The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Deadliest Peaks for Members The next group of charts shows member death rates for the deadliest peaks in Nepal, those peaks with member death rates above average and with some significant amount of climbing activity. Chart D-4 shows the 6000m peaks with member death rates above average for peaks with 25 or more members above base camp. All of these peaks have death rates higher than the mean death rate of 0.63% for all 6000ers. But it should also be noted that most 6000m peaks only have one or two member deaths, which means that a single accident can easily alter the results. Only Langsisa Ri with three Japanese deaths in 1973, Kang Guru with seven French deaths in 2005, and Ama Dablam with and one British and two Swedish deaths in 2006 have more fatalities, all of which occurred in single avalanche accidents; the two Austrian deaths on Chobutse also were the result of a single avalanche. Langsisa Ri, Kang Guru, and Chobutse are the only peaks with statistically significantly higher death rates given the number of deaths and the numbers of climbers attempting the peak. Chart D-5 shows the 7000m peaks with member death rates above average for peaks with 75 or more members above base camp. All of these peaks have death rates equal to or higher than the mean death rate of 2.10% for all 7000ers. Dhaulagiri IV (7661m) has the highest death rate for members with nearly four times the mean. Five of the nine member deaths on Dhaulagiri IV occurred in one accident 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0.46 AMAD (15/3275) 0.63 All 6000ers (40/6358) Chart D-4: Member death rates for selected 6000m peaks with 25+ members above base camp from 1950-2006 (the death rate is above the column bar; the death and above BC counts are below) 86 Death Analysis 1.18 KOTA (1/85) Deadliest 6000m Peaks for Members (1950-2006) 1.35 TAWO (1/74) 1.40 DORJ (2/143) 1.92 LEON (1/52) 2.70 RAKS (1/37) 3.23 NAMP (1/31) 4.62 LSIS (3/65) 4.65 KGUR (8/172) 6.25 CHOB (2/32)
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.10 7000ers (171/ 8197) 2.12 JANU (6/280) 2.22 GYAC (2/90) 2.53 CHRW (2/79) Deadliest 7000m Peaks for Members (1950-2006) 2.64 PUMO (32/ 1254) 2.98 NUPT (5/169) 3.09 ANNS (6/194) 3.45 GANG (5/144) Chart D-5: Member death rates for selected 7000m peaks with 75+ members above base camp from 1950-2006 (the death rate is above the column bar; the death and above BC counts are below) 0.65 CHOY (32/4920) 0.95 LHOT (9/945) 1.63 EVER (129/7928) 3.57 ANN2 (6/168) 3.67 ANN3 (8/218) 3.76 MAK2 (10/266) 4.21 LANG (11/263) Deadliest 8000m Peaks for Members (1950-2006) 1.73 MAKA (22/1273) 1.77 All 8000ers (360/20365) 2.80 DHA1 (43/1538) 4.49 APIM (4/88) 4.60 PK29 (4/87) 5.29 HIME (10/189) Chart D-6: Member death rates for 8000m peaks with 150+ members above base camp from 1950-2006 (the death rate is above the column bar; the death and above BC counts are below) 2.87 YALU (5/174) 2.98 KANG (24/805) 3.26 MANA (41/1259) 4.15 ANN1 (43/1037) 8.18 DHA4 (9/110) 4.27 LSHR (10/234) Death Analysis 87
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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