The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 1.68 1.12 1.77 124 Death Analysis 1.76 Death Rates by Gender (1950-2006) 2.25 0.30 0.65 0.65 All Peaks All 8000ers All 7000ers All 6000ers Ama Dablam Cho Oyu Everest Chart D-38: Member death rates by gender from 1950-2006 (the columns outlined in black are statistically significant) 0.45 0.45 0.54 Male Death Rate Female Death Rate Female Death Rates for Popular Peaks Climbed by Women (1950-2006) 0 0 0 0 BARU 0/151 PUMO 0/105 MAKA 0/79 LHOT 0/51 0.54 AMAD 2/370 0.63 CHOY 3/475 1.12 All Peaks (Female) 32/2865 Chart D-39: Female death rates for peaks with 40+ women above base camp from 1950-2006 (the death rate is above the column bar; the death and above BC counts are below) (the columns outlined in black are statistically significant) 1.12 EVER 7/625 1.54 ANN4 1/65 1.68 All Peaks (Male) 539/ 32055 4.94 MANA 4/81 0.63 5.17 ANN1 3/58 1.67 5.88 DHA1 6/102 1.12 8.70 KANG 4/46
Cause of Death Females Males Cnt Pct Cnt Pct AMS 0 0.0 40 0 Exhaustion 2 6.3 16 2 Exposure/Frostbite 2 6.3 33 2 Fall 13 40.6 210 13 Crevasse 1 3.1 10 1 Icefall Collapse 0 0.0 3 0 Avalanche 9 28.1 161 9 Falling Rock/Ice 1 3.1 12 1 Disappearance 4 12.5 21 4 Illness (non-AMS) 0 0.0 19 0 Other 0 0.0 12 0 Unknown 0 0.0 2 0 32 100.0 539 32 AMS-related 0 0.0 50 0 Weather/Storm-related 1 3.1 43 1 Table D-40: Causes of death for all peaks from 1950-2006 Death Classification Females Males Cnt Pct Cnt Pct Death enroute BC 0 0.0 21 3.9 Death at BC 1 3.1 20 3.7 Route preparation 15 46.9 255 47.3 Ascending in Smt Bid 5 15.6 57 10.6 Descending from Smt Bid 10 31.3 159 29.5 Expedition evacuation 1 3.1 26 4.8 Other/Unknown 0 0.0 1 0.2 32 100.0 539 100.0 Table D-41: Death classification for all peaks from 1950-2006 The difference in death rates between men and women for falling is statistically insignificant (p=1.0); the difference in death rates between men and women for all deaths on summit days is also insignificant (p=.56). Only two of the women who died were commercial clients: Karine Van Dooren by falling at 6000m on Ama Dablam during route preparation, and Yasuko Namba by exposure at the South Col on Everest during descent from the summit in the tragic storm of May 1996. Deaths by Team Composition In this section, we look at death rates by expedition team size in the same manner as we did for ascent rates, that is, how do the number of members and hired personnel that went above base camp per expedition and the inter-relationship between the two affect death rates. Death Analysis 125
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
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100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
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a few brave and hardy souls are wil
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
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1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
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closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
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For all peaks, the average team mem
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Periodically, massive storms fueled
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40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
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three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
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The results indicate that the sprin
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
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40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
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100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
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Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
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Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
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had a hard time making her own plat
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60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
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900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
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60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 76 and 77: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 128 and 129: Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
Page 130 and 131: Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
Page 132 and 133: Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
Page 134 and 135: On the evening of 6th it started to
Page 136 and 137: camp at 7500m but there was nothing
Page 138 and 139: Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
Page 148 and 149: 146 Appendix A
Page 150 and 151: In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
Page 152 and 153: 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
Page 154 and 155: 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
Page 156 and 157: 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
Page 158 and 159: 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
Page 160 and 161: 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
Page 162 and 163: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
Page 164: 5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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