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The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Deaths <strong>by</strong> Expedition Years<br />

Chart D-35 shows <strong>the</strong> member and hired personnel death rates <strong>by</strong> expedition year in<br />

5-year steps for all peaks.<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

3.5<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0.5<br />

0.0<br />

2.35<br />

0.63<br />

1950-1954<br />

7/298(M),<br />

2/318(H)<br />

3.75<br />

2.72<br />

1955-1959<br />

9/240(M),<br />

7/257(H)<br />

1.97<br />

Chart D-35: Member and hired death rates <strong>by</strong> expedition year for all peaks from 1950-2006<br />

<strong>The</strong> results from <strong>the</strong> early years from 1950 to 1970 are more erratic due to <strong>the</strong> lower<br />

numbers of expeditions especially in <strong>the</strong> late 1960s when <strong>Himalaya</strong>n climbing was<br />

suspended in Nepal and before <strong>the</strong> Chinese side of <strong>the</strong> border was opened to foreign<br />

climbers in 1980. From <strong>the</strong> 1970s onward, <strong>the</strong> data in Chart D-35 show more consistent<br />

results. <strong>The</strong> trend lines show a steady decrease in fatalities and death rates starting<br />

about 1975 for both members and hired until 2005. <strong>The</strong> 2005 Kang Guru avalanche<br />

All Peaks Everest 8000ers<br />

Exp Years Above Death Death Above Death Death Above Death Death<br />

BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate<br />

1950-1954 298 7 2.35 38 0 0.00 128 1 0.78<br />

1955-1959 240 9 3.75 9 0 0.00 110 4 3.64<br />

1960-1964 559 11 1.97 109 3 2.75 138 5 3.62<br />

1965-1969 278 11 3.96 70 1 1.43 105 6 5.71<br />

1970-1974 1277 44 3.45 269 4 1.49 567 23 4.06<br />

1975-1979 1901 50 2.63 295 6 2.03 865 27 3.12<br />

1980-1984 3958 80 2.02 653 17 2.60 1952 50 2.56<br />

1985-1989 4673 117 2.50 1163 23 1.98 2783 63 2.26<br />

1990-1994 5415 73 1.35 1424 16 1.12 3385 53 1.57<br />

1995-1999 6048 74 1.22 1242 27 2.17 3852 63 1.64<br />

2000-2004 7056 58 0.82 1728 19 1.10 4273 46 1.08<br />

2005-2006 3217 37 1.15 928 13 1.40 2207 19 0.86<br />

34920 571 1.64 7928 129 1.63 20365 360 1.77<br />

Table D-36: Member deaths <strong>by</strong> expedition year for all peaks, Everest, and <strong>the</strong> 8000ers<br />

from 1950-2006 (includes <strong>the</strong> 2005 Kang Guru accident)<br />

120 Death <strong>Analysis</strong><br />

Death Rates <strong>by</strong> Expedition Year for All Peaks (1950-2006)<br />

0.64<br />

1960-1964<br />

11/559(M),<br />

4/630(H)<br />

3.96<br />

2.48<br />

1965-1969<br />

11/278(M),<br />

6/242H)<br />

3.45<br />

3.79<br />

1970-1974<br />

44/1277(M),<br />

37/977(H)<br />

2.63<br />

1.58<br />

1975-1979<br />

50/1901(M),<br />

19/1200(H)<br />

2.02<br />

1.46<br />

1980-1984<br />

80/3958(M),<br />

21/1440(H)<br />

Members Hired<br />

2.50<br />

1.67<br />

1985-1989<br />

117/4673(M),<br />

26/1562(H)<br />

Trend (Members) Trend (Hired)<br />

1.35<br />

1.46<br />

1990-1994<br />

73/5415(M),<br />

28/1923(H)<br />

1.22<br />

0.83<br />

1995-1999<br />

74/6048(M),<br />

17/2046(H)<br />

0.82<br />

0.62<br />

2000-2004<br />

58/7056(M),<br />

18/2910(H)<br />

1.15<br />

1.70<br />

2005-2006<br />

30/3210(M),<br />

15/1523(H)

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