The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 20 0 0 Chart C-8c: Members above base camp from 1990-2006 for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest commercial routes 32 Analysis of Climbing Activity Members Above Base Camp for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Everest by Age Groups (1990-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 1990-2006 AMAD Com Rtes 1990-2006 CHOY Com Rtes 1990-2006 EVER Com Rtes Trend (1990-2006 AMAD Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 CHOY Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 EVER Com Rtes) Women Above Base Camp for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and Everest by Age Groups (1990-2006) 15-19 yrs 20-24 yrs 25-29 yrs 30-34 yrs 35-39 yrs 40-44 yrs 45-49 yrs 50-54 yrs 55-59 yrs 60-64 yrs 65-69 yrs 1990-2006 AMAD Com Rtes 1990-2006 CHOY Com Rtes 1990-2006 EVER Com Rtes Trend (1990-2006 AMAD Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 CHOY Com Rtes) Trend (1990-2006 EVER Com Rtes) Chart C-8d: Women members above base camp from 1990-2006 for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest commercial routes
Activity by Age and Gender Charts C-8a-b show the age group distribution for all members and women members above base camp for all peaks from 1970 to 1989 and from 1990 to 2006 with the ACE commercial routes separated out for the latter period. For the 1970-1989 period, the majority of the climbers were in their late twenties to early thirties with a more rapid decline for those in their late thirties and older. The 1950-1969 period has a pattern similar to the 1970-1989 period, but in much smaller numbers; however, it is excluded from the charts because of the large number of climbers with unknown ages. More recently for the 1990-2006 period, the average age of climbers has both increased and spread out over a wider age range with more climbers in their forties, fifties, and older. This increase is even more pronounced when looking at climbers tackling the ACE commercial routes. Women members follow a similar pattern with slightly younger average ages and a higher propensity to climb the ACE commercial routes. Charts C-8c-d show the age group distribution for all members and women members above base camp for each of the ACE commercial peaks from 1990 to 2006. For all members, the numbers of climbers and their average ages increase with peak altitude with Everest attracting more and older climbers than Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam. For women, the numbers are more equally distributed among the three peaks. Activity by Citizenship Table C-9 shows climbing activity by citizenship for the 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 periods with the ACE commercial routes separated out in the latter period. During the 1950-1989 period, Japanese climbers dominated the Nepal Himalaya by a wide margin, most likely due to the popularity of climbing in Japan and the relative All Peaks 1950-1989 All Peaks 1990-2006 w/o ACE Commercial Routes ACE Commercial Routes 1990-2006 Country Mbrs Women Country Mbrs Women Country Mbrs Women Japan 3027 130 Japan 1109 122 USA 1843 191 France 1055 113 France 1091 194 UK 1076 95 USA 1038 115 Spain 742 48 Spain 887 57 UK 944 39 USA 737 73 France 733 113 W Germany 676 49 S Korea 694 15 Germany 679 73 S Korea 672 16 UK 669 52 Italy 628 41 Spain 662 25 Germany 658 80 S Korea 591 44 Italy 646 26 Italy 535 29 Japan 553 94 Poland 583 38 Switzerland 442 55 Switzerland 468 64 Switzerland 570 46 Austria 393 47 Austria 409 46 Austria 469 9 Russia 319 11 Russia 302 14 India 403 20 Slovenia 292 10 Australia 290 28 Yugoslavia 365 14 India 267 12 Canada 256 33 Czechoslov. 272 17 Australia 175 17 India 245 33 Table C-9: Members and Women Above Base Camp by Citizenship from 1950-1979 and 1990-2006 for the most active countries Analysis of Climbing Activity 33
Page 3 and 4: The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
Page 5: Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
Page 8 and 9: the first north-south traverses. Th
Page 10 and 11: in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
Page 12 and 13: 400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85:
3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87:
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
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Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
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when five Austrians and their Sherp
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
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days in 1975 (the first verified as
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Whether significant or not, the dea
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and higher spring death rates on Ma
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of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
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a climb. For hired, falls were the
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Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
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summer season as very few climbers
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
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100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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Page 142 and 143:
Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163:
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164:
5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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