The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 1970 1971 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 Chart C-3c: Climbing activity (members above base camp) on Everest for all routes and the S Col-SE Ridge and N Col-NE Ridge routes from 1970-2006 16 Analysis of Climbing Activity Climbing Activity for Everest (1970-2006) 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Members Above BC (All Routes) Members Above BC (S Col-SE Ridge, N Col-NE Ridge) Trend (All Routes) Trend (S Col-SE Ridge, N Col-NE Ridge Routes) 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 Relative Popularity of Commercial Routes (1970-2006) (Average Members Above BC) 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Trend (Ama Dablam) Trend (Cho Oyu) Trend (Everest) Chart C-3d: Relative climbing activity (average members above base camp) for the commercial routes on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest from 1970-2006
Gunfire on the Nangpa La From The Seasonal Stories of Elizabeth Hawley – Summer-Autumn 2002 In autumn of 2002, a two-man American expedition planned to make the first ascent of Nangpa Gosum I, which is in the Cho Oyu area, but they never got above base camp. Dave Morton and Jeff Lamoureux unexpectedly encountered three soldiers from China who had come into Nepal via the Nangpa La, a major pass between Nepal and Tibet. The climbers had pitched their base camp at 5100m at the foot of the southeast face of their 7312m objective, and then on the 20th of September went around to its west side intending to look for a possible descent route via the north ridge. The Nangpa Gosum range is just south of the Tibet-Nepal border, if not actually on it, and the western end of Nangpa Gosum I is not far from the 5700m Nangpa La. Suddenly they were fired on by two men who turned out to be Chinese soldiers; it was the first incident of this kind ever to befall any mountaineers within Nepalese territory. The Americans were unharmed, but they immediately abandoned any thought of climbing their mountain. “It was scarier than any climbing I’ve ever done,” Lamoureux said about their experience. Added Morton, “It was hard to figure out what their motive was, which made it more frightening.” Morton told how “a shot came at us and just missed us. We heard the bullet go right past our ears. ... We started running and there was another shot. We hid behind a rock and ditched our backpacks so we could run faster, then kept running. It seemed clear they were actually shooting towards us. There were about five shots total at us.” The Chinese appeared to keep pursuing the Americans, who managed to escape by turning up a side glacier and hiding for several hours behind rocks. They then got safely back to base camp, packed up their gear and spent the night hiking down to the nearest village, Thami. The tents of Cho Oyu expeditions’ advance base camps were on the other side of the border not far from the Nangpa La, and one of the leaders who were there at the time, Russell Brice, explained the background to the incident: three soldiers of the Chinese army, the People’s Liberation Army (PLA), were searching for a group of about 20 Amdos, Tibetans from northwest Tibet. Since the Nangpa La is an important escape route for Tibetans fleeing their country, usually to passing through Nepal to join the Dalai Lama in northern India, a unit of the PLA is permanently posted close to Cho Oyu base camp on a highway. The three soldiers found a woman lying down near the pass; she probably was a decoy, for when they went to look at her closely, they were unexpectedly attacked by Amdos, who hit them over the head with rocks and stole two of their guns before escaping across the pass into Nepal. The three soldiers, two of who were Tibetans themselves while only one was Han Chinese, chased after them the next day. The night after that the two Tibetan soldiers came back across the Nangpa La and slept in one of Brice’s advance base camp tents. They had no sleeping bags, warm clothing or food. On the third day, 15 to 20 more soldiers arrived at advance base camp looking for the same group of Amdos. Some searched the moraine, some went to the Nangpa La and returned to advance base. Three of them spent the night in Brice’s tent and the rest slept in tents of a joint Japanese-Chinese/ Tibetan women’s Cho Oyu expedition. Next day the soldiers went back to their encampment near the road. Later that morning shots were heard at advance base camp, fired by the Han Chinese soldier from the original trio who was now crawling, dragging himself through the snow and firing to attract attention. Brice, his Sherpas and some Tibetans employed as Sherpas by the women’s expedition went to investigate and brought the unfortunate soldier into camp. Brice speculates that the Americans were caught in crossfire between the Amdos and the PLA. Note: A similar incident occurred in the autumn of 2006 when Chinese soldiers fired upon a group of Tibetans crossing the Nangpa La; a Tibetan nun was killed during this encounter. Analysis of Climbing Activity 17
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
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had a hard time making her own plat
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60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
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Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
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Members have higher percentage of a
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considerable effort through deep sn
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3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
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3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
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Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
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when five Austrians and their Sherp
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
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days in 1975 (the first verified as
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Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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