The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 0 Chart A-22: Member ascent rates by age groups for the commercial (NW Ridge) and non-commercial routes for Cho Oyu from 1990-2006 58 Ascent Analysis Cho Oyu Member Ascent Rates by Age Group (1990-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 70-74 yrs Commercial Rtes (NW Ridge) Non-Commercial Rtes Trend (Commercial Rtes) Trend (Non-Commercial Rtes) Everest Member Ascent Rates by Age Group (1990-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 70-74 yrs Commercial Rtes (S Col, N Col) Non-Commercial Rtes Trend (Commercial Rtes) Trend (Non-Commercial Rtes) Chart A-23: Member ascent rates by age groups for the commercial (S Col, N Col) and non-commercial routes for Everest from 1990-2006
Chart A-19 shows the difference between the 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 periods and the effect of commercial climbing when considering a climber’s age. During the 1950-1989 period (before commercial climbing), the optimal age for summiting was in the late 20s to early 30s as shown by the blue trend line in the chart. Above that age, the member ascent rate shows a slow steady decline as age increases into the 40s followed by a more rapid decline into the 50s and 60s. After age 65, there were no ascents. During the 1990-2006 period, the optimal age shifts upward to the middle to late 30s with a slower decline as climbers age beyond 40. There are also ascents by climbers in their late 60s and early 70s as shown by the red trend line. When the commercial routes on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest are factored out (green trend line), the optimal age shifts even higher into the late 30s to early 40s. The upswing of the green trend line after age 65 is due primarily to groups of Japanese seniors in excellent health with good climbing skills attempting peaks in the 6000- 6500m range. The 10 summiters of all peaks that are of age 70 or older are all Japanese. These 10 summits include two Cho Oyu summits and two Everest summits; the re mainder are low 6000ers. The oldest summiter is Nobuo Akayama who at age 75 summited Arniko Chuli (6034m) and Yemelung Kang (6024m) in 2003. Other notable ascents were of Cho Oyu in 2002 by Ms. Toshiko Uchida (age 70) and of Everest in 2003 by Yuichiro Miura (age 70), who previously gained fame in 1970 as “the man who skied down Everest” and in 2006 by Takao Arayama (also age 70, but 3 days older than Miura). Miura has vowed to return to Everest to recapture his record. Charts A-20a-b compare member ascent rates for all peaks between the 6000ers, 7000ers, and 8000ers by age groups both including and excluding the Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest commercial routes. For the 6000ers, there is a noticeable flattening of the (blue) trend line when the Ama Dablam southwest ridge route is excluded indicating higher ascent rates for climbers under 50. For the 8000ers when the Cho Oyu and Everest commer cial routes are excluded, the (green) trend line drops off at both ends indicating that middle-aged climbers (30 to 50) fare better on the more difficult 8000er routes, most likely because they usually are attempted only by more exper ienced, non-elderly climbers. Charts A-21 through A-23 compare the member ascent rates for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest by age groups for the commercial and non-commercial routes. For Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu, the member ascent rates are considerably higher for the commercial routes except in the late 30s or early 40s when the non-commercial route ascent rates nearly match or exceed the commercial route rates. For Everest, the commercial route ascent rates exceed the non-commercial route ascent rates by a comfortable margin throughout the entire age range. Ascent Analysis 59
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
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Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
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Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
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Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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