LHOT (8516m) 58.9 55.8 46.7 KANG (8586m) 32.9 8.4 40.6 31.8 2.1 EVER (8850m) w/o Com Rtes 11.0 18.5 EVER (8850m) 5.3 5.1 2.1 2.1 EVER (8850m) Com Rtes Ascent Analysis 77
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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