The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis - Himalayan ...

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70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 Chart A-34g: Average number days of successful expeditions and days to first summit for Everest from 1970-2006 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 74 Ascent Analysis Average Number of Days for Successful Expeditions and Summits for Everest (1970-2006) 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 Avg Nbr Days for Successful Expeditions (EVER) Avg Nbr Days for Summit (EVER) Trend (Avg Nbr Days for Expedition) Trend (Avg Nbr Days to Summit) Average Number of Days for All Expeditions and Successful Expeditions for All Peaks (1970-2006) 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Avg Nbr Days For All Expeditions (All Peaks) Avg Nbr Days for Successful Expeditions (All Peaks) Trend (All Expeditions) Trend (Successful Expeditions) Chart A-35: Average number days of all expeditions and successful expeditions for all peaks from 1970-2006
Chart A-35 compares the duration of all expeditions to that of successful expeditions for all peaks from 1970 to 2006. The closeness of the two lines indicates that most unsuccessful expeditions do make a serious attempt at summiting before abandoning their climbs. Expeditions that did not reach base camp or made no attempt to climb are in not included in the data since many of these had no intention of summiting, for example, those expeditions holding multiple permits and using only some of them, or arriving at base camp and discovering conditions unsuitable for climbing. Table A-36 shows climbing activity for popular peaks in Nepal (50 or more members above base camp), and for successful expeditions shows the average duration and number of days to summit, and the shortest and longest times to summit. Peak ID Peak Name Height Region Exp Cnt Mbrs Abv BC Avg Suc Exp Days Avg Smt Days Min Smt Days Max Smt Days AMAD Ama Dablam 6814 2 586 3275 13.8 10.3 1 42 ANN1 Annapurna I 8091 5 145 1037 31.4 27.7 3 62 ANN2 Annapurna II 7937 5 27 168 48.6 44.4 27 63 ANN3 Annapurna III 7555 5 31 218 30.2 26.2 16 46 ANN4 Annapurna IV 7525 5 70 560 25.2 21.5 8 64 ANNS Annapurna South 7219 5 32 194 34.6 28.3 19 38 APIM Api Main 7132 7 12 88 23.0 17.7 14 19 BARU Baruntse 7152 2 144 922 15.9 11.7 1 33 BHRI Bhrikuti 6361 5 11 74 5.6 3.8 1 8 CHAM Chamlang 7321 2 10 66 25.4 21.4 15 28 CHOL Cholatse 6440 2 14 83 19.4 13.1 2 23 CHOY Cho Oyu 8188 2 829 4920 26.2 21.1 1 52 CHRE Churen Himal East 7371 6 7 56 44.0 41.0 41 41 CHRW Churen Himal West 7371 6 12 79 28.0 24.5 4 39 DHA1 Dhaulagiri I 8167 6 233 1538 32.6 27.5 3 64 DHA2 Dhaulagiri II 7751 6 14 93 39.3 32.0 28 36 DHA4 Dhaulagiri IV 7661 6 11 110 53.0 47.0 46 48 DHAM Dhampus 6012 6 14 91 12.7 3.6 1 13 DORJ Dorje Lhakpa 6966 3 25 143 20.9 17.3 7 36 EVER Everest 8850 2 1015 7928 47.1 41.9 7 75 FANG Fang 7647 5 8 68 41.0 35.0 35 35 GAN1 Ganesh I 7422 4 8 51 37.0 34.0 34 34 GAN2 Ganesh II 7118 4 10 61 31.0 28.0 27 29 GAN4 Ganesh IV 7104 4 9 66 27.0 24.0 16 40 GANC Ganchempo 6387 3 13 53 19.3 16.0 6 28 GANG Gangapurna 7455 5 22 144 37.4 30.6 19 44 GAUR Gaurishankar 7135 2 21 142 34.0 31.7 30 34 GIMM Gimmigela Chuli 7350 1 6 66 36.7 29.7 26 37 GLAC Glacier Dome 7193 5 25 177 22.4 19.0 7 53 GURJ Gurja Himal 7193 6 8 66 24.9 20.7 9 28 GYAC Gyachung Kang 7952 2 12 90 31.0 25.0 21 32 HIME Himalchuli East 7893 4 24 189 44.2 39.0 28 49 HIML Himlung Himal 7126 5 22 154 15.3 9.2 4 17 JANU Jannu 7711 1 44 280 37.2 33.9 6 60 JONG Jongsang 7462 1 5 70 0.0 0.0 0 0 KANB Kangbachen 7902 1 5 57 39.5 30.5 21 40 KANC Kangchenjunga Central 8473 1 7 103 47.8 42.0 19 71 KANG Kangchenjunga 8586 1 97 805 43.6 38.0 19 71 KANS Kangchenjunga South 8476 1 5 79 47.5 41.3 18 72 KGUR Kang Guru 6981 5 30 172 16.9 13.7 7 36 KIRA Kirat Chuli 7362 1 6 56 0.0 0.0 0 0 KOTA Kotang 6148 1 12 85 13.0 9.5 6 13 KTEG Kangtega 6783 2 21 110 20.1 17.1 11 27 LAMJ Lamjung Himal 6983 5 8 63 31.2 28.7 19 38 LANG Langtang Lirung 7227 3 39 263 33.2 29.8 12 58 Ascent Analysis 75
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The Himalaya by the Numbers A Stati
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Contents Introduction . . . . . . .
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the first north-south traverses. Th
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in the charts, 2 or 3-period moving
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400 300 200 100 0 2000 1800 1600 14
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2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800 6
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government starting in 1997 opened
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500 450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100
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them. In fact during the late 1980s
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During the 1960s and early 1970s, e
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250 200 150 100 50 0 250 200 150 10
Page 26 and 27: 100 75 50 25 0 1970 1971 1972 1973
Page 28 and 29: a few brave and hardy souls are wil
Page 30 and 31: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 32 and 33: Charts C-7a-c show the seasonal pat
Page 34 and 35: 1000 800 600 400 200 100 80 60 40 2
Page 36 and 37: closeness of the Himalaya. Many Jap
Page 38 and 39: For all peaks, the average team mem
Page 40 and 41: Periodically, massive storms fueled
Page 42 and 43: 40 Analysis of Climbing Activity
Page 44 and 45: three most popular peaks, Ama Dabla
Page 46 and 47: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 11.7 ANN1 (121/
Page 48 and 49: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 7.7 11.7 T
Page 50 and 51: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 40 35 30 25
Page 52 and 53: The results indicate that the sprin
Page 54 and 55: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 30 25 20 15
Page 56 and 57: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 70 60 50 40
Page 58 and 59: 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 80 70 60 5
Page 60 and 61: 100 60 50 40 30 20 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 62 and 63: Ascents by Citizenship Table A-24 s
Page 64 and 65: Ascents by Gender Table and Chart A
Page 66 and 67: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Chart A-27: Asc
Page 68 and 69: had a hard time making her own plat
Page 70 and 71: 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5
Page 72 and 73: 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100
Page 74 and 75: 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 80 70 60 50 40
Page 78 and 79: Peak ID Peak Name Height Region 76
Page 80 and 81: Members have higher percentage of a
Page 82 and 83: considerable effort through deep sn
Page 84 and 85: 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 2.5
Page 86 and 87: 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 0 0 The
Page 88 and 89: Deadliest Peaks for Members The nex
Page 90 and 91: when five Austrians and their Sherp
Page 92 and 93: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 4.5 4.0 3.5
Page 94 and 95: days in 1975 (the first verified as
Page 96 and 97: Whether significant or not, the dea
Page 98 and 99: and higher spring death rates on Ma
Page 100 and 101: of an autumn 1992 Makalu II expedit
Page 102 and 103: a climb. For hired, falls were the
Page 104 and 105: Summit and the Hillary Step (9 of 2
Page 106 and 107: summer season as very few climbers
Page 108 and 109: 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 106 Death A
Page 110 and 111: 100 20 18 16 14 12 10 90 80 70 60 5
Page 112 and 113: Deaths by Falling While avalanching
Page 114 and 115: 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 16 14 12 10
Page 116 and 117: Time of Day All Peaks 6000ers All F
Page 118 and 119: Deaths by Physiological Causes Phys
Page 120 and 121: Deaths by Age Groups Table and Char
Page 122 and 123: Deaths by Expedition Years Chart D-
Page 124 and 125: All Peaks Everest Citizenship Above
Page 126 and 127:
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0 10.0 9.0 8.
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Table and Chart D-42 below show mem
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Table and Chart D-44 below show mem
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Everest, Spring 1996 A total of eig
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On the evening of 6th it started to
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camp at 7500m but there was nothing
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Peak ID Peak Name 136 Appendix A Al
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Page 144 and 145:
Page 146 and 147:
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146 Appendix A
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In Chart D-4, the sample sizes are
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90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32.2 2
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45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 11.9 4.
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6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1.16 0.43 0.13 BARU (
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16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 2.42 1.80 700
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30 25 20 15 10 5 0 1.29 0.09 0.41 1
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8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 3.04 0.0 LSHR (0/
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5.0 4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0
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