The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above BC Death Cnt Death Rate Citizenship Above BC Death Cnt Death Rate Slovakia 96 7 7.29 Czechoslovakia 62 5 8.07 Greece 107 5 4.67 Poland 91 7 7.69 Bulgaria 163 7 4.29 Bulgaria 42 3 7.14 Hungary 75 3 4.00 Slovenia 21 1 4.76 Czechoslovakia 317 11 3.47 Taiwan 43 2 4.65 Taiwan 59 2 3.39 India 374 14 3.74 Poland 869 27 3.11 Germany 113 4 3.54 Denmark 108 3 2.78 Australia 145 5 3.45 Kazakhstan 72 2 2.78 Denmark 29 1 3.45 China (non-Tibetan) 257 7 2.72 Ukraine 30 1 3.33 Australia 606 16 2.64 China (non-Tibetan) 181 6 3.32 Russia 621 16 2.58 Russia 213 6 2.82 Argentina 117 3 2.56 Hungary 39 1 2.56 India 915 22 2.40 Yugoslavia 83 2 2.41 Japan 4689 103 2.20 Brazil 42 1 2.38 Slovenia 369 8 2.17 New Zealand 134 3 2.24 W Germany 712 15 2.11 W Germany 47 1 2.13 USSR 241 5 2.08 Japan 687 14 2.04 Colombia 51 1 1.96 Chile 55 1 1.82 S Korea 1957 38 1.94 Canada 171 3 1.75 Belgium 268 5 1.87 Nepal (non-Sherpa) 116 2 1.72 Yugoslavia 438 8 1.83 UK 719 12 1.67 Ukraine 181 3 1.66 Belgium 60 1 1.67 Austria 1271 21 1.65 Austria 126 2 1.59 Finland 64 1 1.56 France 411 6 1.46 Brazil 65 1 1.54 S Korea 525 7 1.33 France 2879 42 1.46 Sweden 80 1 1.25 **All others** 622 9 1.45 Nepal (Sherpa) 119 1 0.84 Mexico 140 2 1.43 Spain 520 4 0.77 Sweden 210 3 1.43 USA 1237 9 0.73 New Zealand 452 6 1.33 Italy 285 2 0.70 Switzerland 1480 19 1.28 Switzerland 205 1 0.49 Spain 2291 29 1.27 Argentina 28 0 0.00 UK 2689 34 1.26 China (Tibetan) 107 0 0.00 Netherlands 416 5 1.20 Czech Republic 49 0 0.00 Germany 1339 16 1.20 Greece 25 0 0.00 Italy 1809 19 1.05 Indonesia 24 0 0.00 Chile 99 1 1.01 Iran 34 0 0.00 USA 3618 35 0.97 Ireland 35 0 0.00 Canada 550 5 0.91 Kazakhstan 23 0 0.00 Nepal (non-Sherpa) 367 3 0.82 Malaysia 21 0 0.00 Czech Republic 288 2 0.69 Mexico 52 0 0.00 Nepal (Sherpa) 224 1 0.45 Netherlands 75 0 0.00 China (Tibetan) 204 0 0.00 Norway 65 0 0.00 Georgia 54 0 0.00 S Africa 43 0 0.00 Indonesia 51 0 0.00 USSR 64 0 0.00 Iran 101 0 0.00 **All others** 278 0 0.00 Ireland 90 0 0.00 Norway 198 0 0.00 S Africa 61 0 0.00 Mean Death Rate 1.65 Mean Death Rate 1.71 Table D-37: Member deaths by citizenship from 1950-2006 (minimum 50 Above BC for all peaks, minimum 20 Above BC for Everest) (blue rows are above the mean death rate, black rows are below the mean death rate) 122 Death Analysis
climbers attempting difficult routes and fewer climbers partici pating as commercial clients on the safer commercial routes on Everest, Cho Oyu, and Ama Dablam. Most expeditions from eastern Europe and Russia have attempted either the 8000m peaks or more difficult routes on the 7000m peaks such as Jannu and Himalchuli; fewer have ventured to the 6000m peaks. Deaths by Gender As shown in Table and Chart D-38, men have a significantly higher death rate than women for all peaks and for the 7000ers. For the other categories, the differences in the death rates are statistically insignificant. Total Above BC Males Above BC Females Above BC Total Deaths Male Deaths Female Deaths Total Death Rate Male Death Rate Chart D-39 shows female death rates for the most popular peaks climbed by women, those peaks with 40 or more women above base camp. Four of these peaks (Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri I, Annapurna I, and Manaslu) have female death rates much higher than the mean male death rate of 1.68, but only Kangchen junga is statistically significant when comparing the female death rates to the corresponding male death rates for each of these peaks. The deaths of some very accomplished women climbers are in this group of peaks: Wanda Rutkiewicz on Kangchenjunga in 1992, and Chantal Mauduit and Ginette Harrison on Dhaulagiri I in 1998 and 1999. Tables D-40 and D-41 compare the causes of death and death classification rates for women to the rates for males. Female Death Rate All Peaks 34920 32055 2865 571 539 32 1.64 1.68 1.12 All 8000ers 20365 18831 1534 360 333 27 1.77 1.77 1.76 All 7000ers 8197 7537 660 171 169 2 2.09 2.24 0.30 All 6000ers 6358 5687 671 40 37 3 0.63 0.65 0.45 Ama Dablam 3275 2905 370 15 13 2 0.46 0.45 0.54 Cho Oyu 4920 4445 475 32 29 3 0.65 0.65 0.63 Everest 7928 7303 625 129 122 7 1.63 1.67 1.12 Table D-38: Member deaths by gender from 1950-2006 Statistical significances of death rates for men and women: All peaks: M (1 .68), F (1 .12), p= .027 8000ers: M (1.77), F (1.76), p=.938 7000ers: M (2 .24), F (0 .30), p= .001 6000ers: M (0.65), F 0.45), p=.709 Ama Dablam: M (0.45), F (0.54), p=.874 Cho Oyu: M (0.65), F (0.63), p=.804 Everest: M (1.67), F (1.12), p=.379 p-values for statistically significant differences (p
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
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For all peaks, the average team mem
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Periodically, massive storms fueled
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40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
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three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
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The results indicate that the sprin
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
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100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
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Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
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had a hard time making her own plat
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60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 126 and 127: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 148 and 149: 146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151: In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153: 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155: 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157: 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159: 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161: 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164: 5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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