The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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government starting in 1997 opened over 150 new peaks for mountaineering, many in the 6000m range. For the 7000ers, the 1980s was the most active period, after which interest declined except for the large spike in 1994 due to extensive Indian activity on the Kabru massif on the Nepal-Sikkim border: one expedition of 27 climbers to three Kabru peaks (for a total of 81 members above base camp), twelve expeditions to Pumori (65 above base camp), and nine expeditions to Baruntse (58 above base camp), all of which accounted for more than half of the climbers that season. There also was renewed interest in the early 2000s of some of the secondary commercial peaks such as Annapurna IV, Himlung, Pumori, and Tilicho. For the 8000ers excluding the ACE commercial routes, the late 1980s was the most active period, after which there has been a steady decline. Only one new 8000m peak was added to the list of newly opened peaks, the very difficult and almost inaccessible middle summit of Lhotse (8410m), which was success fully climbed in 2001 from the South Col to the north ridge/face of Lhotse by a very talented Russian team led by Sergei Timofeev. The middle summit of Lhotse is unlikely to be climbed again unless there is an attempt to traverse the treacherous knife-edged ridge of the three Lhotse summits, Lhotse Main, Lhotse Middle, and Lhotse Shar. Charts C-3a-c show climbing activity on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest. 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 Chart C-3a: Climbing activity (members above base camp) on Ama Dablam for all routes and the SW Ridge route from 1970-2006 On Ama Dablam from the mid-1970s through the 1980s, climbing activity although minimal was spread out across various routes with the southwest ridge, north ridge, and south face being the most popular. However, since the early 1990s, almost all 14 Analysis of Climbing Activity Climbing Activity for Ama Dablam (1970-2006) 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Members Above BC (All Routes) Members Above BC (SW Ridge) Trend (All Routes) Trend (SW Ridge Route)
activity has been on the south west ridge route as indicated by the closeness of the two trend lines in Chart C-3a. Only a few have ventured onto the northwest and northeast ridges, perhaps to escape “the crowds.” In 2001 Rich Cross and the late Julian Cartwright climbed the entire length of the northwest ridge, the first time it had been done successfully. On Cho Oyu much of the early climbing activity was from the Gokyo Valley on the Nepal side since the original northwest ridge route climbed by the Austrian expedition in 1954 was inaccessible to most climbers except for those daring few who ventured illegally across the Nangpa La when Chinese border guards occasionally patrolling the area were absent. But once the northwest ridge route opened up from China in 1987, most climbers switched to this route (approach ing from Tingri) as indicated by the convergence of the trend lines in Chart C-3b, since the alternative southwest ridge and south face of Cho Oyu were much too difficult and dangerous. There have been only three attempts on the south side of Cho Oyu from the Gokyo Valley during the last ten years (two teams from South Korean in 2000 and a Slovenian team in 2006). Climbing Cho Oyu from the Chinese side has in general been successful, but there have been occasional incidents that have upset the tranquility (see inset box following). The early expeditions to Everest went for the traditional South Col and North Col routes, but then in the 1980s much of the activity ventured away from these two routes to the more challenging southwest face, north face, and west ridge routes as shown by the widening gap in the trend lines in Chart C-3c. The larger, more nationalistic teams had already succeeded via the traditional southeast ridge route and smaller alpinestyle teams of elite climbers looking for more difficult challenges were now replacing 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 Climbing Activity for Cho Oyu (1970-2006) 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 Members Above BC (All Routes) Members Above BC (NW Ridge) Trend (All Routes) Trend (NW Ridge Route) Chart C-3b: Climbing activity (members above base camp) on Cho Oyu for all routes and the NW Ridge route from 1970-2006 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Analysis of Climbing Activity 15
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
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had a hard time making her own plat
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60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
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Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
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Members have higher percentage of a
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considerable effort through deep sn
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3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
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3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
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Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
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when five Austrians and their Sherp
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
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days in 1975 (the first verified as
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Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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