The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

Whether significant or not, the death rates are the highest in the winter season
for both members and hired as would be expected given the more difficult climbing
conditions; but considering that only more skilled climbers are likely to attempt winter
expeditions, the winter season is probably even more dangerous than what is shown in
the chart.
Tables D-12 and D-13 show death counts and rates for members and hired personnel
for selected peaks for the spring, autumn, and winter climbing seasons. The summer
season is excluded due to the low number of expeditions during the monsoon season.
Spring Autumn Winter
Above Death Death Above Death Death Above Death Death
BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate
All Peaks 15865 270 1.70 17264 270 1.56 1475 30 2.03
6000ers 1637 11 0.67 4114 26 0.63 485 3 0.62
7000ers 2651 62 2.34 5290 102 1.93 247 7 2.83
8000ers 11577 197 1.70 7860 142 1.81 743 20 2.69
KANG 648 13 2.01 131 8 6.11 26 3 11.54
MAKA 684 12 1.75 538 9 1.67 51 1 1.96
LHOT 605 4 0.66 303 5 1.65 37 0 0.00
EVER 5526 90 1.63 1978 35 1.77 274 3 1.10
CHOY 2040 17 0.83 2794 12 0.43 56 3 5.36
MANA 590 24 4.07 590 15 2.54 79 2 2.53
ANN1 403 13 3.23 490 25 5.10 139 5 3.60
DHA1 650 20 3.08 823 21 2.55 65 2 3.08
AMAD 559 5 0.89 2361 9 0.38 355 1 0.28
BARU 237 3 1.27 675 1 0.15 10 0 0.00
PUMO 374 9 2.41 827 19 2.30 53 4 7.55
Charts D-12 and D-13 show death rates for members and hired personnel for selected
peaks and peaks ranges for the spring and autumn climbing seasons. The winter and
summer seasons are excluded due to the significantly lower climbing activity during
those periods.
Overall, the spring death rates are similar to the autumn death rates, except for higher
autumn death rates on Kangchenjunga and Annapurna I for both members and hired,
94 Death Analysis
Table D-12: Member deaths by season for selected peaks from 1950-2006
Spring Autumn Winter
Above Death Death Above Death Death Above Death Death
BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate BC Cnt Rate
All Peaks 8402 86 1.02 5809 109 1.88 688 15 2.18
6000ers 511 2 0.39 1075 18 1.67 138 0 0.00
7000ers 1061 16 1.51 1521 29 1.91 87 3 3.45
8000ers 6830 68 1.00 3213 62 1.93 463 12 2.59
KANG 292 4 1.37 55 2 3.64 10 1 10.00
MAKA 344 8 2.33 161 4 2.48 0 0 0.00
LHOT 376 1 0.27 154 0 0.00 62 0 0.00
EVER 4450 28 0.63 1307 35 2.68 224 4 1.79
CHOY 482 1 0.21 851 6 0.71 20 1 5.00
MANA 257 12 4.67 227 1 0.44 26 0 0.00
ANN1 172 5 2.91 156 10 6.41 67 0 0.00
DHA1 210 9 4.29 241 4 1.66 27 2 7.41
AMAD 104 0 0.00 529 3 0.57 92 0 0.00
BARU 94 0 0.00 150 5 3.33 7 0 0.00
PUMO 87 3 3.45 144 5 3.47 20 1 5.00
Table D-13: Hired deaths by season for selected peaks from 1950-2006