The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A-25 show member ascent rates by gender from 1950-1989 and 1990- 2006. The table and chart show that for all peaks men had significantly better ascent rates than women during the 1950-1989 period (20.7% to 15.1%), but this advantage subsequently narrowed during the 1990-2006 period (32.6% to 31.2%) and became statistically insignificant. But when the commercial routes for Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and Everest are factored out for all peaks during the 1990-2006 period, the men still have a significantly better ascent rate (23.9% to 19.6%). Women have done the best on these commercial routes, slightly trailing men on Ama Dablam and Everest, but doing better that than men on Cho Oyu. The overall ascent rates for all the commercial routes is nearly even at 40%. 62 Ascent Analysis Above BC Males Females Male/ Ascent Cnt Ascent Rate Above BC Ascent Cnt Ascent Rate Female Ascent Ratio All 6000ers (1950-1989) 2019 842 41.7 163 54 33.1 1.26 All 7000ers (1950-1989) 4104 854 20.8 250 33 13.2 1.58 All 8000ers (1950-1989) 6320 880 13.9 328 25 7.6 1.83 All Peaks (1950-1989) 12443 2576 20.7 741 112 15.1 1.37 All 6000ers (1990-2006) 3668 1817 49.5 508 223 43.9 1.13 All 6000ers w/o AMAD Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 1291 455 35.2 189 56 29.6 1.19 All 7000ers (1990-2006) 3433 787 22.9 410 72 17.6 1.31 All 8000ers (1990-2006) 12511 3792 30.3 1206 367 30.4 1.00 All 8000ers w/o CHOY-EVER Com Rtes (1990-2006) 4514 970 21.5 314 51 16.2 1.32 All Peaks (1990-2006) 19612 6396 32.6 2124 662 31.2 1.05 All Peaks w/o ACE Com Rtes (1990-2006) 9238 2212 23.9 913 179 19.6 1.22 Ama Dablam Com Rtes (1990-2006) 2377 1362 57.3 319 167 52.4 1.09 Cho Oyu Com Rtes (1990-2006) 3906 1503 38.5 434 176 40.6 0.95 Everest Com Rtes (1990-2006) 4091 1319 32.2 458 140 30.6 1.05 AMAD-CHOY-EVER Com Rtes 1990-2006 10374 4184 40.3 1211 483 39.9 1.01 Table A-25: Member ascents by gender from 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 Statistical significances of ascent rates for men and women: 1950-1989: 1990-2006: 6000ers: M (41 .7), F (33 .1), p= .032 6000ers: M (49 .5), F (43 .9), p= .020 7000ers: M (20 .8), F (13 .2), p= .005 6000ers xAMAD: M (35.2), F (29.6), p=.152 8000ers: M (13 .9), F (7 .6), p= .002 7000ers: M (22 .9), F (17 .6), p= .016 All peaks: M (20 .7), F (15 .1), p=< .001 8000ers: M (30.3), F (30.4), p=.956 8000ers xCHOY, EVER: M (21 .5), F (16 .2), p= .033 All peaks: M (32.6), F (31.2), p=.185 All peaks xACE: M (23 .9), F (19 .6), p= .004 AMAD Com Rte: M (57.3), F (52.4), p=.106 CHOY Com Rte: M (38.5), F (40.6), p=.430 EVER Com Rtes: M (32.2), F (30.6), p=.499 p-values for statistically significant differences (p
60 50 40 30 20 10 0 2.0 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0 41.7 33.1 All 6000ers (1950- 1989) 1.26 All 6000ers (1950- 1989) 20.8 13.9 13.2 All 7000ers (1950- 1989) 1.57 All 7000ers (1950- 1989) 7.6 All 8000ers (1950- 1989) 20.7 15.1 All Peaks (1950- 1989) 49.5 Member Ascent Rates by Gender 43.9 All 6000ers (1990- 2006) 35.2 29.6 All 6000ers w/o AMAD Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 22.9 17.6 All 7000ers (1990- 2006) 30.3 30.4 All 8000ers (1990- 2006) Chart A-25: Member ascent rates by gender from 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 1.81 All 8000ers (1950- 1989) 1.37 All Peaks (1950- 1989) 21.5 16.2 All 8000ers w/o CHOY- EVER Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 32.6 31.2 All Peaks (1990- 2006) 23.9 19.6 All Peaks w/o AMAD- CHOY- EVER Com Rtes (1990- 2006) Male Ascent Rate Female Ascent Rate Male/Female Member Ascent Ratios 1.13 All 6000ers (1990- 2006) 1.19 All 6000ers w/o AMAD Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 1.31 All 7000ers (1990- 2006) 57.3 52.4 Ama Dablam Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 40.6 38.5 Cho Oyu Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 32.2 30.6 Everest Com Rtes (1990- 2006) Chart A-26: Male to Female member ascent ratios from 1950-1989 and 1990-2006 (red columns show better rates for men, blue columns show better rates for women, the seven columns with statistically significant differences are outlined in black) 1.00 All 8000ers (1990- 2006) 1.32 All 8000ers w/o CHOY- EVER Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 1.05 All Peaks (1990- 2006) 1.22 All Peaks w/o AMAD- CHOY- EVER Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 1.09 Ama Dablam Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 0.95 Cho Oyu Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 1.05 Everest Com Rtes (1990- 2006) 40.3 39.9 AMAD- CHOY- EVER Com Rtes 1990- 2006 1.01 AMAD- CHOY- EVER Com Rtes 1990- 2006 Ascent Analysis 63
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
Page 14 and 15: 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
Page 16 and 17: government starting in 1997 opened
Page 18 and 19: 500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
Page 20 and 21: them. In fact during the late 1980s
Page 22 and 23: During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
Page 24 and 25: 250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
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Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
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Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
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Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
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Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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