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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Gunfire on <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La<br />

From <strong>The</strong> Seasonal Stories of Elizabeth Hawley – Summer-Autumn 2002<br />

In autumn of 2002, a two-man American expedition planned to make <strong>the</strong> first ascent of Nangpa<br />

Gosum I, which is in <strong>the</strong> Cho Oyu area, but <strong>the</strong>y never got above base camp. Dave Morton and Jeff<br />

Lamoureux unexpectedly encountered three soldiers from China who had come into Nepal via <strong>the</strong><br />

Nangpa La, a major pass between Nepal and Tibet.<br />

<strong>The</strong> climbers had pitched <strong>the</strong>ir base camp at 5100m at <strong>the</strong> foot of <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast face of <strong>the</strong>ir 7312m<br />

objective, and <strong>the</strong>n on <strong>the</strong> 20th of September went around to its west side intending to look for a<br />

possible descent route via <strong>the</strong> north ridge. <strong>The</strong> Nangpa Gosum range is just south of <strong>the</strong> Tibet-Nepal<br />

border, if not actually on it, and <strong>the</strong> western end of Nangpa Gosum I is not far from <strong>the</strong> 5700m<br />

Nangpa La.<br />

Suddenly <strong>the</strong>y were fired on <strong>by</strong> two men who turned out to be Chinese soldiers; it was <strong>the</strong> first<br />

incident of this kind ever to befall any mountaineers within Nepalese territory. <strong>The</strong> Americans were<br />

unharmed, but <strong>the</strong>y immediately abandoned any thought of climbing <strong>the</strong>ir mountain. “It was scarier<br />

than any climbing I’ve ever done,” Lamoureux said about <strong>the</strong>ir experience. Added Morton, “It was<br />

hard to figure out what <strong>the</strong>ir motive was, which made it more frightening.”<br />

Morton told how “a shot came at us and just missed us. We heard <strong>the</strong> bullet go right past our ears.<br />

... We started running and <strong>the</strong>re was ano<strong>the</strong>r shot. We hid behind a rock and ditched our backpacks<br />

so we could run faster, <strong>the</strong>n kept running. It seemed clear <strong>the</strong>y were actually shooting towards us.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re were about five shots total at us.” <strong>The</strong> Chinese appeared to keep pursuing <strong>the</strong> Americans, who<br />

managed to escape <strong>by</strong> turning up a side glacier and hiding for several hours behind rocks. <strong>The</strong>y <strong>the</strong>n<br />

got safely back to base camp, packed up <strong>the</strong>ir gear and spent <strong>the</strong> night hiking down to <strong>the</strong> nearest<br />

village, Thami.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tents of Cho Oyu expeditions’ advance base camps were on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side of <strong>the</strong> border not far<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La, and one of <strong>the</strong> leaders who were <strong>the</strong>re at <strong>the</strong> time, Russell Brice, explained <strong>the</strong><br />

background to <strong>the</strong> incident: three soldiers of <strong>the</strong> Chinese army, <strong>the</strong> People’s Liberation Army (PLA),<br />

were searching for a group of about 20 Amdos, Tibetans from northwest Tibet. Since <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La<br />

is an important escape route for Tibetans fleeing <strong>the</strong>ir country, usually to passing through Nepal<br />

to join <strong>the</strong> Dalai Lama in nor<strong>the</strong>rn India, a unit of <strong>the</strong> PLA is permanently posted close to Cho Oyu<br />

base camp on a highway.<br />

<strong>The</strong> three soldiers found a woman lying down near <strong>the</strong> pass; she probably was a decoy, for when <strong>the</strong>y<br />

went to look at her closely, <strong>the</strong>y were unexpectedly attacked <strong>by</strong> Amdos, who hit <strong>the</strong>m over <strong>the</strong> head<br />

with rocks and stole two of <strong>the</strong>ir guns before escaping across <strong>the</strong> pass into Nepal. <strong>The</strong> three soldiers,<br />

two of who were Tibetans <strong>the</strong>mselves while only one was Han Chinese, chased after <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> next<br />

day. <strong>The</strong> night after that <strong>the</strong> two Tibetan soldiers came back across <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La and slept in one<br />

of Brice’s advance base camp tents. <strong>The</strong>y had no sleeping bags, warm clothing or food.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> third day, 15 to 20 more soldiers arrived at advance base camp looking for <strong>the</strong> same group<br />

of Amdos. Some searched <strong>the</strong> moraine, some went to <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La and returned to advance base.<br />

Three of <strong>the</strong>m spent <strong>the</strong> night in Brice’s tent and <strong>the</strong> rest slept in tents of a joint Japanese-Chinese/<br />

Tibetan women’s Cho Oyu expedition. Next day <strong>the</strong> soldiers went back to <strong>the</strong>ir encampment near <strong>the</strong><br />

road.<br />

Later that morning shots were heard at advance base camp, fired <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> Han Chinese soldier from<br />

<strong>the</strong> original trio who was now crawling, dragging himself through <strong>the</strong> snow and firing to attract<br />

attention. Brice, his Sherpas and some Tibetans employed as Sherpas <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> women’s expedition<br />

went to investigate and brought <strong>the</strong> unfortunate soldier into camp. Brice speculates that <strong>the</strong><br />

Americans were caught in crossfire between <strong>the</strong> Amdos and <strong>the</strong> PLA.<br />

Note: A similar incident occurred in <strong>the</strong> autumn of 2006 when Chinese soldiers fired upon a group of<br />

Tibetans crossing <strong>the</strong> Nangpa La; a Tibetan nun was killed during this encounter.<br />

<strong>Analysis</strong> of Climbing Activity 17

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