The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Deaths by Physiological Causes Physiological factors (AMS, exhaustion, and exposure-frostbite) are the third leading cause of death for members (over 16% as shown in table D-16). 78 of those 93 deaths have occurred over 6000m (most of the others have occurred at base camp or lower shortly after expedition arrival). Of the 78 deaths above 6000m, more than half have occurred on Everest at high altitudes as shown in Chart D-31. Closer examination of the Everest deaths in Charts D-32a-b shows that 14 deaths have occurred between the First and Second Steps (8450-8680m) on the NE ridge. These 14 deaths represent 18% of all the deaths above 6000m and make this portion of the N Col-NE Ridge route on Everest extremely dangerous. 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 6000- 6249m 6250- 6499m 116 Death Analysis Member Deaths Above 6000m by AMS, Exhaustion & Exposure-Frostbite (1950-2006) 6500- 6749m 6750- 6999m 7000- 7249m 7250- 7499m 7500- 7749m 7750- 7999m 8000- 8249m 8250- 8499m Everest (43 deaths) All Peaks w/o Everest (35 deaths) Chart D-31: Member deaths above 6000m from AMS, exhaustion, and exposure-frostbite from 1950-2006 8500- 8749m 8750- 8850m
7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 7000- 7099m 7000- 7099m 7100- 7199m 7100- 7199m 7200- 7299m Member Deaths Above 7000m by AMS, Exhaustion & Exposure-Frostbite on Everest South Side (1950-2006) 7300- 7399m 7400- 7499m 7500- 7599m 7600- 7699m 7700- 7799m 7800- 7899m 7900- 7999m 8000- 8099m 8100- 8199m 8200- 8299m 8300- 8399m 8400- 8499m S Col-SE Ridge Rte (10 deaths) South Non-Commercial Rtes (5 deaths) 8500- 8599m Chart D-32a: Member deaths above 7000m from AMS, exhaustion, and exposure-frostbite on the south side of Everest from 1950-2006 7200- 7299m Member Deaths Above 7000m by AMS, Exhaustion & Exposure-Frostbite on Everest North Side (1950-2006) 7300- 7399m 7400- 7499m 7500- 7599m 7600- 7699m 7700- 7799m 7800- 7899m 7900- 7999m 8000- 8099m 8100- 8199m 8200- 8299m 8300- 8399m 8400- 8499m 8500- 8599m N Col-NE Ridge Rte (21 deaths) North Non-Commercial Rtes (4 deaths) Chart D-32b: Member deaths above 7000m from AMS, exhaustion, and exposure-frostbite on the north side of Everest from 1950-2006 8600- 8699m 8600- 8699m 8700- 8799m 8700- 8799m 8800- 8850m 8800- 8850m Death Analysis 117
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
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For all peaks, the average team mem
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Periodically, massive storms fueled
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40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
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three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
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The results indicate that the sprin
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
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100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
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Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 148 and 149: 146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151: In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153: 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155: 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157: 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159: 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161: 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164: 5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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